Venice, Lombardy, Piedmont...any reccos

Roxi and I have decided to head for Northern Italy in April, so we're open for suggestions.

We intend to spend three days in Venice, then rent-a-car over to the Piedmont, probably stay in an agriturismo in Cuneo, maybe Dogliani/Dolcetto area, then perhaps a couple of days in Lombardy, maybe Brescia area, a short up to Friuli and then back home.

Any experiences we need to have, or places we shouldn't miss? Any cool b&bs or hotels or country inns?

Hoke
Sounds great fun

We've stayed in Cuneo before and can recommend it (one of our rare stays in a hotel as against apartment/agriturismo).

These are my crib notes I took to Cuneo (A selections from guides, online resources & other research). With some comments added in based on experiences there. Booking for restaurants is advisable, but not crucial.

Cuneo
*Osteria della Chiocciola, via Fossano 1 (closed sun) ..... Fantastic food and fine wine selection
Trattoria Zuavo, via Roma 23 (closed wed & thu midday) .... A real gem of a trattoria - lovely food and a lovely homely atmosphere
Bistro / Trattoria @ Lovera Palace, via Roma 37 (closed sun, mon & sat lunch)
Delle Antiche Contrade , via Saviglano 11 (the old postal station specialising in fish – closed sun)

If you like sports gear, then this French chain is very good indeed:
Decathlon, via Margarita 8 (ang. Via Savona), Localita Tetto Garetto, Fraz. Borgo San Giuseppe, Cuneo (open 9am-9pm – mon 12-9pm)

Tourist info: Corso Nizza 21
Pastaficio Bociti, Corso Soleri
Salumeria Ariano, via Pascal 2
La Bottega del Formaggio, via Grandis 2
Confetteria Arione, Piazza D. Galamberti 14 (Pastries / Cakes)
Vini e Vini di Mario Bianni, Corso Galileo Ferraris 11b (wine)
Gastronomia Europa, Piazza Europe 10
Pasta Fresca, Corso Nizza 49 & via Saluzzo 38
Caud e Freid, Corso Nizza 76
Macelleria Tutto Carne, Corso Nizza 56a
Lavanderie: 2, VIA SAVONA; 34, VIA GRANDIS SEBASTIANO; 57/A, VIA VENTI SETTEMBRE; 25/B, VIA FOSSANO; VIA MARTINO GUIDO; VIA SAVONA; 26/A, VIA CASCINA COLOMBARO; 17, VIA MOMIGLIANO ARNALDO; 51, VIA ALBA; 2, VIA STOPPANI ANTONIO

The lavanderie in case you need laundry done.

In addition, the twice weekly market is very good (Wednesdays and Saturdays IIRC). On one day they even have tractors and other farm machinery there, but the food, clothes, shoes etc are the main attraction - quality of produce is high.

Driving is very easy round there and the scenery is great. Passeggiata and aperitivo hour are both decent (if not achieving the greatest heights). They're geared up for tourists, but not to the point of selling their souls. It's quite popular with the French.

If you want a break from driving, consider the train trip to Ventimiglia and from there onto the Hanbury gardens (#1 bus IIRC). We didn't do this trip, but it appealed with it's route through the Maritime Alps, including what you can see on a map as a full circle to gain height! [Edit: I was right about the bus... fuller details: Hanbury Gardens, La Mortola. Take #1 (Blue Riviera) bus from corner v. Cavour / via Martiri della Liberta (heading to Ponte San Luigi)

Of other places, barring the Barolo/Barbaresco/Alba attractions, Bra (nearish to Cuneo) warrants mention as the home of slow food movement and the centre of the regional cheese production. Definitely on our radar for our next trip to the region.

I hope this is of use & hope you have a great trip.

regards

Ian

Hey, thanks, Ian. Lots of great stuff there. Appreciate it.

When I saw the subject line for this, my first thought was, "What's Vince Lombardi got to do with wine travel?"

I may need a trip to the optometrist.

When I saw the subject line for this, my first thought was, "What's Vince Lombardi got to do with wine travel?"

That's laugh out loud funny!

Two highly recommended places to stay in La Morra-

CORTE GONDINA HOTEL
voice: +39 (0)173 509781
fax: +39 (0)173 509782
e-mail: info@cortegondina.it
website: http://www.cortegondina.it

B&B Fior di Farine
Via Roma 110
12064 La Morra
Tel.: 0173 50118
Fax. +39 0173 500635
http://www.fiordifarine.com
<info@fiordifarine.com>

The local wineries cooperative is also a nice place to taste and buy.

Locanda Orseolo
http://www.locandaorseolo.com/en/
Tell the owners Barbara and Matteo that I recommended it to you. They are great, the hotel is small, very close to St Mark's Sq in a good way. They put out a nice breakfast.

I have a list of places to eat. I can send by email when you are ready for it.

Thanks to all for their replies.

We decided to go cheapoid with the agros...but I feel confident we got some good places.

In the Piedmont, we picked Al Brich, sitting on a hill just south of Alba (between Alba and Diano d'Alba). Seems like a really nice couple running the place, it's got some great views, they supposedly put up a pretty good breakfast included, and yes, it is inexpensive. Also got a list of some great ristorante, trattoria, etc., all over the area, and a couple of vineyard visits planned.

In Lombardia, we're staying in an agro that is also a horse riding academy! La Staffa. It's barely in Brescia, south of Desenzano/Lago di Garda in the Mincio, right next to the regione line with the Veneto. Should be pretty, relaxed and comfortable, but with easy access to Trento/Bolzano, Verona, and Brescia. Maybe even down to Mantua, who knows???

Haven't pinned down Friuli as yet, but working on it. May visit the Nonino ladies!! (hubba hubba). With wife's approval.

In Venice we'll be in the San Marco, between the Piazza and the Rialto. Wife feels comfortable there. I was shooting for the Castello, or the Accademia/Dorsoduro, but where we'll be looks cool.

Hoke
Well that does bring Alba into the picture for restaurant choices - they also have a very efficient Tourist Info place - very impressive to see how good they are at full pelt.

Also of course in range of Barolo (and Barbaresco vineyards), plus the local Dolcetto's etc.

Although out of season, the truffle products from TartufoLanghe make good self-gifts to take home, also TartufoMorra in the centre (Piazza Pertinace 3).

The markets in Alba are on the following days:
Tuesday P.zza Sen. Osvaldo Cagnasso
Wednesday Borgo Moretta
Thursday P.zza Sen. Osvaldo Cagnasso
Friday C.so Europa
Saturday - City Centre
Hopefully you'll see the alpine strawberries and also a yellow/orange fruit called Nespole which should be in season.

I've got some restaurants / winebars listed for Alba, but as we didn't manage to get to any of them when we visited (Truffle festival), then I haven't put them here, but can do so if you're in need of possible Alba restaurants.

Birger will have more detailed knowledge of this area anyway!

regards

Ian

Thanks, Ian!

We spent a couple of absolutely lovely days in Alba (Hotel Savona) a few years ago, and the stay coincided with the central market day, so it was a great experience, and we remember it fondly.

So it's wine, choco and truffles for us!

Some of my ITB friends have also given me some restaurant reccos from the locals, covering the entire area. I figure if I eat at all of them, I'll be able to roll onto the plane to go home.

Roxi and I have decided to head for Northern Italy in April, so we're open for suggestions.

We intend to spend three days in Venice, then rent-a-car over to the Piedmont, probably stay in an agriturismo in Cuneo, maybe Dogliani/Dolcetto area, then perhaps a couple of days in Lombardy, maybe Brescia area, a short up to Friuli and then back home.

Any experiences we need to have, or places we shouldn't miss? Any cool b&bs or hotels or country inns?

Hi Hoke,

Just outside Monforte d´Alba you will find Ivana and Valter http://www.ivanaevalter.com/ nice appartment at 60€ pr. day. Lots of great restaurants as well in Monforte.

Have a look at http://www.langhe.net useful information there.

A must visit is Davide´s restaurant in Canale fantastic place http://www.davidepalluda.it Davide is a friend of mine Youngest person to recieve a Michelin Star.

I import wines from Piemonte, and if you wish to visit some of my producers send me an PM, I will gladly help you.

There is a lot of markets, Friday morning in Bra, come early approx 8.30 a lot of people there and a lot of food and clothes.

Each Saturday morning there is a market in Alba, same here come early or no carparking.

When are you going in April? I am there 23-26 with 15 persons from England, from a UK Forum. Could be fun to meet with you.

Let me know.

Ciao
Birger

Birger, thanks for all the great info!

I'll check the dates, but I think we'll be in the Langhe at the same time you are. We'll be staying in Albaretto della Torre, so just outside Alba. It would be great to hook up while there.

I will check out the sites you mentioned.

Birger, thanks for all the great info!

I'll check the dates, but I think we'll be in the Langhe at the same time you are. We'll be staying in Albaretto della Torre, so just outside Alba. It would be great to hook up while there.

I will check out the sites you mentioned.

Hi Hoke,

Prego,

This is our programe, visits with * is my producers:

Thursday 23. of April:

13.30 Lunch at Marchesi di Barolo, Barolo http://www.marchesibarolo.com/
If there is time Visit at Marchesi di Barolo´s enoteca
16.00 Winetasting at Vietti, Castiglione Faletto NEW
20.00 Dinner at Grappolo d´Oro http://www.grappolodoro.net

Friday 24. of April:

09.00 Winetasting at Paolo Monti, Monforte d´Alba http://www.paolomonti.it
11.00 Winetasting at Conterno Fantino, Monforte http://www.conternofantino.it
13.30 Lunch at Ristorante Da Felicin, Monforte d´Alba http://www.felicin.it
16.00 Winetasting at Gianfranco Alessandria, Monforte d´Alba http://www.gianfrancoalessandria.com
18.00 Winetasting at Giovanni Manzone http://www.manzonegiovanni.com
20.30 Dinner at Ristorante La Collina, Monforte d´Alba http://www.ristorantecollina.com

Saturday 25. of April: With bus.

09.00 Market in Alba or
* 09.00 Winetasting at Filippo Gallino, Canale http://www.filippogallino.com
11.00 Winetasting at Matteo Correggia, Canale http://www.gianfrancoalessandria.com
13.00 The bus pick up the people in Alba
13.30 Lunch at Davide Palluda, Canale http://www.davidepalluda.it
16.00 Winetasting at Roberto Voerzio, La Morra
18.00 Winetasting at Sottimano, Neive http://www.sottimano.it
20.30 Dinner at Osteria dei Catari, Monforte d´Alba http://www.osteriadeicatari.com

Sunday 26. of April: With bus.

09.00 Winetasting at Fratelli Barale, Barolo http://www.baralefratelli.it Moved from Thursday
* 11.00 Winetasting at Negro Giuseppe, Neive http://www.negrogiuseppe.com
* 13.30 Winetasting and lunch at Crissante Alessandria La Morra
15.30 Off to Malpensa Airport.

Could be fun to meet.

Ciao
Birger

A very useful thread, as it seems likely Marcia and I will be driving around the Piemonte area in the first week of June. Take detailed notes, Hoke!

In Venice, my all-time favorite stomping ground, be sure to have a glass of white fragolino with a cicheti of baccala mantecato at Lino's in Dorsduro near the Zattere (full name is Enoteca Cantinone Gia Schiavi di Gastaldi Lino, 992 Dorsoduro). It's a decent wine store as well, so that if the weather permits, you both can share a bottle with sandwiches at sunset on a bank facing the Canal. Magical.

My favorite gastronomic experience (but more expensive) is the restaurant at the Hotel Agli Alboretti (now under separate ownership), also in Dorsoduro, except next to the Accademia. A 1998 Castello di Ama Vigna l'Apparita we had there was totally memorable. In the Accademia, be sure to see the most amazing collection of Bellini Madonnas to be found anywhere and two amazing Giorgiones, an old crone and a tempest.