by Oswaldo Costa » Thu Feb 12, 2009 8:26 pm
2004 Catherine et Claude Marechal Savigny-les-Beaune White 13.5%
I enjoyed a few bottles of the 2002 and one bottle of the 2004 a few months ago but this one was, initially, just disappointing. The nose was subdued, with some white flowers, maybe. The fruit was also dull, with a hint of anis and some mineral. Good acidity but a hollow mid-palate. Tart ending. As it warms, oxidative notes suddenly rear their ugly head*. Duh, now I understand, it's shot because it's lightly maderized. So lightly that it took some air and warming to become clear.
So, premox strikes again. And in a 2004, no less. I was hoping this problem had been corrected after 2000 or so. Of course, one data point is not enough, but if the problem remains, we wouldn't be noticing it in wines from the first few years of this decade because they were still so young. Until now.
* why they are ugly here and not in the Jura is a question for another thread...
"I went on a rigorous diet that eliminated alcohol, fat and sugar. In two weeks, I lost 14 days." Tim Maia, Brazilian singer-songwriter.