2006 Alain Graillot Crozes Hermitage, 13% alc., $30.99: Deep dark color to this one; charter Gangster Scott “the Geek” Tobias comments immediately on the “game and meat” character, and you can add some herbal underbrush and leather along with deep, dark, rich black plum and berry; there’s actually a little more fruit and a little less earth than I expected, based on past vintages of this wine. Full bodied and well structured, yet quite approachable with an hour in a decanter; should be a 10-year wine, no sweat. With extended air, more herb, underbrush and leather emerge.
Imported by Europvin U.S.A., Van Nuys, CA
2006 Eric Texier Cotes du Rhône Brezeme,12.5% alc.: Much better than most of the bizarre ’99 versions of this bottling that we tried, this shows clean, dark color and weighs in at medium full to full in body, with nicely balanced earthy red and black berry, black plum and even some black cherry. There’s good structure for at least a few years worth of improvement, but it’s already drinking well. Not as muscular as many CdRs, but it compensates with a tasty, food friendly personality.
Imported by Louis/Dressner, New York, NY
2005 Domaine Lucien Barrot et Fils Chateauneuf du Pape, 15% alc., $36.99: Good dark color here, with flavors and aromas of earth, iron, black plum and blackberry. Full bodied and muscular, with serious depth and intensity; the huge core of fruit vies for dominance with the rocks, dirt and underbrush. This is a BIG Chateauneuf du Pape with admirable charms, many layers of complexity and a long life ahead of it. Should be at its best between 2015 and 2020.
2006 Domaine Lucien Barrot et Fils Chateauneuf du Pape, 15% alc., $38.99: Clean dark color, with smoky blackberry and plum shaded with undertones of earth and iron on both the nose and the palate; Scott “the Geek” Tobias offered impressions of cola and a ton of tobacco, adding that it’s “the interaction of the fruit and tannins that make it remarkable. Not as big as the 2005 model, but still, it’s full bodied, well structured, very good with some grilled lamb and almost shockingly approachable for so young a wine of this kind. It should age and improve easily for the next 5-7 years, and quite likely beyond.
Imported by Europvin U.S.A., Van Nuys, CA
-from Red Wings & Red Rhônes 2008-09
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