2005 Menetou-Salon rouge, Les Renardières, Domaine Philippe Gilbert
Indeed quite a serendipitous wine, since I've learned not to expect much from the red Pinots from Sancerre and since Menetou-Salon is sort of the simpler cousin of Sancerre, how could I expect anything special from this wine. Well, in fact it was not entirely serendipitous, since one of the best bloggers in Sweden recently wrote a very positive note of it and this note tickled my curiosity enough to buy a couple of bottles to try it and indeed I have to give him right.
The colour is medium deep red, a little deeper than could be expected from a northern Pinot noir. The surprise starts when I sniff it. A fine, round and charming Pinot fruit jumps into my nose. Not overly aromatic, like a NZ Pinot, but with a definite pinosity. There is also a finely balanced note of toasted oak, that serves to back up the fruit and round of the wine in a fine way. Some spices, such as cloves and allspice are also present. On the palate, the wine has a fresh acidity, as one could expect, but not overly so. Again, the clever use of oak has helped to round off the taste and make it charming. Not much tannins and a bitterness that tends to become a bit too evident in the aftertaste. To a fillet of deer with Puy lentils and gratinated fennel, the bitterness was not any problem, but when the wine was drunk on its own, it was a little disturbing. A splendid wine, in particular considering its provenience. Probably not a wine to save, since I fear the bitterness might start dominating the fruit a bit too much, but delirious to drink within a year or so.
Does anyone else have any experience with this producer?
Cheers,
Anders