2004 Altos las Hormigas Reserva Mendoza 14.4%
Now you see it, now you don't: at different points, mirages of coffee, vanilla, cocoa, rubber, cassis, leather, iodine. But whenever I resniffed to reconfirm, it was gone, puft! Putting this (foot) in the mouth only adds to the obstacles facing the steeplechasing nose. Very tannic and acid, the former in one room, the latter in another; a supercharged blend of flightly flavors suspended in a solution of protruding alcohol. Anything delicate melts into air. A paean to the international style, glorious in architecture & design, but specious in wine.