by Dale Williams » Wed Dec 03, 2008 11:09 am
Matt and Paul organized a little look at the 2005 Bordeaux vintage last night at North Square by NYU. A nice private room (once you figured out where to go), nice group of winegeeks, nice evening.
I had volunteered to bring a starter, and wrapped the 1996 Francois Cotat "Les Culs de Beaujeu" Sancerre, as I felt old SB would be a fun test. Unfortunately this had a nose of old apple peels, and there was no discernible varietal character strong enough to make it through the oxidation.
However, knowing the Sancerre might be over the hill, I had brought a backup, the 2000 Trimbach "Cuvee Frederic Emile" Riesling. A bit more ripe/tropical than the 2001 I had recently, full-bodied, peaches and mango over a subtle edge of petrol. Long and fresh, I liked this a lot, it would have been a challenger for WOTN for me if we included in voting. A bit of infanticide. I took the scant remainders home for my wife, who loves Riesling. A-
On to the reds, in flights of 2 or 3
2005 Fleur Cardinale
Lots of tannins, lots of fruit and oak but surprisingly short. Very low acid, seems a bit heavy on palate. B-
2005 Beausejour Duffau
Much more acidity than the Fleur Cardinale, I felt more balanced. Big dark berry fruit, a lot of tannin but seemingly finer tannins than the FC, good length. I liked this, my third favorite red of the night. B+/A-
2005 Haut Brisson
(I think from conversation this said Reserve, but people seemed to agree there is only one wine). Medium bodied, striving for elegance though some slightly raspy tannins. Nice if not compelling. B
2005 Clinet
My red WOTN (and group's). At least one person felt it overripe, but to me it seemed typical ripe vintage Pomerol, though surprisingly forward. I'd call mid-modern, the oak is there contributing some mocha notes, but not overwhelming. I'm not sure I'd hold this for a long time, but a very nice wine A-
2005 Lucia
Ripe, jammy, not especially Bordeaux-ish to me (or anyone else). While some felt it reminded them of California, others of us voted for Italian Cabernet or Merlot (I think in a flight with Desiderio or Montiano this might have fit right in, though jammier). B-
2005 Haut Bailly
I thought this had some real Graves character, showed balance and had good length. Tannins more manageable than in some of the other wines, moderate acidity, very good length. I voted my second favorite of the night. A-/B+
2005 Smith Haut Lafitte
This seemed oaky, with a pronounced vanilla edge I didn't care for. Ripe and a bit boring. B-
2005 Pontet Canet
Big cassis fruit, a wall of tannins, this is impressive as to size, though a bit monolithic. B/B+
2005 Behere
Wow, a Pauillac I've never heard of! More herby than other wines, but in a pleasant way. Red and black currants, a little lead pencil, old style. Not huge (especially next to the PC), but with good structure. B
2005 Grand Puy Lacoste
Medium bodied, good length, some little hints of cigarbox and earth. B
2005 Leoville Poyferre
Big and ripe, rather typical recent Poyferre. Dark fruit with a little chocolate, rather oaky, but solid body underneath. B+
2005 Kirwan
Very modern, jammy, vanilla. A nice CalCab! B
2005 d'Issan
This has an acidic spine that others found offputting, but I rather liked. Rather muted fruit, some tough tannins, ok but I actually think I liked the $25 '04 as much at same stage. Time will tell.B
There was also a nice Coutet, but I was wiped out and didn't take any notes as I scurried to make an early train. With the exception of maybe the Lucia, Fleur Cardinale and SHL, I wouldn't mind owning any of these wines, but nothing compelled me to go to Winesearcher when I got home last night. Of course, this might be an awkward time. Those tannins were rather daunting. Still, a fun evening with a good group.
Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.