RRSeminar: RhoneBlends/Traditionalists vs Mavericks

The second of the two RR Seminars that afternoon was on Rhone Blends. It was billed as
TheTraditionalists (using classic G/S/M varieties) vs. TheMavericks (using other/non-Rhone
grapes in the blend). The wines presented were:
Traditionalists:
1. TerryCulton/AdelaidaCllrs Version (38% Mourv, 28% Syrah, 22% Grenache, 7% Counoise,
5% Cinsault) '06 $30
2. JaySoloff/DeLilleCllrs DoyenneMetier RedMountain (50% Grenache, 25% Syrah, 25% Grenache) '06
$35
3. LarryShaffer/Epiphany Revelation (62% Syrah, 30% Grenache, 8% PS) '06 $35
4. KentMizuguchi/ZacaMesa Z-Cuvee (59% Grenache, 23% Mourvedre, 15% Syrah, 3% Cinsault) '06 $20
Mavericks:
5. MichaelYoung/L'Aventure EstateCuvee (50% Syrah, 45% Cab, 5% PetiteVerdot) '06 $85
6. NeilCollins/LoneMadrone TheWill (Grenache, PS, Zin) '07 $35
7. LiseCiolino/Montemaggiore Nobile (60% Cab, 40% Syrah) '05 $45
8. KerryDamskey/Palmeri '04 $53

I didn't take any detailed notes in this seminar, just jotted down some general impressions.
These wines were far less interesting than the Syrahs in the previous seminar. The Mavericks
did not make an especially good case for non-traditional blends. Those that had Cabernet in
them (not one of my favorite grapes), I thought the Cabernet tended to dominate the blend and,
try as I might, I couldn't find much that the Rhones contributed. The LoneMadrone was the only
one of these that I particularly liked. The Palmeri and l'Aventure were way overpriced for
what they were.
The traditionals were a much more interesting bunch. The Epiphany was my clear favorite,
probably because it spoke mostly of Syrah. The DeLille was not far behind, probably because
it spoke strongly of WashState and I found WashState Grenache, in general, more interesting than
Calif Grenache. The Adelaida was OK and the ZacaMesa pretty dull. They have a higher-end
Rhone blend (about $40) that I find much more interesting.
So.... I've long felt that Calif Rhone blends seldom excite me near as much as single varietals.
With few exceptions. Probably TablasCreek is the big exception. When you mix 3 colors together,
you can get a painting that is just a gray panel. Or you can get a Picasso. I just don't see
many Picassos in the Rhone blends; they more often seem more like a gray panel. I just don't
often see the complexity or terroir or whatever in the blends.
So....in my most rabble-rousing voice, I asked the panelists: "Do you ever see, in making up
your blends, a synergistic effect...where the blend is far superior to the parts that go into
it"? As I pretty much expected, they proclaimed that they do, though no examples were cited.
So, again in my usual rabble-rousing voice, I asked: "Then why do most wineries sell their GSM
blends for a lower price than their Syrah"?? Got no real good answer to that question either.
So.... this Seminar didn't really change my opinion of GSM blends much. I find the blends
far less interesting, in most cases, than the single varietals from a wnry. I think many wineries
probably use their GSM blends as a dumping ground to use leftover barrels that didn't make the
cut for their single varietals. For some wineries, they wish to be known as a Rhone specialist
and, since Chateauneuf is a (occasionally) great Rhone wine that can often command big $$'s;
they feel it necessary to make a GSM blend. And then there are a few, like TablasCreek, who are
convinced that the blend is better than the sum of the parts. Whatever the take, I too often
see gray instead of a Picasso in these Rhone blends.

For some wineries, they wish to be known as a Rhone specialist
and, since Chateauneuf is a (occasionally) great Rhone wine that can often command big $$'s;
they feel it necessary to make a GSM blend. And then there are a few, like TablasCreek, who are
convinced that the blend is better than the sum of the parts. Whatever the take, I too often
see gray instead of a Picasso in these Rhone blends.

Interesting comment. I very rarely buy New World GSM blends (apart from Tablas Creek's), but I have a continuing fondness for the wines of the S Rhone. As I understand it, the practice of blending in the S of France (S Rhone, Bdx) arose to help cover up the deficiencies of any one variety. This argument rests on the idea that the finest expression of a particular grape lies at the very extreme of its growing range, which in Europe is typically its northernmost location. So, Syrah is at its pinnacle in the N Rhone, especially in Cote-Rotie; Pinot Noir in the Cote D'Or; Riesling in the Mosel Valley; Mourvedre in Bandol; Chardonnay in Chablis. In that view, the Syrah of CdP lacks the acidity and structure of the Syrah of the N Rhone, so Mourvedre is added to provide the extra structure and Grenache is there for its fruit and tolerance of drought and heat. Likewise, in Bdx the Merlot is in the blend for its earlier ripening and Cab F for its structure (why Petit Verdot is there is anyone's guess ) So, in CA perhaps GSM blending should be done in those locations that can't provide quality varietal wines, like maybe the Central Valley or Lodi?

Mark Lipton

Interesting comment. I very rarely buy New World GSM blends (apart from Tablas Creek's), but I have a continuing fondness for the wines of the S Rhone. As I understand it, the practice of blending in the S of France (S Rhone, Bdx) arose to help cover up the deficiencies of any one variety. This argument rests on the idea that the finest expression of a particular grape lies at the very extreme of its growing range, which in Europe is typically its northernmost location. So, Syrah is at its pinnacle in the N Rhone, especially in Cote-Rotie; Pinot Noir in the Cote D'Or; Riesling in the Mosel Valley; Mourvedre in Bandol; Chardonnay in Chablis. In that view, the Syrah of CdP lacks the acidity and structure of the Syrah of the N Rhone, so Mourvedre is added to provide the extra structure and Grenache is there for its fruit and tolerance of drought and heat. Likewise, in Bdx the Merlot is in the blend for its earlier ripening and Cab F for its structure (why Petit Verdot is there is anyone's guess ) So, in CA perhaps GSM blending should be done in those locations that can't provide quality varietal wines, like maybe the Central Valley or Lodi?
Mark Lipton

Mark,
Probably for what you say for CdP is true. Although I've had some terrific SRhone Syrahs, the feeling is that it doesn't do well there as a single-varietal. I've also had a few SRhone pure Grenache (Rayas) that have been terrific, I think the conventional wisdom is that Grenache needs other varieties to flesh it out.
My comments were a bit of a troll in that I've come to the conclusion that I'm not a big CdP fan and the Calif Grenaches I like are not all that plentiful, but more so than CdP.
As far as "can't provide quality varietal wines, like maybe ... Lodi"... I guess I would quibble w/ that. Though it's a pretty hot growing area there, there are a few varietal wines that I would classify as very/very good...though maybe not great.
Tom

Likewise, in Bdx the Merlot is in the blend for its earlier ripening and Cab F for its structure (why Petit Verdot is there is anyone's guess )

Sorry for the thread drift but I thought that in the Medoc at least that the CF was there for aromatics as the CS provided sufficient structure. While the Merlot is there for the earlier ripening, I thought it also fleshed out the middle. The Petit Verdot use to be for color predominately but it must add more than that as I thought I read that as the vintages have become warmer and the PV ripens more consistently more PV is being planted and added to the blends.

Likewise, in Bdx the Merlot is in the blend for its earlier ripening and Cab F for its structure (why Petit Verdot is there is anyone's guess )

Sorry for the thread drift but I thought that in the Medoc at least that the CF was there for aromatics as the CS provided sufficient structure. While the Merlot is there for the earlier ripening, I thought it also fleshed out the middle. The Petit Verdot use to be for color predominately but it must add more than that as I thought I read that as the vintages have become warmer and the PV ripens more consistently more PV is being planted and added to the blends.

I wouldn't doubt that you are correct on all points, Brian. Frankly, after the exposition on GSM blends, I had exhausted myself

Mark Lipton

As far as "can't provide quality varietal wines, like maybe ... Lodi"... I guess I would quibble w/ that. Though it's a pretty hot growing area there, there are a few varietal wines that I would classify as very/very good...though maybe not great.

Well, my comment was a bit of a troll, too, Tom. I've had a number of Zins from Lodi that I wouldn't kick out of bed for eating crackers. I just can't get John Fogerty's voice out of my head, though.

Mark Lipton

[Added in Edit: I wonder if Thomas Fogarty has ever thought of making a wine from Lodi grapes and calling it "Stuck in Lodi"? He'd probably get sued, I suppose]

This argument rests on the idea that the finest expression of a particular grape lies at the very extreme of its growing range, which in Europe is typically its northernmost location. So, Syrah is at its pinnacle in the N Rhone, especially in Cote-Rotie; Pinot Noir in the Cote D'Or;n

But wouldn't that make Spatburgunder the finest expression of PN? Even in France, isn't Alsace a bit cooler (and maybe a tiny bit more northern) overall than the Cote d'Or?

Sorry for thread drift, interesting comments Tom

This argument rests on the idea that the finest expression of a particular grape lies at the very extreme of its growing range, which in Europe is typically its northernmost location. So, Syrah is at its pinnacle in the N Rhone, especially in Cote-Rotie; Pinot Noir in the Cote D'Or;n

But wouldn't that make Spatburgunder the finest expression of PN? Even in France, isn't Alsace a bit cooler (and maybe a tiny bit more northern) overall than the Cote d'Or?

Well, perhaps those locations represent the areas just beyond the very extreme of the growing range, Dale, at least for the moment.

Mark Lipton

So....in my most rabble-rousing voice, I asked the panelists: "Do you ever see, in making up
your blends, a synergistic effect...where the blend is far superior to the parts that go into
it"? As I pretty much expected, they proclaimed that they do, though no examples were cited.
So, again in my usual rabble-rousing voice, I asked: "Then why do most wineries sell their GSM
blends for a lower price than their Syrah"?? Got no real good answer to that question either.

...................

I think many wineries
probably use their GSM blends as a dumping ground to use leftover barrels that didn't make the
cut for their single varietals.

I do have to wonder wrt to the synergy and price, if product is driving price or price is driving product. Does the Syrah command a higher price because it is better than the blend or is it because Syrah will fetch a higher price on the market that the best barrels are put into the Syrah thus making it a better wine. If the better barrels of Syrah were used in the blend would the blend be better and the synergy more apparent? How does the Syrah in the blend stack up with the Syrah bottled seperately. Without being able to taste the components and the blend together its hard to know.

Mark wrote:
This argument rests on the idea that the finest expression of a particular grape lies at the very extreme of its growing range, which in Europe is typically its northernmost location. So, Syrah is at its pinnacle in the N Rhone, especially in Cote-Rotie; Pinot Noir in the Cote D'Or; Riesling in the Mosel Valley; Mourvedre in Bandol; Chardonnay in Chablis.

I too find this argument very interesting, but surely one can find a site or plot of land north or south of this so-called “ideal location” with similar climatic and soil conditions. Whether it would be at a slightly lower elevation or higher elevation, different slope aspect (more sun, little less sun), maritime or continental influence, nearby large body of water or river, might just fit the bill just nicely for a particular grape variety.
As far as matching grape varieties with the best suitable site, France, Italy and Germany have been cultivating grapes a lot longer than almost everyone else. The “New World” wine regions are still in their “infant stage” and just grasping and understanding (not fully) the whole idea of “matching to the grape variety with site”. In the last 20 years there has been a great deal of replanting and re-organization of California vineyards. Everyone seems to be more concerned about the actual clone not just variety. There is more experimentation in the vineyards than the cellars.
The “Old World” wine regions grasp and hold tightly to their traditions (I see this starting to change however). Take CdP wines, traditional 14 different grape varieties, both black (red) and white grapes, could be blended together. I don’t believe that the regulatory body for the AOC defines the composition percentages. IMHO the darker and richer colored CdP very likely have a higher percentage of Syrah in them, and most likely I believe the majority of CdP (that I see anyway) are composed of 3 or 4 of the 14 allowed grape varieties. Surely within the S Rhone region “pockets” or “certain sites” could be well suited for growing “premium” Syrah. Because France has vineyards that are far more “established”, depending upon the health state of the vineyard and the quality of wine coming out of it now, replanting or re-organizing the vineyard might not be so feasible.

Salute