by Dale Williams » Mon Mar 16, 2009 12:17 pm
Jon and Liz Peterson were in town, Ramon and I met them at Cipolla Rosso, a new Tuscan place near the 59th st bridge. Very nice people, a fun evening, good food,and the wines all showed well.
We opened with the 2007 Reinhold Haart Piesporter Goldtropfchen Riesling Kabinett. I recently subscribed to the Mosel Fine Wines newsletter (free, highly recommended, moselfinewines.com ) where they listed the better producers in what they regard as the "Grand Cru Hors Classe" vineyards, Haart was at the top of the PG. Even though "just" a Kabinett, this supports that claim. Sweet clementines and nectarines, vibrant acids, long slatey finish. Delicious. A-
We had an assortment of appetizers: eggplant parmigiana, wild boar sausages with white beans, calamari, vegetables with a light tempura- like batter, and asparagus wrapped in proscuitto and also fried with that batter. All very tasty.
1985 Leoville Poyferre
Fully mature, sweet black and red currant fruit, some leather. Round and easy. B/B+
1978 Trotanoy
There's some barnyard on the nose, but the brett isn't overwhelming and actually integrates a bit with time. Red plusher fruits, some coffee and earth. A little browning on edges,but not OTH, and actually holds up nicely over a couple hours. B+/B
We got a couple of pasta dishes, I liked the pheasant, but really loved the fresh pappardelle with wild boar ragu. Then a nice steak with arugula. We finished with some cheeses.
1989 Leoville Barton
I've always liked this wine, but this bottle showed best I've had, though still young. Still some tannins,but they are fine and not harsh. Moderate acids add to the structure and seem to brighten the fruit. Good classic cassis notes, some little hints of herb and earth, excellent length. WOTN A-
1994 L'Evangile
I thought this also showed quite well. Pomerol certainly seems to be the appellation for '94, this was structured but without the hardness a lot of '94s have. Nice dark plum fruit, some cigarbox, I quite enjoyed. B+
1995 Montevertine "Il Sodaccio"
This was my backup in case Trot was off, but I didn't feel like lugging it back home (though I did with leftover half!). I think I liked this more than table, it struck me as young but lovely. Black cherries, spice, bright acids. Perfect Chianti (no matter what label says). I have one magnum of this remaining, absolutely no hurry. A-/B+
Really fun night. We got really lucky with the wines! I hope Jon and Liz come back to NY soon, nice people, and I'd like Betsy to meet. Nice night for a walk back to Grand Central, feeling groovy.
Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.