This was my first wine dinner at Poole's Diner in downtown Raleigh, the restaurant owned by Ashley Christensen who used to be chef at Enoteca Vin. She was assisted with the wines by Fern who works at Seaboard Wine and Tasting Bar. We were not given a printed menu or wine list so my notes are somewhat incomplete. This was Tuesday night last week right after the Spanish wine and truffles tasting in Fayetteville on Monday. Both events had a popcorn snack. This time the popcorn was made with bacon fat rather than truffle oil and had a nice smoky flavor.
We were greeted with a 2007 HILLINGER SECCO (Pinot Noir Sparkling Rose') from Burgenland, Austria in Champagne flutes. Many streams of small tight bubbles. Pale salmon color. Nice rose petal/partly ripe strawberry flavor. The nose was harder to describe. Well liked by everyone I would say. The Seaboard website lists the 2006 Hillinger Secco at $18.99 and the magnum size on sale at $27.75. Would be great for wedding receptions.
After Secco at the bar, we took our seats at the tables. The first course had a terrine from parts of the pig's head cooked slowly and with a natural gelatin from the liquid juice, orange zest, fresh thyme. Served with rhubarb, fried green tomatoes and a Dijon vinaigrette. The hog was a crossbreed of two types of pigs--didn't catch the names and free range. With this was had a German white Pinot Noir--no skin contact but it did still taste identifiably like Pinot Noir. It was the 2007 ANHEUSER BLANC DE NOIR Pinot Noir priced at $14.99 retail. From the Nahe region.
The Alto Adige region of Italy provided the next Pinot Noir--or Pinot Nero--St. Daniel Reserva or something like that. Appeared scarlet in the dim lighting. A little tart but rich in flavor, and viscous on the sides of the glass. We had this with emulsified sausage from the pig shoulder and loin and a bit of side fat to make a very smooth texture. Prepared fresh in brine rather than cured. With black currant and green cabbage, shredded Yukon Gold potatoes and juice from shanks braised three times.
The next course was accompanied with beer rather than wine: DOGFISH HEAD BREWERY RED AND WHITE from Delaware. "This is a malt beverage brewed with Coriander, Orange Peel and juice from the Pinot Noir grape! Aged in old Oregon Pinot Noir barrels this baby packs a little wallop at 10% ABV." We enjoyed Ashley's version of a pulled pork sandwich on buttermilk and cornmeal brioche. Salt-cured pork with garlic, paprika, thyme. Slow-cooked over oak and black cherry wood. Cider vinegar barbecue sauce.
We next had three Pinot Noirs to go with three preparations of bacon.
We had a 2007 CRISOM MT. JEFFERSON CUVEE Pinot Noir from Oregon, a 2005 BERTAGNA LA CROIX BLANCHE from Burgundy, and a 2005 TALISMAN, ADASTRA VINEYARD, Los Carneros, CA.
The Bertagna Burgundy was viscoUs with the flavor of delicate red berries and drinking smoothly. It got favorable attention at my table but my favorite was the Talisman. Only 264 cases produced and Tony Soter's last year working with the Talisman wines. Spicy, dark cherries and dark berries. Maybe a touch of blueberry also. Well balanced, integrated, elegant and also viscous. Organically farmed vineyard. 93 Points for the wine from the Pinot Report which mentions stewed cherries, herbs, minerals, complexity and structure and balance. $42 from the winery and recommended for pairing with savory dishes.
I didn't get down the descriptions of the three bacon preparations and didn't get down much in my mouth and stomach either as I was full before getting halfway through the pulled pork sandwich. I did note that one bacon was cured in black tea and one was cured with chipotle and fennel. Lentil, chocolate, mushrooms, olive oil and cracked pepper came into it somewhere too. And two small sprigs of sauteed ramps.
Fun evening.
Talisman Cellars, with Scott and Marta Rich, is one to watch.