2005 Jean Foillard Morgon Cote du Py 13.0%
Like a genie, once the cro magnon wax seal is out of the way, out come the lovely church incense aromas that seem to be a hallmark of mature Gang of Five Morgons. Darker than usual for Bojo, closer to garnet than strawberry, with ripe but not jammy cherry. The fruit is framed, like a halo, by those church spice aromas, evocative of swinging pendular movements by orthodox bearded monks. Zingy mouth feel, thanks to some residual secondary fermentation (over time, the petillance fades). Good acidity, with matching sweetness, and a rich and elegant nose of tar and ripe fruit. Free of CO2, the aroma becomes increasingly captivating; could sniff sauvage finesse like this all night long! This 3.14 is in a higher category for Beaujolais, only the slight petillance preventing it from matching the 04 Thevenets opened in the last six months. Most importantly, it feels like honest, uncompromising wine, one whose secondary fermentation is excusable as an unfortunate byproduct of primary integrity; the solitary flaw feels unobtrusive, like the missing limb of an ancient marble statue.