Today was the 4th annual Peter Luger's Steaks at Peter Pratts event. organized by Mark Franks. A lot of work went into this (thanks Mark), but it was a resounding success from my viewpoint -good food, good wines, good people. I was at one of two tables that were originally Burgundy themed, but ours took a detour and became the Loire/Burgundy table. Betsy and I were happy to be at that table, nice balance of wines.
2004 Pinon Vouvray Brut (magnum)
Fresh baked rolls, apple, a little honied note. For my tastes a far better deal than most NV Champagne that cost more, not especially elegant but satisfying bubbly. B+
1989 Huet "Le Haut-Lieu" Vouvray Sec
Wooly, waxy, wovely. B+
1989 Prince Poniatowski "Aigle Blanc Vin de Tris" Vouvray
So my memory of this was sec-tendre, but this was more demi-sec+. We put into the refrigerator (outside) and revisited later. Pleasant forthright Chenin, but not especially complex. Some other liked more than I. B
1995 Fourrier "Clos St.-Jacques" Gevrey-Chambertin (magnum)
Corked. Why does it have to be the magnums that are corked?
Too bad, I have a 750 on hold, wanted a datapoint
1996 Fourrier "Clos St.-Jacques" Gevrey-Chambertin
This however was quite nice. Lovely earthy/floral/ferric nose, a bit shyer on palate, but opens with time. Red fruit, nice acids, very nice wine. B+/A-
1993 Arnoux "Chaumes" Vosne-Romanee
Earthy, smoky, deep rich and tasty. B+/A-
1993 Lamarche "Chaumes"Vosne-Romanee
Sweet and surprisingly ripe for a '93, pleasant but considerably less complex than the Arnoux. B
(somewhere in here a bunch of appetizers came by- duck quesadillas, lamb chops, boar spring rolls, shrimp (I presume Gulf, pretty iodiney)- all tasty)
Mystery wine #1 - a half bottle. In the decanter the nose is gorgeous, some barnyard and freshly turned earth, I'm guessing mid-80s Gevrey but apparently missed Jay saying it's not Burgundy. It's a 375 of the 1964 CVNE "Vina Real" Gran Reserva Rioja . B++
1979 Drouhin "Clos des Chenes " Volnay
This opens beautifully with a nose of wild mushrooms, damp earth, and cherry fruit. A little hightoned, the VA just brightened the wine without taking away from anything, solid. Within minutes it begins to seem a bit disjointed. At this point I write " A- on opening, falling to B-/C+" But Jay points out a surprising resurgence, and indeed it turns back into a pretty nice if aging Burgundy (though at this point Betsy thinks it tastes better than it smells).
1979 Latour "Champans" Volnay
A bit jammy and ripe (someone says pruney, but for me that's going a bit too far). but good length and finish. Never quite realizes the heights of the Drouhin, but never comes close to the lows. B/B+
a couple from other tables floated by:
1989 Ch,. MargauxGreat nose, that the palate didn't quite live up to. The nose is wild berries and floral, on the palate it's nice but just a tad foursquare. B+
1990 Jadot "Clos St. Jacques" Gevrey-Chambertin
A child of the vintage, solid structure, but maybe a touch hot and fruit running towards jammy. Still, solid core. B
Somewhere in here a mystery bottle was introduced. Unfortunately there was no mystery that the 1998 Gambal Mazis was corked to the max!
2003 Jadot " Clos de la Barre " Volnay
Ripe redcurrant jelly fruit, low acids, what one might expect. Hard to pick out as Burgundy or even PN. Still, drinkable red wine. C+
1998 Jadot "Clos de la Barre" Volnay
Fresher acids, more balanced, some smoke and cocoa over solid red fruit. Bigger style of Volnay, pretty nice. B+/B
(Caesar salad plus a tomato salad that was surprisingly good for Jan were devoured)
2000 Potel Romanee-St.-Vivant
Sandalwood, spice, bright and lively red fruits. Shows well over a period of hours, sorry this was my only bottle. A-
2000 DRC Romanee-St-Vivant
This was from nearby table, some trades to compare, as there are rumors on the source of the Potel fruit. I find noses (red fruit with an exotic edge) pretty similar, though this is a bit more concentrated on palate. Lovely lovely wine. A-A
2004 Louis Jadot "Clos St Denis"
There's a bit of greenness on nose, though it doesn't really carry through to the palate. Nice enough wine, but maybe in an awkward phase right now, seems a bit subdued. B
(Loire CF time- porterhouse, fries, creamed spinach)
1996 Baudry "Les Grezeaux " Chinon
Solid red and black currant fruit, this is a little muted compared to the '96 Joquet. Still a solid wine. B/B+
1997 Joguet "Clos de la Dioterie" Chinon
Solid wine, but not as exciting as I'd have expected. Herbs, red and black fruits, a little mocha note. Nice concentration on palate, but a tad lacking on finish. B+/B
1996 Joguet "Clos de la Dioterie" Chinon
Beautiful balance of acids, tannins, and fruit, dark berries and earth, a little tobacco leaf and cocoa. Great match with the steak, and one of my faves of the day. A-
Some interlopers:
1990 Ch. Montrose
Some found this too bretty, for me the barnyard is an accent not a dominant feature, rich black fruits. B+/A-
1989 Ch. Angelus
Pretty, medium bodied, good length, nice. B+
1998 Ch. Haut Brion
Young, vigorous, minerally, great length and concentration, but young! A-/B+
(thanks to Keith, a great assortment of cheeses)
2005 Michele Redde "Cuvee Majorum " Pouilly Fume
Good match with the Boucheron, but no clear memories of this
1988 Huet "Le Haut Lieu" Vouvray Demi-Sec
Yum and double yum, apple cider and honeycomb, very good and fresh. B+
1995 R. Denis Touraine Les Azay Rideau
Sweet fruit and chalky minerals, I know I liked but no note further notes written.
1989 Foreau/Clos Naudin Vouvray Moelleux Reserve
Lots of sweetness, citrus and honey, acidity keeps it lively, still quite young. A-
1989 Ch. d'Yquem
Orange marmalade and apricots, some honey, long and complex. A-
Very fun day. Was very happy to have Betsy with me (especially since she was driving home). Nice table, nice wines. Nice to see old friends and make new ones.
Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.
EDITED to add GR designation to the Rioja