Whites:
2005 Daniel Dampt, Chablis Côte de Léchet:
Day one: quiet but typical Chablis nose; layered, exotic fruit flavors that are rich, deep and honeyed, steely, crisp and long. Seems somewhat closed but what is showing is absolutely delicious and characteristic of this vineyard.
Day two: more open aromatically but much more mineral driven – an almost salty element in the mouth, good fruit, intensity and concentration; considerable length. A superb wine from a producer that uses only stainless, hand harvests, keeps yields low and is aggressive with triage. This has the stuffing to age, its 13% alcohol, $30 (including shipping) and has a quality to price ratio that is becoming difficult to find in Chablis. Drink or hold.
1999 Nigl, Riesling Hochäcker:
Way too fresh to be a decade old; smells of tangerine skin, rainwater and citrus; its dry, textural, intensely flavored to echo the nose and has a tang to it that I find often in Austrian riesling; exceedingly long and that tang is reiterated on the finish which has a slight pithy/resin quality to it. A very good wine that is still youthful, concentrated and balanced but shows an integration borne of its years. 13% alcohol and about $18, back in the day.
Reds:
2000 Belle Pente, Pinot Noir Estate Reserve:
Day one: tight, big, disjointed with some alcohol showing (14.3%).
Day two: more approachable with spice and dark fruit smells and flavors, pretty big in the mouth, alcoholic but not hot; moderate length. I think this is just a little too much for me. Solid wine but not in a style that I am partial to.
Day three: bordering on raisined and coming apart.
Drink.
1999 Michel Lafarge, Volnay Vendages Sélectionnées:
Day one: still a bit tannic but this wine is so much better than three years ago (the last time I tried it); classic fresh cherry, beet, earth, stone nose; much the same in the mouth with some complexity, good intensity and a profile that is both hard-edged and approachable at the same time. As with all really good wines, there is a paradox (or two) in this; minerality but clear fruit; firm but open; strongly flavored but with finesse. These are the bottles we hope to find when we go back into the cellar after a decade and pull out Burgundy. With grilled chicken, rice with black pepper sauce and sautéed brussel sprouts, beyond words.
Day two: this has wound back in upon itself – its all about structure and tannin now, although, it comes alive accompanying pasta with tomato/almond sauce.
13% alcohol and about $35 on release.
Hold.
2002 Michaud, Brouilly Prestige de Vielles Vignes:
Day one: bright, pure gamay with an earthy/granite streak and considerable depth; aromatic, graceful and nicely integrated. Often times this bottling can be a bit tannic but this is pretty smooth.
Day two: even better, by magnitudes; there is finesse and a purity not evident yesterday; there’s real complexity and still a smooth texture; and, above all, there is this deft balance – as though all parts were meant to fit together just so. This is all a red wine I ever need and it pleases me no end to have more than a few bottles left in the cellar. Real old vine (greater than 85 years) quality. 13% alcohol and a bargain at $20.
Best, Jim