WTNs: Vouvray Heaven & other Loire Chenins

Around a core group of Vouvrays, brought together some dear friends for a serial display of what the chenin blanc grape can do. All wines served with truffle oil salad, assorted cheeses and toast, except the last, served with macadamia ice cream and vin cotto.

2004 Domaine du Closel Savennières Clos du Papillon 14.5%
Aromas of peach, yeast, caramel, lavender, and white flowers. More acid than sweet, but quite pleasing in a way that the reverse (more sweet than acid) rarely is.

2006 François Pinon Vouvray Cuvée Tradition 12.0%
Aromas of very mild foot odor, sulfur (possibly a touch of reduction), citrus and white flowers. A touch sweeter than the Savennieres and in better balance with its acidity. Also quite pleasing.

2005 Huet Clos Du Borg Vouvray Sec 12.0%
Huet rocks! Fabulous aromas of white flowers, crushed seashells, calcium, iodine, and vongole (yes). A touch drier than the Pinon; mouth only shows perfect acid/sweet balance, without adding any flavor elements to the amazing nose. A maritime “madeleine” that transported me to the seaside in new wave French movies, bare feet walking on the cool, wet sand surrounded by a hazy mist. Must get more.

2003 Foreau Domaine du Clos Naudin Vouvray Demi Sec 13.5%
The hits just keep on comin’. Terrific nose of biscuit, yeast, wet stone, anis and something vegetable, like asparagus stems. The mouth feel is a wow, with terrific sweetness adding an extra dimension to the flavors, balanced with the right amount of acid and minerality. Even though I knew it was a demi-sec, the sweetness came as a lovely shock because there were no olfactory warnings, like honey or caramel. Another beauty.

2003 Domaine du Baumard Quarts de Chaume 12.5%
Another lovely nose, with apricot, yeast, and white flowers. Strong saline note, though I couldn’t quite call it iodine. Honey and caramel emerged when tasted, with perfect acid/sweet balance. Despite the vintage, the acidity is totally adequate; the fruit is absolutely lovely. For me, consistently one of the great wines to be had on this planet (don’t know about others), and all for a relative pittance, thanks to the dry penchant of the general population.

Huet and Foreau both rock. I am surprised how well both the 2003s are showing and your note makes me regret following the Foreau importer's advice to give the 03 demi-sec a miss.

Good group of wines.

Nice to hear about the 05 Huet Sec showing so well. I remember them being somewhat shutdown and difficult in 2007.

I believe the Pinon Tradition is always somewhat sweet, a 'sec-tendre' I think they call it (although does the Tradition still exist?)

Great notes, thanks. Especially appealing was the note on the 2003 Foreau Demi-sec. Though a slightly different take, the 2003 Moelleux is a wine I can't say enough good things about. The 1994 Moelleux last night was not its equal, sadly.

-Michael

(although does the Tradition still exist?)

I see it listed on wine-searcher up to 2007...

I am surprised how well both the 2003s are showing and your note makes me regret following the Foreau importer's advice to give the 03 demi-sec a miss.

Maybe it compares unfavorably to surrounding years (which I haven't tried), but it's certainly worth trying, if still available in Belgium.

the 2003 Moelleux is a wine I can't say enough good things about.

Good to hear, will see if I can find some.

Nice lineup, I'm jealous.
We talk mostly about Huet, but Foreau is consistently great, too. I carried a '89 sticky to lunch last weekend that was delicious, but needed a couple decades!
Yes, there is still a Tradition. But now the Tradition is all from chalk soils, the Silex is from the other soil type.

Yes, there is still a Tradition. But now the Tradition is all from chalk soils, the Silex is from the other soil type.

I thought he split the Tradition into the two Silex and Argiles cuvees. But, if he is still making a Tradition as well then one might imagine that the quality of its material could potentially be compromised. Will see.