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WTN: Lagrange, D'Issan, and Corbin

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David Z

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WTN: Lagrange, D'Issan, and Corbin

by David Z » Tue Feb 17, 2009 1:02 pm

The wine club at my university organized a tasting...I guess all three of these estates are represented by the same person in the US. The winemaker from Lagrange and the President of d'Issan were both at the tasting.

These notes are from memory, so a little sketchy.

2005 Corbin- Shut down hard. Lots of structure. Hard to judge.

2005 Lagrange/ 2005 d'Issan- Incredibly grapey. I wouldn't say these were shutdown, but on the other hand they weren't remotely enjoyable. Both certainly had a lot of "stuffing" and didn't show any obvious flaws. The Lagrange seemed to be the bigger wine. Anyone planning on drinking these in the next decade is going to be disappointed.

2004 d'Issan- Distinctly similar to the 2005, but much lighter and less astringent. Clearly more suitable for early drinking. A sweet blackberry/currant nose with some floral notes- this was characteristic of all the d'Issan's poured tonight and we debated if it was reflecting terroir or a subtle oak treatment. Pleasant, but still primary and simple

2004 Blason d'Issan- Exceedlingly similar to the grand vin, but a touch lighter and more fragrant. Better drinking now, not as long-lived, but these were closer in quality than you might expect.

2003 Corbin- This might be a fine wine for someone not sensitive to stewed fruit flavors/odors. I'm not one of those people. I found this unpleasant, with stewed plum fruit and a bitter, charred aftertaste on the back of the tongue.

2002 Fiefs de Lagrange- Lovely- sweet currant fruit, some forest floor, a hint of mint. A hint of tannins, a correct amount of acidity.

2002 Lagrange- A couple of years behind the Fiefs, but the same gestalt. Not as open now, but this was just starting to open up- as it sat in the glass, the fruit obviously gained in intensity. We didn't decant these-they sat in glasses for about an hour before the tasting, so with proper decanting this might have shown better.

Mix of 2002 Fiefs de Lagrange & 2002 Lagrange- this was a little experiment I conducted- a 50/50 blend. It was better than either of the two on their own.

2000 Corbin- Shut down- I tried to coax fruit out of this, but it was resolutely tannin soup. Unenjoyable.

1999 d'Issan- lots of that sweet fruit/floral nose, very similar to the 2004 in that respect, but now with a nice forest-floor secondary note. Tannins resolved, this was relatively light and gulpable. WOTN for many. I'd expect this is at peak or perhaps a smidge past it- the color of this was surprisingly advanced, with very pronounced bricking at the rim.

1995 d'Issan- not nearly as fragrant as the 1999. The characteristic "sweet fruit" nose had faded to the background here. Strangely, there wasn't so much secondary stuff going on, and the color of the wine was relatively young (less advanced than the 1999). Lots of tannin still here, and a bitter aftertaste. Disappointing--many people commented that they disliked this wine. Too soon?

1989 Lagrange- Very advanced- this looked and smelled every bit of 20 years old. Tons of sediment and the color of demi-glace. This was, IMO, unusual- I got a load of black licorice at first, and as it aired out, soy & hoisin. Much less of the leaf/earth aromas that I expect from older left-bank bordeaux. A smooth drinker, and the black licorice really dominates on the palate. I liked, but it wasn't what I expected.


In sum, most found this to be a slightly disappointing tasting- we've had Lagrange/d'Issan come in past years, and those who had attended those tastings thought the wines had shown better in the past.
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Dale Williams

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Re: WTN: Lagrange, D'Issan, and Corbin

by Dale Williams » Tue Feb 17, 2009 3:37 pm

Thanks for notes. You're correct, the 3 estates share some representation and travel/present together (none are part of the UGC). It's usually Marcel Ducasse (winemaker of Lagrange), Emanuel Cruse (owner/winemaker of Issan), and Annabelle Bardinet (owner/winemaker of Corbin). The latter two are I believe married to each other.

I'm a big fan of Lagrange, and a fan of the other two. I'm not touching my 00/02/05 Lagranges for a while, with your note I'll skip the '00 Corbin as well.

I never cared much for the '95 Ch. d'Issan. I do like the '89 Lagrange, but your bottle sounds very advanced.

Thanks for notes, MUCH appreciated
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Re: WTN: Lagrange, D'Issan, and Corbin

by David Z » Tue Feb 17, 2009 6:07 pm

They're married? That makes a lot of sense- he was taking joking potshots at the (absent) winemaker of Corbin all night long, eg, "she's a wonderful winemaker, but she's a woman. We cant all be perfect." The women in the audience were outraged, but I guess they just weren't in on the joke.

I agree, I can't imagine my pour of the '89 Lagrange was typical- FWIW, some people thought it was the bees knees and others disliked, so we might have had a bad bottle or two mixed in with our lot (we have about 150 people at our tastings, so we're going through about a case of each wine).

One thing I noted looking over my notes is that I didn't mention minerality or graphite in any of my notes- I think that accurately reflects what I tasted. These were definately fragrant and fruity, but in a very traditional style with structure and acidity.

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