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WTN: 3 good wines (St Julien, Beaune,and Etna)

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Dale Williams

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WTN: 3 good wines (St Julien, Beaune,and Etna)

by Dale Williams » Mon Dec 08, 2008 10:16 am

Saturday I was in charge of dinner as Betsy had a rehearsal in city till 6. In between trips to office, I put together a salad of red lentils and lamb (vaguely Indian-ish flavors). About 5 I realized that I was serving a cold salad as a main course on a cold night with the possibility of snow; that seemed just wrong. So I quickly soaked some dried mushrooms, sliced some Napa cabbage, and put both in some duck broth as a first course. Wine was the 2007 Tenuta delle Terre Nere Etna Rosso. I've only discovered the Etna wines in last year or two, this is quite different than my personal (uninformed) epitome of the area, the delicious Biondi Outis. The Terre Nere is quite light bodied, with a hint of a green/herby/geranium/floral taste that I often get from Loire gamay. Fruit is strawberries and slightly underripe red plums, the floral note fades and gives way to a more earthy/mineral edge. This is a bright and fun wine, but without the Burgundian elegance and depth of the Biondi. Quite enjoyable, though. B

Betsy had a meeting in city putting together a program Sunday, our friend Oswaldo was in town. Betsy hated to miss him, but our best plan was my dropping her and meeting Oswaldo. Best plan for me at least, because he is a great host and had some nice cheeses and two wines (from half bottles) to taste!

2004 Albert Morot "Bressandes" Beaune 1er
I had passed on some older Morot a couple months ago because I really wasn't familar with producer. If this is an example, I goofed. Very nice midbodied Beaune, rich dark cherry fruit tempered with good acidity and a ferric mineral note. Stylistically I'd put this in the middle, there good extraction and a little cocoa note that is probably oak, but nowhere near over the top. Quite lovely. B+/A-

2004 Ducru-Beaucaillou
Fairly aromatically shy, but a forward lush texture. This is a bit closed down since I last tasted (just after release), but there is clean sweet cassis fruit kissed by some oak and a graphite/pencil lead note. I don't enjoy as much as the Burg this night, but that's more a function of the stage than anything. Probably a B on this night, but good potential.

Fun seeing the generous Oswaldo. After this, I picked up Betsy after her meeting and we stopped by Katzs for pastrami and corned beef sandwiches, with a knish on the side. Yum!

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.
 
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Mark S

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Re: WTN: 3 good wines (St Julien, Beaune,and Etna)

by Mark S » Mon Dec 08, 2008 10:33 am

Dale Williams wrote:...2007 Tenuta delle Terre Nere Etna Rosso. I've only discovered the Etna wines in last year or two, this is quite different than my personal (uninformed) epitome of the area, the delicious Biondi Outis. The Terre Nere is quite light bodied, with a hint of a green/herby/geranium/floral taste that I often get from Loire gamay. Fruit is strawberries and slightly underripe red plums, the floral note fades and gives way to a more earthy/mineral edge. This is a bright and fun wine, but without the Burgundian elegance and depth of the Biondi. Quite enjoyable, though. B


Dale, do you think this might be due to vintage? I haven't seen the 2007's yet, but have enjoyed the 2004 & 05 Calderara Sottana from Terre Nere finding them quite hardy. I know lableing has recently changed, that the Caldera Sottana is more of a cru wine now instead of merely the basic bottling, along with the Feudo di Mezzo and the Guardiola. It sound like you had the basic bottling, which is now simply called the Etna Rosso. What was the price on this one? Do you think it's a bargain compared to the cru wines, which are now approaching $40/bottle?


2004 Albert Morot "Bressandes" Beaune 1er
I had passed on some older Morot a couple months ago because I really wasn't familar with producer. If this is an example, I goofed. Very nice midbodied Beaune, rich dark cherry fruit tempered with good acidity and a ferric mineral note. Stylistically I'd put this in the middle, there good extraction and a little cocoa note that is probably oak, but nowhere near over the top. Quite lovely. B+/A-


Since my introduction to Burgundy wines, I have always liked this producer, having first tried them with the 1985 vintage and perhaps only been disappointed by one 2001which was in a closed stage. Fair prices, traditional winemaking, and decent wines, what's not to like? Glad you found them, although I think a little more new oak is being used there than during the 80's and 90's.
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Oswaldo Costa

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Re: WTN: 3 good wines (St Julien, Beaune,and Etna)

by Oswaldo Costa » Mon Dec 08, 2008 10:54 am

It was good to see you, Dale. I was having so much fun talking winespeak and listening to you that, ironically, I didn't pay very much attention to the wines themselves except to note that both were medium throttle (just right for me) and classy-delicious in strikingly different ways, even though the Ducru has a ways to go before it delivers what it is capable of.
"I went on a rigorous diet that eliminated alcohol, fat and sugar. In two weeks, I lost 14 days." Tim Maia, Brazilian singer-songwriter.
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Dale Williams

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Re: WTN: 3 good wines (St Julien, Beaune,and Etna)

by Dale Williams » Mon Dec 08, 2008 2:36 pm

Mark S wrote: the Caldera Sottana is more of a cru wine now instead of merely the basic bottling, along with the Feudo di Mezzo and the Guardiola. It sound like you had the basic bottling, which is now simply called the Etna Rosso. What was the price on this one? Do you think it's a bargain compared to the cru wines, which are now approaching $40/bottle?


I've not tried the crus, so no comparative opinion. This just says Rosso, I assume the basic. Good wine, but I'd rather spend a few dollars more forthe Biondi.

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