Whites:
N/V Marquis de Monestral, Cava Brut Riserva Especiale:
Enduring bead, dry, clean, lemon-grass flavored, perfectly correct Cava without flaw or artifice. $9. Failure to at least try this wine is plain silly. I keep a case on hand.
(Aside: a friend who has substantial experience with bubbly thought it an N/V grower Champagne when tasted blind.)
2007 Marqués de Castilla, La Mancha (Bianco):
100% airén, 12% alcohol and about $8; moderately intense nose of lychee, resin and pear; much more powerful in the mouth, full bodied and strongly flavored with the dominant flavor being lychee, some pear, spice and mineral, bright acidity, quite concentrated, texturally smooth until the finish where it sort of mimics the elements of a ginger ale aftertaste; good sustain. ‘Never had a wine from this grape before; this is both pretty and potent.
2007 Dönnhoff, Riesling Estate:
Cherry pits and rainwater with a touch of citrus and light RS; 10% alcohol and about $17. Straight-forward but charming and lovely with Panang curry.
2007 Domaine des Cadastres, Picpoul de Pinet:
13% from the Languedoc and about $8. Floral, unripe pineapple, apricot and white grapes on both the nose and palate; medium body, balanced acidity, some white pepper on a mouthwatering finish. Diane and I agree; a very nice little lunch wine.
2008 Luigi Boca, Torrentés Fince La Linda:
Jasmine is the overwhelming smell and flavor – almost to the point of being off-putting; some citrus blossom and green apple with good acids and a medium length finish. I have had better versions of torrentés and at $15, this doesn’t measure up.
Reds:
2006 Overnoy/Houillon, Arbois Pupillin:
Finally, this is beginning to shut down. It is a ripe wine and has stayed pretty approachable since release. But now things are starting to fragment a bit and its time to put it away for five years. A great bottle IMO, but not just now.
1994 Coudoulet de Beaucastel:
Secondary development in full swing as the nose carries enough funk (most of which, blows off) to remind one that this has been sleeping. Very pretty wine with considerable mourvèdre character, still grippy and with a long finish. Not fully resolved but in a nice place.
2008 Gascón, Malbec:
Score one for the guys who say, “It’s what’s in the glass that counts.” This is good wine; very well balanced, not overtly oaky, not too slick, blueberry/blackberry smells and flavors, and a clean finish. If I were at a restaurant and saw it on the list, I’d order it with dinner without hesitation. It accompanied grilled chicken with Caesar salad just fine.
But there is no varietal signature here and absolutely no individual character. It’s a commercial success. But aging this wine would be pointless. 13.9% alcohol, about $12 (at Whole Foods) and ready now.
2003 Bonny Doon, Old Telegram:
Mourvèdre (100%) but too young to enjoy. Rustic, slightly disjointed, quite tannic – lay it down for 10 plus years. No noticeable flaws.
2005 Château de la Terrière, Beaujolais-Villages VV:
Closed on both the nose and palate; a smoked meat note, no florals with some burgeoning black fruit and a bit of spice. 13% alcohol and about $8. Needs time to resolve as the structure is in charge at the moment, but the stuffing is substantial and in balance. Hold.
2007 Conquista, Malbec:
Once more, a note on this wine; this is my new house “pinot” – put it in a Burgundy stem and let its nose open-up; medium body, very aromatic, satin texture and a wispy overall delivery. Not much varietal character but a pretty little wine. 13 % alcohol and about $7. Drink now.
Best, Jim