Speaking of Gamay

I read Robin's post on the Nouveau from duPeuble, and felt disloyal to Kermit for not liking it more than I did (and I really didn't like it, even a little bit). But I just opened an '07 Beaujolais from Cedric Vincent (AOC: Beaujolais), that is just marvelous! From what I recall of Kermit's December mailer, it's organically farmed, low-yield vines, and it's clearly made by someone who has the utmost respect for his raw material.
It's joyously nervy, vivid, and thrilling in a way that too few wines exhibit, these days. Gamay, like Mourvedre, has, innately, a very direct character, easily dismissed as simple, but, in the best of the wines, belying great depth. ("Droit" is the descriptor, in French.) It shares another trait with Mourvedre, as well, the descriptor for which is "alimentaire;" it stimulates the appetite, and makes the food go down nicely. And a third common feature? Mulberries! This Vincent version is rolling in Mulberries! There's a nice helping of pretty tannin, likely a sign of mature vines, and, from the nose through the taste, the lovely perfume of violets. This is a wine worthy of the finest table, and it wasn't dear.

Interesting comparisons of gamay and mourvedre. Would have never thought of it. But I guess I don't drink much mourvedre.

There isn't that much Mourvedre to drink, but I've been pretty focussed on each variety, at different points in my wine history. Stylistically they're way different, and they ripen at opposite ends of the season. I think it's true of both that if they're not planted in the right spot, and farmed with great care and devotion, the resulting wines aren't much to write home about, but if they are they can quicken the pulse, and rivet the attention in a most impressive way.

[David M. Bueker]

Two grapes I love and don't get enough of.