Whites:
2001 Guffens-Heynen, Mâcon Pierreclos – Le Chavigne:
Closed on day one – left overnight on the counter without being stoppered; fabulous on day two with rich, complex scents and flavors, no sign of oxidation and length to burn. A fabulous bottle opened way too soon.
2001 Dom. Roally, Mâcon-Viré-Clessé Tradition:
Some RS but not enough to throw off the balance of this wine; pure, clean, ripe chardonnay with lots of terroir coming through. Lovely now.
2006 Badde Nigolosu, Dettori Bianco:
Brass colored; the nose is all grapefruit and pith, flowers, ginger ale and mineral; much the same in the mouth with a bright but concentrated delivery and considerable nuance; good length. Superb with grilled chicken, caramelized onions and Caesar salad.
2004 Quintarelli, Bianco Secco:
Much more developed than on release with a nose and palate much like good Soave; a little citrus and some floral elements as accent. ‘Makes me wonder if another 3 or 4 years will make an even bigger difference.
2006 Peter Michael, Sauvignon Blanc L’Après-Midi:
Tropical fruit nose with some citrus hints (no grassiness); full and round in the mouth with flavors that echo the nose, satin texture; good length. Alcoholic and ever so slightly kissed with oak – even so, I like it.
2007 Masi, Masianco:
75% pinot grigio and 25% verduzzo, all in stainless; fresh scents of citrus, apricot and apple; flavors are less discrete but no less attractive, juicy, crisp and layered; medium length. Perfect lunch wine.
Rosés:
2007 Dom. Ott, Chat. De Selle Rosé:
Bone dry, ripe but perfectly balanced with strong flavors, good depth and a precision that is rare in pink wines. Charming with lobster salad.
2007 F. Cotat, Sancerre Rosé:
Served ice cold and its still too sweet. For those who like sweet rosé, have at it. For those who don’t, bury it in the cellar.
2006 Fortitude, Rosé:
From Napa, made of valdiguié (sometimes called Napa Gamay) and about 12.8% alcohol; not pale; very dry with earthy strawberry flavors and a distinctly bitter note (especially on the finish) that is not altogether pleasant. Its $9 so I don’t feel bad for trying it but I don’t think I’ll be back for more.
2007 Alta Vista, Rosé:
From Argentina, a rosé of malbec, 13.5%, $7 and the label indicates it was not made from saignée. Not pale; very shy nose of strawberry and stone; some strawberry and pomegranate flavors, a touch of resin and salt, some viscosity and a diffuse finish. Reticent to a fault but nothing flawed or objectionable.
2007 Mas Carlot, Rosé:
55% grenache, 40% syrah and 5% mourvèdre, all from saignée, $9 and 13.5% alcohol; not pale; raspberry Kool-Aid® and spice nose; almost rich on the palate with solid raspberry/strawberry flavors, some depth, maybe a touch of RS, and a pretty strong finish. Certainly more generous then the foregoing wine but not necessarily better.
(Aside: I am fast becoming convinced that the paler rosés are worth trying before the ones with more color. Dom. Ott, Tempier and several others I have had seem to be in the “very pale” category and they are certainly more complete and balanced wines than many of those that aren’t. So from now on, when I’m trying a rosé that I don’t know, I’ll opt for the palest wine on the rack.)
Reds:
2000 Felsina, Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia (375 ml):
Recognizably Chianti but without the stuffing to be memorable and without the depth to be worth holding.
2006 Overnoy/Houillon, Arbois-Pupillin:
Open this wine with me in attendance and be prepared to fight for your pour. About as good as any red wine of character and translucence can be. Beyond words with steak sandwiches.
2000 Beckmen, Syrah Purisima Mtn.:
Starts out closed and gently oaky – with air, smoked bacon, flowers and fresh herbs emerge; much the same in the mouth but little concentration – with air, significant grip; medium finish. As Spock would say, “interesting, but not fascinating.”.
2001 Forrier, Morey St. Denis Clos Salon:
Not any green anywhere; translucent and aromatic; pinot noir in the elegant mode with laser-like definition and good sustain. Very strong wine with lots of upside.
2006 Chignard, Fleurie Les Moriers:
Quite floral on the nose; fresh cherries and flowers in the mouth; good length. Very Fleurie – not as much depth and structure as the 2005 but much more recognizable to its place.
2006 Quercus Harmonia, Pinot Noir:
An Oregon pinot that is lithe, elegant, earthy, slightly austere and did not overwhelm something as lovely as baked swordfish with a fresh tomato and citrus sauce. Wild rose scents and raspberry/herbal flavors. A producer I had not heard of but one I will remember (unfortunately, I am told the winemaker is leaving the business).
2007 Luigi Bosca, Malbec Finca La Linda:
Reminiscent of both cabernet sauvignon and pinot, this wine comes across as a loosely textured Pomerol - as though the merlot based aspects of a Bordeaux were allowed to dominate. This producer makes a very well-balanced version that has sufficient concentration to be impressive and the elegance to be fine accompaniment to food. I have been trying more malbec’s these days and this is my favorite so far. $13 full retail – ‘worth a try.
2007 Conquista, Malbec:
From Argentina, 13% alcohol and $7. I suggest having this in a Burgundy stem – very pinot-like on the nose but fuller across the palate with lots of red fruit, some floral tones and a fairly resolved structure. Not a wine for the cellar but more than good with dinner. Very easy to drink.
Best, Jim
