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WTN: Mark plays the trickster on SOBER

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Dale Williams

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WTN: Mark plays the trickster on SOBER

by Dale Williams » Wed Jan 21, 2009 10:23 am

Mark hosted  SOBER last night, and put forth an interesting theme. He told us every flight pair involved a couple of wines, one of which could have been bottled as the other. Ok!

He provided a nice spread of cheeses, meats, and shrimp and then a main course of lemon-accented lamb stew.

He had asked everyone to bring a Champagne glass, a white wine glass, and 4 red wine glasses. As a warmup, he served the wine #1. the Mumm de Cramant Champagne, with everyone getting pours in both their flute and white wine glass, to compare. If I had known the plan, I would have brought a standard flute, but had brought my favorite Champagne stem, the Zalto Denk'Art (I only have the one, thanks Emily). I like it because it seems to have the best features of a flute and a standard stem, no surprise I preferred it. But actually the majority of the table favored their flutes to the white glasses- the white opened the nose well, but most seemed to prefer the flute for the palate (and as one said. " it's better for the bubbles- and otherwise what's the point"). Nice bubbly, crisp but with a rather creamy texture, sweet apple fruit with just a hint of yeast. B+

(I'm just writing what I wrote at the time, somewhat embarrassing at points)

Wine #2- Sweet cab fruit, lead filings, tannic. Young and hard, everyone is in young Bdx. Not especially appealing, but more open than it's flightmate. B-

Wine # 3- tighter, more earthy, redder fruit. More of a sense of underlying complexity. B-/B

Turns out they're components of the same wine!
#2 2006 Brane Cantenac (Margaux) barrel sample in Slovenian oak.
#3 2006 Brane Cantenac in French oak

OK, got us good.
Next flight also got quickly narrowed to young Bordeaux

Wine #4- Sweet fruit, lush texture, earth and oak. A bit of tobacco. I like this, though some others don't. B+

Wine #5- Also sweet fruit, I think a bit shorter on finish, pleasant but not compelling. B/B-

#4 2004 Ch.Palmer (Margaux)
#5 X1Xth Century Blend by Palmer (experiment with 15% Hermitage added )

Next we did a flight, were told that 6 & 7 are paired, as are 8 & 9

Wine #6- from cherries and earth on nose I thought this was Burgundy, but group settles on claret again. Herbs and tobacco over red fruit, delicate, maybe a tad past its prime. I'm still not totally convinced it's Bdx, but with Mark's parameters I guess it is, since #7 is pretty clearly claret. B

Wine #7- more vigorous, red berries and currants, licorice, cigarbox, maybe just a hint of barnyard. Earthy delicious a pointe claret. A-

Wine #8- dense tannic and sweet, black berry fruit, herbs, I'm thinking modern Cote Rotie. John says he gets a marijuana note, between that and knowing Mark's cellar guesses Thackrey. B+

Wine #9- pretty similar, more spicy than herby, I prefer # 8 by a hair. B+/B
    
#6  1979 Ch. du Tertre (Margaux)- 1/2 a magnum, decanted few hours
#7 1979 Ch. du Tertre -other half, put into a bottle and then re-corked
# 8 1995 Sean Thackrey “Orion” 1/2 a magnum, decanted few hours
#9 1995 Sean Thackrey “Orion”-other half, put into a bottle and then re-corked

Got us!

(next flight was out of order, based on Mark's feeling of which needed more air, I'm sticking to numbers on decanters)

Wine #12- some tannins, sweet ripe red fruit, a little earth. B/B+

Wine #13 - floral nose, big berry fruit, earth and a little sweat. I also wrote tar, but I think that was after a couple people had declared them to be Barolo (close). Structured but quite nice now, although some others think in awkward stage. A-/A
 
# 12 1990 Giacosa Barbaresco Riserva (red label)
#13 1990 Giacosa Barbaresco Santa Stefano Riserva (red label)  

Last flight
Wine #10- cassis and some tannin, fairly acidic, somewhat run of the mill Bdx. B

Wine #11- really tannic, some cassis and blackberry fruit, big but doesn't seem that concentrated (I'm shocked when revealed),. young but not especially going anywhere. B

#10  1986 Clos du Marquis (St Julien)
#11 1986 Ch. Leoville Las Cases (St Julien)

Fun night, even if I got fooled some (ok, most) of the time! Thanks Mark.

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.
 
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David M. Bueker

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Re: WTN: Mark plays the trickster on SOBER

by David M. Bueker » Wed Jan 21, 2009 1:03 pm

Not only inventive, but probably difficult to pull off and darned expensive. Very interesting event.

I've done the two halve of the same magnum thing, but never unblended barrel samples.
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Re: WTN: Mark plays the trickster on SOBER

by Oswaldo Costa » Wed Jan 21, 2009 2:21 pm

Exciting! How in heaven's name did he procure barrel samples with different oak profiles from Brane Cantenac? Is the Palmer blended with syrah commercially available?
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Dale Williams

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Re: WTN: Mark plays the trickster on SOBER

by Dale Williams » Wed Jan 21, 2009 2:29 pm

Mark is a wine journalist, and goes to Bdx every year. I'm guessing he carried samples back, but maybe he got from a rep here. One of the funner tastings (a charity dinner for my group, not a SOBER event) that he put together was half bottles of the components of the '70 de Pez- the CS, CF, and Merlot separately, plus the final blend. Apparently they bottled the sets for the winemaking division of I think the Univ. of Bordeaux.

The XIX Historical blend is commercially available, I think $150-225 range , though it's been out a while so maybe not easy to find (someone said 25 cases to US last night)
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Re: WTN: Mark plays the trickster on SOBER

by Dale Williams » Wed Jan 21, 2009 2:35 pm

Oh, and should have noted that the rest of the blend (85%) was Palmer estate fruit.
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Re: WTN: Mark plays the trickster on SOBER

by Mark Golodetz » Thu Jan 22, 2009 9:12 am

Hi all.
Long time since I have posted here.

The barrel samples came from a tasting done by Brane Cantenac owner Henri Lurton a few months ago. The wines were bottled around the same time as the Chateau bottles, so they should be at the same stage as the chateau bottlings.

The magnum test came after I became curious as to the effect of oxygen in the shorter term. The two Du Tertres, as Dale expressed, were two very different wines, while the Orions were quite similar. Ultimately I don't think that however great they are California Syrahs change or take on as much complexity as Bordeaux, hence how little they changed with aeration. I did prefer the Las Cases to Dale but for me the real wine of the night, as I would have expected knowing the producer, was the red label Santa Stefano.

The tasting itself really demonstrated how relatively small differences make for such incredible variation. The point of serving blind was not an exercise in trickery but really to determine whether a group of very experienced tasters could find similarities in similar wines which had been treated in different ways. Perhaps it shows how much wine can be manipulated and how little we can trust what is in the glass in front of us.
Last edited by Mark Golodetz on Thu Jan 22, 2009 12:02 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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David M. Bueker

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Re: WTN: Mark plays the trickster on SOBER

by David M. Bueker » Thu Jan 22, 2009 9:33 am

Hi Mark - glad to see you here & thanks for doing such an interesting tasting.
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Re: WTN: Mark plays the trickster on SOBER

by Bob Parsons Alberta » Thu Jan 22, 2009 10:09 am

Mark, one of the most unusual tastings ever. Congrats!
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Re: WTN: Mark plays the trickster on SOBER

by Dale Williams » Sat Jan 24, 2009 12:47 pm

Mark Golodetz wrote:The point of serving blind was not an exercise in trickery


Hey, I meant trickery in the best sense (the Lakota style, sacred trickster that keeps us honest).
Thanks for source on the BC!

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