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WTN: Sippage

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Florida Jim

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WTN: Sippage

by Florida Jim » Tue Dec 09, 2008 7:41 am

2005 Clos de la Roilette, Fleurie Cuvée Tardive:
When first opened, simply too much for me. Recorked and left on the counter overnight. 24 hours later it’s a superb, old-viney Fleurie with a core of focused flavors and burgeoning complexity. Lots of concentration here and plenty of stuffing to last the decade or so it probably needs. Still, with a little air, mighty fine.

2005 Foreau, Vouvray Sec:
Pretty fruit on the nose but, on the palate, too early to the glass when first opened. Recorked and put back in the cellar. All wool aromatically on day two but better in the mouth with ripe chenin fruit, a strong mineral undercurrent and a lanolin note; intense and long. Needs a lot of cellar time.

2005 Cellar Magic, Sauvignon Blanc:
Made by friends in Sonoma from Amador County fruit. Vinous, no grassy or cat pee smells, pleasant citrus and some tropical hints, 13.5 abv with a crisp, clean delivery. Good with lighter fare or on its own.

2005 de Villaine, Bourgogne (blanc) Les Clous:
Great wine, young wine; ideal balance, lovely mineral tones amid equally charming fruit. Obviously, will benefit from cellaring. $25; ‘stealing.

2007 Dönnhoff, Riesling:
This is the bottom-end Estate riesling from this producer but one would have a tough time convincing me there is anything bottom-end about it. Bright, clean riesling scents with a lightly honeyed tone, some flint and spring water; lightly sweet in the mouth but plenty of mineral driven acidity - lovely balance, nuanced flavors – some fresh cherry/cherry pit, excellent length. Imagine you are very thirsty and you get that first taste of mountain stream water; that’s the feeling this delivers with each sip. A fascinating wine and one with a future, no doubt. 10% abv.

Best, Jim
Jim Cowan
Cowan Cellars
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David M. Bueker

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Re: WTN: Sippage

by David M. Bueker » Tue Dec 09, 2008 8:20 am

Thank you Jim. I will heed your comments & bury my Roilette Tardive.

The Donnhoff has always been a fascinating wine to cellar for a few (or several) years. I recall buying a half case of the '96 for a song, and having it drink well for about 6 years. That vintage did not have the balance that the 2007 has, so I would expect an even more pleasing result over the ensuing 5-8 years. If there is one thing 2007 has in spades it is balance.
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Re: WTN: Sippage

by Florida Jim » Tue Dec 09, 2008 3:35 pm

David M. Bueker wrote:Thank you Jim. I will heed your comments & bury my Roilette Tardive.

The Donnhoff has always been a fascinating wine to cellar for a few (or several) years. I recall buying a half case of the '96 for a song, and having it drink well for about 6 years. That vintage did not have the balance that the 2007 has, so I would expect an even more pleasing result over the ensuing 5-8 years. If there is one thing 2007 has in spades it is balance.


David,
Donnhoff has pretty much priced themselves out of my reach (I am envious of your 2001 stash) so this is the only bottling I will bother with anymore.
The 2007 seems to me to be just a "bit more" than previous vintages (even the 2001); more flavor, more charm, more structure, more balance, more length. Have you tried it yet and, if so, what were your impression vis-a-vis other vintages (other than 1996)?
Best, Jim
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Salil

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Re: WTN: Sippage

by Salil » Tue Dec 09, 2008 3:38 pm

I just bought a bottle of that 07 Donnhoff a few days ago at Crush. After reading your note I'm almost certain it'll be open before the weekend. Thanks. :D

BTW Jim, did you try the regular 05 Estate Riesling?
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Re: WTN: Sippage

by Florida Jim » Tue Dec 09, 2008 6:02 pm

Salil Benegal wrote:BTW Jim, did you try the regular 05 Estate Riesling?


I can't remember which means probably not.
You?
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Re: WTN: Sippage

by David M. Bueker » Tue Dec 09, 2008 9:18 pm

Jim,

2007 is likely the most "charming" vintage since 1997 or so. That has made numerous wines significantly more accessible than in prior vintages. While I do not feel that this will lead to ultimately greater heights, nor to greater longevity than in other top years, it should lead to wines that drink well through most of their lives.

The 2007 Donnhoff Estate Riesling follows this trait.

As for pricing, Herr Donnhoff is not significantly richer these days.
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Re: WTN: Sippage

by Salil » Tue Dec 09, 2008 10:20 pm

Florida Jim wrote:I can't remember which means probably not.
You?
Best, Jim

Yes - had it (at almost the same price), and enjoyed it thoroughly. Just really delicious, elegant Riesling with really pure, clean fruit and great balance. Was just curious if you had any comparisons to make between those two. Either way, I'm sure I'll find out soon.
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Re: WTN: Sippage

by Florida Jim » Tue Dec 09, 2008 11:05 pm

David M. Bueker wrote:As for pricing, Herr Donnhoff is not significantly richer these days.


No surprise.
I'm guessing Terry isn't buying Ferraris either.
Best, Jim
Jim Cowan
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Re: WTN: Sippage

by AlexR » Wed Dec 10, 2008 4:40 am

Jim,

Thanks, as always, for your notes.

Also, I thought the title of your post was great!

All the best,
Alex R.
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Re: WTN: Sippage

by ChaimShraga » Sat Mar 14, 2009 9:48 am

Well, I finally tasted the 2006 Villaine Les Clos and it is truly wonderful, if only for the gorgeously flinty nose. And I'm sure the palate will match it in time. I went back to the store the other day with a friend and got the owner to give us a 10% discount for cleaning out his stock of the 2006 Villaine whites and reds to make room for the upcoming 2007. I am such a nice guy, helping him out like that.
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