WTN: Superb Touraine white: pre-phylloxera Romorantin vines

Vin de Pays du Jardin de la France “Provignage” 2006 – Cépage Romorantin – Vigne pré-phylloxérique – Henry Marionnet – Alc. 13% - (approx. €40).

C: Quite pale yellow
N: Subdued at first but developing intensity and complexity as the wine (straight from cellar at 11°C) aired and warmed a little; includes notes of burnished apple, rhubarb, quince, honey and minerals.
P: Similarly subdued at first but developing breadth, depth, “gras” and length to frame beautifully the above aromas. A lovely wine which probably has some development potential; 17.5/20.

The back label provides some interesting historical information about the vines and grape variety together with a grain of French grandiloquence. Here is my coarse translation –
“Provignage
Pre-phylloxera vines planted in 1850 according to verbal evidence.
The Romorantin grape variety was introduced into our region by King François I in 1519. He had 80,000 vines brought from Burgundy to be planted around Romorantin. The king was planning to construct a great château there but he finally built it at Chambord. Experts have confirmed the great age of these vines, which have not been grafted since phylloxera only appeared in France after 1870. It is a very complex and absolutely exceptional “vin de garde”. It represents a page of our history and forms part of the heritage of our country.”

One question springs to mind. What has happened to the Romorantin grape in Burgundy?

Thanks for the note. I have heard good things about this wine, which is supposed to be Marionnet's best. I have never been impressed by his red wines but this is supposed to be in a class (and a price category) above.

Interesting bit about Romorantin coming from Burgundy!

didn't see a vintage. i'm a little suspicious about these being 150 year old vines - not only beyond the useful life of most vines; but maybe the absolute life as well. surely they were propogated by rooting a stem at least once. anyway, i'll have to look for this wine - sounds fascinating. price?

price?

I believe he mentioned 40euros in his original post.

Interesting!

didn't see a vintage. i'm a little suspicious about these being 150 year old vines - not only beyond the useful life of most vines; but maybe the absolute life as well.

There are very old vines growing and making wine. Langmeil, in Australia, make a single vineyard Shiraz from a block of vines planted in 1843 (166 years old) - see http://www.langmeilwinery.com.au/?id=19&wid=12

Jamie Goode mentioned the old Romorantin in an article for Fine Wine magazine about ungrafted vs grafted vines (see here http://www.finewinemag.com/docs/072_077_Then&Now.pdf )

Jamie accepts they are that old and thats good enough for me.

I've not had this particular Romorantin but the one from François Cazin is pretty good. See Robin's 30 second advisor item at http://www.wineloverspage.com/wineadvis ... 0221.phtml

didn't see a vintage.

Apologies for the omission. 2006.

I have never been impressed by his red wines but this is supposed to be in a class (and a price category) above.

I agree that this Provignage is in a different class from Marionnet's Gamay, which can be enjoyably fruity with more depth than most in the region but is held back by the limitations of the Gamay variety, particularly in Touraine. I think that his ungrafted Côt (Malbec) should, however, be something different but, alas, I have never seen it.

I would rate Provignage in the same class as fine Loire Chenin.

didn't see a vintage. i'm a little suspicious about these being 150 year old vines - not only beyond the useful life of most vines; but maybe the absolute life as well.

There are very old vines growing and making wine.

Thanks for those interesting links, Peter, particularly the fascinating article by Jamie.

Should I dump Decanter and take Fine Wine magazine instead, if this article is typical of the quality it is offering?

Thanks for those interesting links, Peter, particularly the fascinating article by Jamie.

Should I dump Decanter and take Fine Wine magazine instead, if this article is typical of the quality it is offering?

I couldn't possibly comment.

I expect Jamies website offers as much for less.

Jamie's scientific background definitely adds much weight to articles such as this, although I frequently disagree with his opinions.

Astor has this at $95. Ouch!

Go to this link on Jim Budd's blog http://jimsloire.blogspot.com/2008/10/s ... -2008.html and scroll down the page for pics of the 150 year old vines.