Viré-Clessé « L’Épinet » 2005 – Régine & Jean Rijckaert – went beautifully with sea bass showing bright minerality, some citrus fruit, good depth and none of those slight caramel notes (probably from 25% new wood) which mar some of their wines; it has the potential to develop some extra complexity like the 2002s which I tasted recently but will it, in view of the Nomacorc which Rijckaert is, IMHO, misguidedly using? 15.5/20+++.
Quinta do Carmo Reserva – Vinho Regional Alentejano – 2000 – Domaine Baron de Rothschild (Lafite), made from Aragonez, Syrah and Cabernet-Sauvignon and matured for 12 months in new oak casks, was, as one would expect from this producer, a polished and accomplished wine showing a civilised Southern character with good body, depth and length together with dark fruit and nice herbal and liquorice notes but just a tad too much boiled sweet perfume to be ideal for me; I might have preferred less French grapes and a bit more rusticity; 15.5/20++.
I unearthed recently two forgotten bottles of Saint-Joseph 1995 – Domaine Gonon – Alc. 12.5%. The first was fading but still drinkable but this second bottle (under an impeccable cork only stained on the bottom millimetre) was lively, medium bodied, harmonious and still full of quite generous fruit (a lot of ripe cherry) with attractive leather notes and well resolved tannic structure; 16/20.
Château de Schengen Pinot Gris 2006 – AC Moselle luxembourgeoise – Domaine Thill, Schengen, Luxembourg was not quite so good as I remember and noted the 2005; it is round, tasty and quite unctuous with typical PG spicy aromas but has less of the balancing acidity which I noted on the 05 and gave subjectively an off-dry impression with a touch of cloy of the finish; 14.5/20++.
Because of a change in menu, I brought up cold from the cellar Coteaux du Languedoc Pic-Saint-Loup “L’Olivette” 2006 – Clos Marie – (60% Grenache plus Syrah and Cinsault) and it was only singing by the last glass; nice red and dark fruit in a fresh and savoury vein with a lot of plum, good mouth-fill with some minerals, liquorice and herb hints; very nice QPR at €11; 15.5/20++.
St-Nicolas de Bourgeuil “Les Malgagnes” 2000 – Yannick Amirault - was, for me, a model Loire CabFranc at its peak but it may not please Amirault who eschews both vegetal and animal flavours; good mouth-fill with round, tangy and slightly sour red fruit, slight leafiness, minerals and wet leather. It went perfectly with the traditional Belgian “salade liégeoise”, a simple and quite salty, vinegary warm dish containing bacon chunks, French beans, onions and potatoes; 16/20.