Whites:
2004 Dom. Pepière, Muscadet Clos des Briords VV:
Day one: citrus, oyster shell and a hint of pickle juice on the nose; crisp and bright with flavors that follow the nose; some depth, intense; very long. More closed than expected but still good stuff.
Day two: so much better; clean, balanced and precise with crystalline flavors, a somewhat feminine delivery but great length. Falls a heartbeat short of the ’05 Pepière, Granite de Clisson, but just.
$13 on release and 12% alcohol. Hold.
Reds:
2001 Sella, Lessona;
You know how when Robin Hood split the arrow that was already in the bull’s eye? Well, this is that much on target. Precise, detailed, graceful and complex – I have had bottles of this that have shown much less but this one is everything one could ask for. Slightly less clear on day two but still excellent. I bought a bunch of this on sale and I think I will put Astor on my Christmas card list – what a gift.
Drink.
1999 Gilles Robin, Crozes-Hermitage Cuvée Albéric Bouvet:
My last 750 (one magnum remains) of a wine that I have probably had more of than any other; there is a little brett here but nothing that puts me off; other than that, the most complete, complex and engaging syrah I’ve ever had. The nose is packed with nuance; in the mouth it is fresh yet has developed secondary character; and the length is a lovely and enduring echo. Fully resolved, balanced, so many different combinations of flavors that it is hard to keep track and still, that elegant, varietal essence of deliciousness that I can only hope that one day I achieve in my own syrahs. I credit Joe Dressner with suggesting one go long on this; I am pleased that I did, and I hope that I find something that comes close in the future. 13% alcohol, about $9 delivered (on sale) and as good a bottle of red wine as I have ever enjoyed. Drink.
Best, Jim
