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WTN: Over the hill wines with lunch

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Jay Labrador

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WTN: Over the hill wines with lunch

by Jay Labrador » Tue Mar 10, 2009 7:19 am

The usual suspects congregated today at the new Toki Japanese restaurant to cull some over the hill wines from their respective cellars. Fortunately, not everyone complied with the theme so we were also able to try some fresher bottles. As I arrived over an hour late, most of the wines had gone through nearly an hour of decanting; not a good thing with over the hill wines.

Chateau Margaux 1992 - Possible the worst vintage of the 90s. Looks good and smells rather nice with a indistinct fruity scent. A disaster in the mouth, unfortunately. A bit of smoke, faded fruit, acidic, bitter and watery.

Champagne Duval-Leroy Rose de Saignee NV - Just the merest tinge of old rose for color. Very attractive. Very dry and clean with high acidity. A little nutty on the finish. A very good Champagne.

Champagne Duval-Leroy 1999 - Very pale, light, very dry. High acidity. Elegant, good length and complexity. Clean, refreshing, citrus peel and a suggestion of coffee. Still a bit tight. Will surely improve with more age. It would be great to try this again in 5 years. Very good.

Chateau Ducru Beaucaillou 1989 - Very dry, leafy, faded fruit. Sweaty. Very soft. I didn't like it but it seemed to gain some strength towards the end of the lunch.

Chateau Tahbilk Marsanne 1997 - Unbelievably stinky. Rotten eggs. Undrinkable.

Chateau Lafite Rothschild 1983 - Promising, youthful color. Tobacco and leather on the nose with the same in the mouth. The fruit, though, is very subdued and tending towards dried plums and cherries. Generally soft but with a surprisingly firm finish. Decent complexity. It's clearly on the decline but is still a very good drink.

We finished with an excellent Dr. Loosen Riesling Beerenauslese 2006.
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David M. Bueker

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Re: WTN: Over the hill wines with lunch

by David M. Bueker » Tue Mar 10, 2009 7:49 am

The 1992 Margaux is not surprising.

I am a fan of Duval-Leroy. One of the hotels I stay at in the UK has their line as the house Champagnes. Needless to say I drink a lot of it.
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AlexR

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Re: WTN: Over the hill wines with lunch

by AlexR » Wed Mar 11, 2009 6:18 am

Hmmm.
1989 Ducru in decline?

I'm wondering if your bottle was representative.

Alex
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David M. Bueker

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Re: WTN: Over the hill wines with lunch

by David M. Bueker » Wed Mar 11, 2009 6:45 am

I've seen various issues with '89 Ducru. Wasn't that also from the period when they had the cellar problems? If so then a sub-par showing could be easily explained.
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Bill Spohn

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Re: WTN: Over the hill wines with lunch

by Bill Spohn » Wed Mar 11, 2009 9:39 am

You don't mess with Count Ducru.....oh, sorry, rewatched the Star Wars trilogy recently.

The 89 Ducru is a very nice wine, and isn't in decline, however I agree with David that your bottle was probaby off. Such things happen.

The 92 Margaux is no surprise. I have never met a 92 I'd bother uncorking and certainly didn't buy any. There have been a few I tasted that were...just OK, like Angelus, so the vintage rises above other horrid vintages like 1977, for which my statement is universally (in my experience) true. There were worse - 1991, 1965.....

FWIW, I tasted the 92 Margaux at a vertical when it was much younger and it did show as lightweight but better than your experience. Obviously the years have not been kind to it.

Fun thing about the over the hill sort of tasting is the pleasant surprise you get once in awhile.

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