TN: 1988 Fiorano (Boncompagni Ludovisi) Malvasia di Candia

1988 Fiorano (Boncompagni Ludovisi) Malvasia di Candia Vino da Tavola Bianco Botte 26

really unusual and delicious--

Enjoyed over four days with broiled salmon, chicken pesto pasta, ginger chicken and alone. Tasted best I thought on the last day, having been sitting open (that day) for about an hour, and none too cool. Pure pale golden color, scent of just-cut pears and peaches, spice and a little melted wax. Progressively riper on the palate, truly intense at swallowing, and hinted (& pleasant) oxidation. The finish accentuates the acids, remarkably concentrated but not even slightly tart. This is a beautifully balanced wine, simultaneously delicate and intense. I am not at all sure it would not be improved by even more exposure to the air (& maybe a few more years in the bottle as well). If you are not familiar with the background of this wine, the remarkable story is posted here:

http://query.nytimes.com/gst/fullpage.h ... ano&st=cse

Just fascinating--I won't ask whom you had to kill to get a bottle, and I admire your discipline in stretching it out for full enjoyment! There's a lot online about the cache, and everyone mentions the magic mold, but has anyone grown some more from cellar samples and experimented with it? Anybody know?

Thank you, Michael!

Although this one did stretch my budget, far from impossible to find, it was purchased over the internet, FOB Manhattan. It really is a unique and delicious wine, one of very few I have had which seems to stand equally well alone or accompanying food. I might note that the Malvesia is generally the least-regarded of the prince's wines, the Semillons and truly unobtainable red wines are reputedly even 'better'. As for that mold, I can only assume the reclusive owner/vintner is keeping it captive, AFAIK mold grows well just about any place not too hot or dry. Too bad if so, perhaps it would present a challenge to biodynamics!