by Tim York » Wed Feb 25, 2009 6:43 am
A previous bottle of Château Poujeaux – Moulis-en-Médoc cru bougeois exceptionnel (in the 2003 suspended classification) – 1990, 50% CabSauv, 40% Merlot, 5% each of CabFranc and Petit Verdot, was strangely undernourished and dry (subliminal TCA?) but this one was all it should be from that ripe vintage: a rich nose of round and sweet red/dark fruit with a strong cassis (black currant) component and a medium/full body with good depth, shape and length, a velvety mouth-feel, ripe resolved tannins and still a lot of primary fruit and aromas as on the nose. So what is missing? The aromatic and fruit palette was a tad simple and I missed secondary aromas, which I remember finding on the 82, and a touch of green leafiness, which the last bottle I opened of 88 had in excess. But maybe this is as about good as Poujeaux can get; 16.5/20++.
Both in my reference books and on Google, there is a paucity of information about this wine, “Raso Scuro” IGT Rosso delle Venezie 2002- Mionetto, Valdobbiadene (TV) – Alc 12.5%. Back label helps with information that it is derived Cabernets franc and Sauvignon and from Teroldego and is partly barrique matured for 8 months. However I bought it from a reliable source and my confidence was justified. It was very nicely balanced with attractive aromas of sweet red fruit and minerals, good grip and structural backbone, medium/full body and fresh acidity. 2002 was a difficult vintage in Northern Italy and it is paradoxically possible that I might like this wine less in a riper year; 16/20.
Last July I wrote a note about Alfocheiro Preto - Dão DOC – 1997 – Quinta dos Roques – Alc. 13.5% - Alfrocheiro mono-varietal – and summarised it as “big-and-soft-and-soggy”. I liked it much better tonight with its strong aromatics, liqueur tinted dark fruit laced with canned prunes and liquorice coupled with a certain grip giving a dessert wine type appeal without overt sweetness. Fresher bottle and/or better pairing (or absence of pairing; this time after the finishing the main course of steak accompanied by Poujeaux and before the dessert)? I can see why this grape variety is normally used as part of a blend and it is not for every day or for every dish; but as used tonight 15.5/20+.
Saint-Chinian “5 Vignes” 2007 – Canet-Valette (c. €7), from Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Carignan and Cinsault, was a disappointing effort from a well regarded estate; aromas of confected boiled sweets and a strong rather coarse liquorice streak running through the sweet fruit on a quite short palate; 13.5/20.
Tim York