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WTN: Christmas Wines

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Dale Williams

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WTN: Christmas Wines

by Dale Williams » Fri Dec 26, 2008 8:06 pm

Christmas Eve I was leading a group into city for a party for those without, so couldn't really drink. We were at a party beforehand and I did take small pours of both the white and the red:

2007 Clos de la Fine Muscadet
Saline, mineral, lemon and apple. Good acidity, not bad at all. B

2007 Domaine Brunet Pinot Noir (Vin des Pays, subregion was something Mediterranee, new one to me)
I'm fearful of these VdP Pinots, but this was better than most. Sweet red fruits, a little smoky note, not long but drinkable. B-

So we got home at 3 AM. Get up for presents and breakfast of country ham, then it was all day cooking, cleaning, and prepping for arrival of dinner guests. 12 people means our dining table has to get moved to living room, ugh. But a good time was had by all. Guests brought hummus, guacamole, proscuitto wrapped melon with sambucco and anise, and a liver mousse. We did 2 rib roasts, a vegetable tian (layered beets, turnips, etc), potatoes, turnovers, and a spinach salad. Dave made an apple pie, Donna brought a trifle, Jonathan a pumpkin pie, and Nancy a Lenzertorte!

With big crowd, and only a couple really caring about wine, I didn't bring out real cellar treasures. But I put out a long lineup, and let those who cared about wine choose a bottle or two:

2004 Pinon Vouvray Brut (magnum)
Just lovely bubbly for my tastes. Citrus and applle, Parker House rolls, nice length, fine mousse, both elegant and sturdy. B+/A-

2003 La Lecciaia Brunello di Montalcino (magnum)
This was chosen earlier and had some time in decanter, was at its best hours later. Full bodied, quite ripe, but good acidity considering vintage. Floral note, red cherries, a bit of cedar and vanilla. B+/B

1988 Louis Latour Corton
Dave's pick, as it was his birthyear. Unfortunately for the wine, I don't think as much care was expended on the wine as Dave. Some old seepage under capsule, and this was cooked. Pruney, maderized, a couple of people actually liked it though. C

1983 Gruaud Larose
Andy's pick. My WOTN. Cordier funk was too much for one person, but a pleasant accent for me. Cassis fruit, cigarbox, and cow pasture. Good length, holds up well over entire evening. What mature St Julien should be. A-/B+

2004 Finca Allende Rioja (magnum)
Ron's pick, and several people's favorite. For me it was too sweet, with the red cherry fruit invaded by the dreaded blueberry jam. Some vanilla from the oak, quite popular with others. C+

I proposed 2 styles of dessert wine, votes for each, so opened two half bottles:

1997 Quinta do Passadouro Vintage Port(375)
Medium bodied, spices and caramel, ok length, not especially tannic. B

2001 Milz Laurentiushof Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling Eiswein (375)
This was a cheap recent purchase, I don't think the producer is especially well regarded. This however was a bargain, tropical/papaya fruit dappled with citrus, crisp laserlike acidity. Not real long, not the best icewine I've ever had, but at  $20 plus vig wish I had gotten more. B+

Nice time, but I was up past midnight doing dishes/glasses! Not fun getting up to come to work on a day others took off. Still, I felt blessed to spend day with good family, good friends, good food, and (mostly) good wine. Happy Holidays!


Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.
 
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Bruce Hayes

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Re: WTN: Christmas Wines

by Bruce Hayes » Fri Dec 26, 2008 9:09 pm

"Still, I felt blessed to spend day with good family, good friends, good food, and (mostly) good wine."

To paraphrase the great Linus Van Pelt: "That what Christmas is all about, Charlie Brown."

All the best to you and yours.
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Re: WTN: Christmas Wines

by AlexR » Sat Dec 27, 2008 2:38 pm

Dale, can you please explain the difference between Le Corton from Louis Latour and Corton Grancey?

What a confusing appellation, including the sub-appellations Le Corton blanc and Charlemagne (all on its lonesome).

Happy holidays to you,
All the best,
Alex
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Re: WTN: Christmas Wines

by Marc D » Sat Dec 27, 2008 3:11 pm

Dale that is the second positive note I've read this week on the '04 Pinon sparkler. I will have to find some, maybe for New Years.

I tried an '01 Milz Spatlese not that long ago, it was the Trittenheimer Altarchen.
While it wasn't a tip top example of what Mosel can do, I thought it was pretty enjoyable with apple and slate flavors. My only quibble was it seemed a little fat and didn't have the dreamy balance of some of the other 2001 Mosel Rieslings.

Happy holidays to you.
Marc Davis
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Re: WTN: Christmas Wines

by Jenise » Sat Dec 27, 2008 3:21 pm

Marc D wrote:Dale that is the second positive note I've read this week on the '04 Pinon sparkler. I will have to find some, maybe for New Years.



Marc, if you run across it locally, do hollar. I'd love to find that one, too. We've been enjoying the NV L'Aulee chenin sparkler from the Loire for around $15 as an everyday bubbly, great fruit and body though lacking the finesse of a Huet Petillant or the Pinon.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Re: WTN: Christmas Wines

by Marc D » Sat Dec 27, 2008 3:26 pm

Hi Jenise, Happy Holidays to you.
If I see the Pinon I'll let you know. Brad L from Seattle said he tried it also and loved it so maybe it is in town.
There is a very good sparkler around that is well worth trying, the Tissot Cremant du Jura. 100% Chardonnay, it is great.
Marc Davis
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Dale Williams

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Re: WTN: Christmas Wines

by Dale Williams » Sat Dec 27, 2008 11:49 pm

AlexR wrote:Dale, can you please explain the difference between Le Corton from Louis Latour and Corton Grancey?
What a confusing appellation, including the sub-appellations Le Corton blanc and Charlemagne (all on its lonesome).


Alex,
I'm no expert. But here's what I think is the truth:

Corton is a huge grand cru. There are quite a few recognized lieu-dits within the appellation. They have the option of being named. Wine grown in the Le Corton lieu-dit cru can be called Le Corton, or just Corton. Wine grown in the Clos du Roi lieu-dit can be called Corton Clos du Roi, or just Corton. Wine grown in the Grancey lieu-dit cru can be called Corton Grancey, or just Corton. Ditto Pougoets, Bressandes,Renardes, etc. A bit like how Chambertin CdB can be labelled CCdB or just Chambertin.

I think Corton-Charlemagne is nearby, but a separate appellation (though as you note there can be Le Corton blanc from the mostly red Corton)

Marc,
I'm planning on getting a couple more of these mags of the Pinon, good QPR and fun
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Saina

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Re: WTN: Christmas Wines

by Saina » Sun Dec 28, 2008 10:18 am

Dale Williams wrote:
AlexR wrote:Dale, can you please explain the difference between Le Corton from Louis Latour and Corton Grancey?
What a confusing appellation, including the sub-appellations Le Corton blanc and Charlemagne (all on its lonesome).


Alex,
I'm no expert. But here's what I think is the truth:

Corton is a huge grand cru. There are quite a few recognized lieu-dits within the appellation. They have the option of being named. Wine grown in the Le Corton lieu-dit cru can be called Le Corton, or just Corton. Wine grown in the Clos du Roi lieu-dit can be called Corton Clos du Roi, or just Corton. Wine grown in the Grancey lieu-dit cru can be called Corton Grancey, or just Corton. Ditto Pougoets, Bressandes,Renardes, etc. A bit like how Chambertin CdB can be labelled CCdB or just Chambertin.

I think Corton-Charlemagne is nearby, but a separate appellation (though as you note there can be Le Corton blanc from the mostly red Corton)

Marc,
I'm planning on getting a couple more of these mags of the Pinon, good QPR and fun


Oh no! These French wine names are so complicated. I don't think I'll ever touch a French wine again; I'll only drink German wines since they have logical, easy to understand labels. :twisted:
I don't drink wine because of religious reasons ... only for other reasons.
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Dale Williams

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Re: WTN: Christmas Wines

by Dale Williams » Sun Dec 28, 2008 10:33 am

I was wrong! I emailed a more expert friend, he says that while my explanation is correct for Bressandes, Pougets, Greves, Clos du Roi, etc., my longstanding assumption that Grancey was another lieu-dit is incorrect. It is a proprietary name that has a special historical dispensation to be on label. Yak Shaya seems to agree:

http://www.yakshaya.com/beaune.htm#aloxe

You learn something new every day!
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Re: WTN: Christmas Wines

by AlexR » Sun Dec 28, 2008 10:44 am

Dale,

If Corton Grancey and Louis Latour "Corton" both have the same appellation ("Le Corton Grand Cru"), why then does Latour sell the wine under two different labels?

Otto wrote:
"Oh no! These French wine names are so complicated. I don't think I'll ever touch a French wine again; I'll only drink German wines since they have logical, easy to understand labels"

Logical, perhaps but:
- frighteningly long
- impossible to pronounce!

Best regards,
Alex R.
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Dale Williams

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Re: WTN: Christmas Wines

by Dale Williams » Sun Dec 28, 2008 1:04 pm

From Latour site, it seems the Grancey is a special selection. It also sounds like the Grancey is from domaine holdings:
http://www.louislatour.com/pages/index. ... &id_vin=51

The regular Latour Corton is definitely negociant.

Please note that neither is Le Corton, but the more general Corton GC.

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