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WTN: Drinking Nebbiolo and Loving It

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Diane (Long Island)

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WTN: Drinking Nebbiolo and Loving It

by Diane (Long Island) » Thu Mar 26, 2009 11:42 am

A second in a series of Wine Collector's Dinners at 11 Madison Park in NYC was the food and wine of Piemonte. Chef Daniel Humm cooks and we bring the bottles.

We started with a 2001 Pio Cesare Cortese di Gavi along with a platter of salumi. The Gavi was light, a little sweet with pineapple, and refreshing. We continued the white with an assortment of salads and Parmigiano Reggiano, and then quickly poured the first of the reds.
1982 Borgogno Barolo - A very pretty nose of leather, herbs, dried flowers. The palate showed orange rind, raspberry, and roses and subtle spices. Light tannins that lead to a long, floral finish making this lovely and delicious. We poured a 1989 Borgogno Barolo that was sadly corked. :x With the next course of polenta with both both braised rabbit with olives, and chicken livers sauteed with porcini mushrooms, we poured a 1993 Giacosa Barbaresco Santo Stefano. When the bottle was first opened, it was an assault of old leather. The color was surprisingly dark, and the leathery aroma softened with time and showed violets and tea. The palate was dusty and dry and showed some strawberry. A wine for a true Nebbiolo lover - mature, and intriguing. We had to have the 1997 Giacosa Barbaresco Asili alongside the 1993 and, of course, it showed the nature of the vintage, although the color wasn't quite as dark as the previous Giacosa. A nose filled with herbs and roses. Like the 1993, a leathery palate showing strawberries, but fresher tasting, complex, and has the structure to continue aging. Back to Barolo with the next course of pig with apple and red cabbage agro dolce. 1990 Aldo Conterno Bricco Bussia Vigna Colonnello - Very dark with a nose of milk chocolate and tar. Crisp and fresh, there were sweet cherries and roses. Youthful, tannic with lots of power and very compelling. Last up was a baby, 1997 Roberto Voerzio Cerequio - huge aromatic nose of black cherry and spices. Lots of energy and assertive with an attack of dark fruit and chocolate. However, it didn't carry through and the finish wasn't well developed. There were other bottles making appearances at our table, such as a 1974 Oddero , 1978 Aldo Conterno Bricco Bussia and a 1998 Giacosa Santo Stefano Riserva that turned this dinner into another embarrassment of riches.

Next Wine Collector's Dinner will be Riesling - can't wait!
Last edited by Diane (Long Island) on Fri Mar 27, 2009 3:11 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Ian Sutton

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Re: WTN: Drinking Nebbiolo and Loving It

by Ian Sutton » Thu Mar 26, 2009 11:47 am

A fine line-up of wines there and good to see a wide variety of vintages and even a couple of middling vintages amongst more feted vintages.

ta for the notes!

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Diane (Long Island)

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Re: WTN: Drinking Nebbiolo and Loving It

by Diane (Long Island) » Thu Mar 26, 2009 11:54 am

In the case of 1993, it was definitely producer over vintage. Not a disappointment in our lineup.
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Re: WTN: Drinking Nebbiolo and Loving It

by Dale Williams » Thu Mar 26, 2009 12:30 pm

I think '93 is a pretty solid vintage, albeit not a long aging one. I regret that I didn't buy more, I can't remember one from a good producer I didn't enjoy.
Thanks for nice notes, I'm jealous!
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Re: WTN: Drinking Nebbiolo and Loving It

by Jenise » Thu Mar 26, 2009 12:30 pm

I love being assaulted by old leather! Great notes, thanks.
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Re: WTN: Drinking Nebbiolo and Loving It

by David M. Bueker » Thu Mar 26, 2009 12:31 pm

Jenise wrote:I love being assaulted by old leather!


TMI. :shock:
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Re: WTN: Drinking Nebbiolo and Loving It

by Dave Erickson » Fri Mar 27, 2009 8:27 am

How to drink nebbiolo without breaking the bank: G.D. Vaira Langhe Rosso, 85% nebbiolo, the balance vespolina and croatina, $14.99.
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Diane (Long Island)

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Re: WTN: Drinking Nebbiolo and Loving It

by Diane (Long Island) » Fri Mar 27, 2009 8:59 am

David M. Bueker wrote:
Jenise wrote:I love being assaulted by old leather!


TMI. :shock:


Very funny! :)
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Re: WTN: Drinking Nebbiolo and Loving It

by Diane (Long Island) » Fri Mar 27, 2009 9:01 am

Dave Erickson wrote:How to drink nebbiolo without breaking the bank: G.D. Vaira Langhe Rosso, 85% nebbiolo, the balance vespolina and croatina, $14.99.



I visited Vajra in November and tasted their roster and everything was high quality. Good find.
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Re: WTN: Drinking Nebbiolo and Loving It

by Oliver McCrum » Fri Mar 27, 2009 12:59 pm

Dave Erickson wrote:How to drink nebbiolo without breaking the bank: G.D. Vaira Langhe Rosso, 85% nebbiolo, the balance vespolina and croatina, $14.99.


Dave, I love Vajra's wines, but are you sure that one includes Vespolina and Croatina? I've never seen those varieties in the Langhe.
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Re: WTN: Drinking Nebbiolo and Loving It

by Dave Erickson » Sat Mar 28, 2009 8:33 am

Oliver McCrum wrote:
Dave Erickson wrote:Dave, I love Vajra's wines, but are you sure that one includes Vespolina and Croatina? I've never seen those varieties in the Langhe.


Good point, Oliver. I don't know. Previous vintages have used barbera and dolcetto. I'm just going by the spec sheet....I'm not terribly concerned. It's not like they put gaglioppo in it, or anything... :mrgreen:
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Re: WTN: Drinking Nebbiolo and Loving It

by Rahsaan » Sat Mar 28, 2009 6:59 pm

Diane (Long Island) wrote:A second in a series of Wine Collector's Dinners at 11 Madison Park in NYC...Chef Daniel Humm cooks and we bring the bottles.


Does that mean the meal is free?

How is this different from any regular night where you might bring wine to dinner?

Is it because the special menu is cetered to the particular kind of wine? Does everyone in the restaurant have to have the special menu?
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Diane (Long Island)

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Re: WTN: Drinking Nebbiolo and Loving It

by Diane (Long Island) » Sat Mar 28, 2009 8:16 pm

Rahsaan wrote:
Diane (Long Island) wrote:A second in a series of Wine Collector's Dinners at 11 Madison Park in NYC...Chef Daniel Humm cooks and we bring the bottles.


Does that mean the meal is free?

How is this different from any regular night where you might bring wine to dinner?

Is it because the special menu is cetered to the particular kind of wine? Does everyone in the restaurant have to have the special menu?


1) No

2) It is by special invitation. A friend of mine is the contact and she invited a few of her friends to attend. Dinner is served family style.

3) We are given a region for the wine, and the meal is focused on that region. It is held in their private upstairs room, and does not involve the rest of the restaurant.
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Re: WTN: Drinking Nebbiolo and Loving It

by Rahsaan » Sun Mar 29, 2009 12:10 am

Diane (Long Island) wrote:1) No

2) It is by special invitation. A friend of mine is the contact and she invited a few of her friends to attend. Dinner is served family style.

3) We are given a region for the wine, and the meal is focused on that region. It is held in their private upstairs room, and does not involve the rest of the restaurant.


Sounds like a fun time!
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Re: WTN: Drinking Nebbiolo and Loving It

by Dave Erickson » Wed Apr 01, 2009 9:26 pm

Oliver McCrum wrote:
Dave Erickson wrote:How to drink nebbiolo without breaking the bank: G.D. Vaira Langhe Rosso, 85% nebbiolo, the balance vespolina and croatina, $14.99.


Dave, I love Vajra's wines, but are you sure that one includes Vespolina and Croatina? I've never seen those varieties in the Langhe.


Well, extra-good call, Oliver. My information was no good, because my source didn't know what he was talking about. The new Vajra ('07) is about 50% nebbiolo, with the balance a blend of barbera, dolcetto, and a little bit of freisa.

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