Côtes du Marmandais “Clos Bacquey” 1998 – Domaine Elian da Ros, made from Merlot and CabFranc about 35% each, CabSauvignon and Abouriou about 15% each, showed a beautiful nose of red fruit, kirsch and deliciously light varnish after which the palate was a slight let down though it showed a good roundness, depth, acidity and tannic grip, finishing slightly dryly but with some elegance; it would honour a lesser Grand Cru from Saint-Émilion; 15.5/20++. (This was the second year from a very dependable estate which far outstrips the average standard of its appellation about 100km South-East of Bordeaux; recent vintages are even better. Apologies for giving a link in French but these are really excellent notes for those who can read them http://www.lapassionduvin.com/mag/eliandaros.php . )
Chinon “Le Clos Guillot” 2000 – Bernard Baudry was less deliciously complete than the cheaper “Les Granges” 00 drunk in mid 2008 but nevertheless very attractive in its elegant, quite light bodied style showing crisp acidity, red fruit, some earthiness and leafiness and a lot of minerals; 15.5/20++.
I was impressed by the Jura Chardonnays from Labet and Rijckaert at tastings last year and was curious to see how they showed with food. I am happy to report that they seem even better in this natural context. Côtes du Jura Fleur de Marne “La Bardette” 2005 – Domaine Labet was quite rich, tangy, mineral, long and elegant with fresh acidity, some cream, white fruit and a light note of toast; everything was beautifully integrated and any new wood has been deftly handled; will it age? It is so delicious now that I am tempted to drink up fast; 17/20. Côtes du Jura “Vigne des Voises” Chardonnay 2004 – Régine & Jean Rijckaert – showed slightly more intensity of broadly similar flavours to the Labet and was more showy but a tad less well integrated and slightly marred, for me, like a lot from Rijckaert by caramel notes on the finish; very good, though; 16/20+. (This was the second bottle opened after the first was badly corked with aromas like honey fungus under the bark of a dying shrub.)