Wine travelling do's and don'ts

While I’m hardly an expert on the subject of wine travelling, I thought it might be fun for us to share some do’s and don’ts or tips and tricks for thirsty travellers – not so much destinations (not that you can have too many good ones), but rather little things that can make a trip more enjoyable. Most of mine are probably mundane and obvious and possibly limited to my experiences in Germany and Italy, but I’m looking forward to reading new ideas.


- A wine guide like the Gambero Rosso for Italy is a good place to start getting an overview of quality producers in an area, and magazine ratings can help finding a good winery among uninteresting ones. However, ratings also mean money. A Gambero Rosso entry increases demand and prices usually follow shortly thereafter. If you want to find a hidden jewel, a real bargain, stay away from top-rated producers.

- try to get an idea about the price range of the producer’s wines beforehand (via their website or online shops)

- ask for minimum buy restrictions; some only sell by the case or more

- mention how many people you are and if you are on a private visit; don’t disappoint a producer who would have expected 20 importers

- try to get the cell phone numbers of the person to contact

- prepare a text message that you can send 30-60 minutes or so before you arrive; that is especially good for small, artisanal producers

- if travelling with several people, try to keep notes of who bought what right away

- a (mobile) navigation system is an absolute lifesaver, especially in rural regions which most wine regions are; to save time, enter the destinations before at home

- looking for a restaurant? ask the winemaker

- roads to agricultural farms are often shoddy; when using a gps, be sure not to drive unto a dirt road before you are only a minute away from your destination (otherwise, a bad gps or map might send you straight through vineyards or over hills… I can speak from experience)

- many producers esp. in Germany sell their wine over the internet, though few send internationally (and websites are rarely in English); still it never hurts to ask

- some producers, like cooperatives and Germans, have huge selections of different wines; best to make a list of what you want to taste beforehand or split the range between several people

- take water and a palate cleanser like breadsticks with you if you’re in a car. Most offer these, but some don’t.

- writing an email or fax in the native language (if necessary, with the help of babelfish) is the best and most polite way to get an answer, but I wouldn’t hesitate to ask for someone who speaks english as there’s bound to be someone; trying to speak even a few words usually is greatly appreciated though

- some put up their business hours on their web site, that doesn’t mean you don’t need an appointment… some are really like shops though and are a good back up plan


What are some of your lessons from experience?

some good experience you've shared. Additional thoughts

In Italy
- Appointments are almost always necessary
- I always offer to pay for tasting, as there is so little room on budget flights from UK, and they always refuse any payment.
- In Barolo, they're always interested in seeing who else you've visited. I think they like to judge what your preferences are.
- Italian road names are notoriously inconsistent in the countryside. GPS will often draw a blank because it has a different name for that stretch of road than the winery uses.

In Australia/NZ
- Appointments rarely needed
- Winery food is often excellent

In general
- Liking dogs is generally a bonus for a winery visit
- A balance between big/medium/small and micro producers is instructive
- Some wine regions have relatively tightly grouped pockets of wineries. Sometimes bicycle or by foot is achievable - perhaps for a day or two out of a four day visit. However many wine regions are by nature hilly...
- Try to collect as many different answers to why they plant roses at the end of rows of vines
- Tourist info often has a good list of wineries

regards

Ian

- I always offer to pay for tasting, as there is so little room on budget flights from UK, and they always refuse any payment.

Ian, I thought you were English. Apparently, there is some Scot in you.

One of my best rules is: Do not attempt to impress the winemaker/host/tour guide with how much you know and how sophisticated you are. You are there to learn, to understand, to appreciate, not to teach them anything or let them know how important you are. In short, keep your eyes and ears open, and your mouth relatively shut, except to ask questions and offer profuse thanks.

--Ask the winemaker/host which are the good places to eat.

In Australia/NZ
- Appointments rarely needed
- Winery food is often excellent

Ian

An interesting thread. In terms of visiting OZ or NZ I always try to organize tasting appointments. As Ian says you don't really need to do this but there is one big advantage - you will get a much more personal interaction. Due to the distance and time zone differences I usually email my request giving the days we will be in the region and the number in our group (usually 2-6) and suggest a possible time window that allows 2 hours for a visit/winery. With very few exceptions I get a reply that can range from

1) "we won't be available on those days" - means what is says,
2) "we will be open" - do like everyone else and belly up to the cellar door bar, or
3) "we have put you down for X time on Y day" - we want you to come and taste our wines and we will make time to do it.

Probably about 60-70% of replies are the latter. I then exchange cell phone numbers and give details on where we will be staying while in the area. Always make sure that you contact the winemaker on the day to make sure they know you will be there and give them a heads-up if you wil be late for your appointment. I've learnt that when you arrive make sure that you say who you are. Most (bigger) places can be busy and to expect a winery to be waiting just for you is not reasonable. I always take notes on the wines tasted, always spit, and never bury the winemaker with questions although I usually do have a few specifc questions for each winery; a common one is who distributes you wines in the US. I feel its important to show a genuine interest because very often, especially with small makers, these folks are letting you taste what may be several hundreds of $ worth of wine that might be in limited supply. Over the years we have established quite good contacts with a number of winemakers and so each visit just gets better and better.

We have had very interesting experiences such as a winery in NZ that had lined up 20 wines for us to taste away from the cellar door in their boardroom, but the most pleasant experience is that of tasting in the winemaker's home because they don't have a cellar door. Such experiences can be magic and often last for more than 2 hours which is why I never set up any more than 4 appointments per day.

Because I am a constant note taker one thing I have often noticed is that if you walk into a cellardoor without an appointment and you do take notes on the wines then you can often be presented with wines that may not be on for tasting, or you may get to taste wines for free that normally are pay-to-play. I never feel the need to buy wines while I am visiting (although we will often buy one or two bottles for the road) but I do always ask for any literature like price lists etc.

And it does pay to be dog (or cat) friendly - which is why I am always happy to have my wife (a veterinarian) along with me.

Mike

Sonoma and Napa in California:

Many producers have formal tasting rooms with hired sales staff. There's usually a charge that gives you a tasting of a handful of the producer's wines. There may be an extra charge for tasting the premier wines. In many (if not most) cases these are there to discourage casual tourists who are just in search of a cheap way to get drunk. Tasting charges are often waived if you buy something. Quite often once they realize you're serious about wine, additional things that aren't on the printed wine menu might be offered, or you'll find that you aren't charged for the tasting after all, even if you don't end up buying anything.

"Tasting by appointment" is sometimes used simply to discourage wine tour buses from stopping at the winery, and if you just show up as an individual or small group and knock on the door you'll be welcomed. But it always pays to call ahead when it says "by appointment".

In my experience, Napa seems a lot more touristy and crowded than Sonoma.

It is useful to get one of those wine country maps that shows where the tasting rooms are. Then pick a road with a cluster of wineries on it and visit all the ones that are open. There will be disappointments, but you'll also find a bunch of pleasant surprises and get to taste excellent wines you never knew existed.


Burgundy:

Keep in mind that most producers are small outfits, and all of the best producers probably could sell several times what they actually make. In general you don't find formal tasting rooms with full-time staff here. It helps a lot to have your wine merchant or someone else in the wine trade set up appointments for you. The producers interact with importers and wholesalers all the time, but they don't have all that much contact with the actual consumers of their products in foreign countries, and they like to meet them in person.

There is an excellent Cave Cooperative in Chassagne-Montrachet where you can taste wines from many excellent producers.

When you're dining at a restaurant, ask the sommelier to recommend some local producers who are worth a visit. Conversely, ask winemakers you visit where the good places are to dine.

Some of the communes have wine tasting festivals where many of the producers throw open their cellars for free tastings. It's worth trying to find out when and where these are held.


Rhone:

The southern Cotes du Rhone around Gigondas, etc. is a lot more like Sonoma in that many wineries have formal tasting rooms set up. The northern Rhone is more like Burgundy in that it helps to have appointments set up by contacts in the wine trade.

Many of the wine towns have a local cave cooperative where, for a small tasting fee (often waived if you buy something), you can taste a number of the local wines. Again, it's worth asking local sommeliers who they recommend that you visit. They may be able to set up appointments for you.

-Paul W.