WTN: Dão, Alsatian PN, Champagne

2005 Quinta de Cabriz Dão Reserva [40 percent Touriga Nacional, 40 percent Alfrocheiro, 20 percent Tinto Roriz] (Dão DOC, Beiras, north central Portugal) cork closure, 13.5% - imported to USA by Aidil Wines, Newark, New Jersey – appears dark crimson with a bit of a halo, smell nice earthy, dark with nice depth, bare smoke a bit of dust, mouthfeel smooth and light with only the slightest hint of grit, taste juicy, superjuicy on day one, dripping fruit, delicious, delicious fruit, slightly dry, not sweet, earthy and dusty on finish, outstandingly delicious on day one with great structure, by day two the fruit has faded toward the tart and the fine grain of the structure underneath shines through, this might be interesting to age for few years if I had some more, by day three the structure is still solid but the rest has left the building, delicious wine now for the $20 I paid, it'd be interesting to revisit in a few years as well.

2007 Gresser Alsace Pinot Noir Brandhof (Andlau, Alsace AOC, eastern France) cork closure, 13% - imported to USA by Martine's Wines, Novato, California – appears pale cranberry, smell reserved berry, lumbering and playful, more freshness and elements of natural bushes with berries, nice nose, with air, more soil, taste acid upfront, delicious berries and dark earth, scrumptious and juicy, spicy and dark, tangy and quite mineral, delicious, a phenomenal food wine that paired with brussel sprouts and tofu with garlic and dijon mustard, believe it or not, a wine for the table, lovely earthy wine. Still excellent acid and more obvious minerals on day two. I wish it were a few bucks cheaper, but $20 is doable for a wine as versatile on the table as this.

N.V. Bernard Ledru Champagne Tradition Brut 1er Cru (Bouzy, Champagne AOC, northern France) mushroom cork with wire cage, 12% - imported to USA by Valley View Wine Sales, Glen Ellen, California – smells sharp and fresh with light yeast, bit mineral on nose as it opens up, mouthfeel tight with firm bubbles, finely tuned foaminess, tasted crisp pointed green apples, light pastry shell, delicious very fresh wonderful apple pie, what can I say? this was a delicious classic finely tuned champagne that sung with both pumpkin-coconut soup and a series of cheeses, a beautiful food wine that still had plenty of verve on day two, a wine that makes me wonder why I don't have a champagne every week! Worth the $40 I paid and more.

[David M. Bueker]

Wait a minute, an Alsatian Pinot Noir that doesn't smell like boiled hot dogs? What is the world coming to?

N.V. Bernard Ledru Champagne Tradition Brut 1er Cru (Bouzy, Champagne AOC, northern France)

I am partial to anything from a town named Bouzy.

Thanks for putting the ~ on Dão.

And, last but not least, thanks for the excellent notes.

N.V. Bernard Ledru Champagne Tradition Brut 1er Cru (Bouzy, Champagne AOC, northern France) mushroom cork with wire cage, 12% - imported to USA by Valley View Wine Sales, Glen Ellen, California – smells sharp and fresh with light yeast, bit mineral on nose as it opens up, mouthfeel tight with firm bubbles, finely tuned foaminess, tasted crisp pointed green apples, light pastry shell, delicious very fresh wonderful apple pie, what can I say? this was a delicious classic finely tuned champagne that sung with both pumpkin-coconut soup and a series of cheeses, a beautiful food wine that still had plenty of verve on day two, a wine that makes me wonder why I don't have a champagne every week! Worth the $40 I paid and more.

Some of the still red Coteaux Champenois from Bouzy and Ambonnay (Pinot noir) are also truly delicious. Parker seems to deny their existence. Was your brut a Blanc de Noirs?

Thanks for the note on the Dao; I bought a bottle that I haven't got around to trying yet. It must be expensive to ship it across the country - it runs $13-$15 in this area (near Newark, NJ).

N.V. Bernard Ledru Champagne Tradition Brut 1er Cru (Bouzy, Champagne AOC, northern France)

Some of the still red Coteaux Champenois from Bouzy and Ambonnay (Pinot noir) are also truly delicious. Parker seems to deny their existence. Was your brut a Blanc de Noirs?

Nope. I am told Pinot Meunier is prominent in the blend, but it is not a Blanc de Noirs. Trying some of the still reds from the area would indeed offer a fascinating experience . . . but I've never seen one in the US.

Thanks for the note on the Dao; I bought a bottle that I haven't got around to trying yet. It must be expensive to ship it across the country - it runs $13-$15 in this area (near Newark, NJ).

The Cabriz Reserva for $13 is a whole lotta wine for the money. I hope you enjoy your bottle as much as I did. Even at $20, I feel it holds its weight--though I wouldn't suggest leaving some for the next day right now--most delicious to consume it all the first day.

I imagine the cost difference has to do more with distribution channels than with transportation costs . . . I'm not even sure how much it costs in general in these parts as this is the first time I've encountered it. But Portuguese wines are offering some memorable experiences for me recently . . .