WTN: Fine Languedoc Syrah, declining Côte Rôtie, etc.

Coteaux du Languedoc Montpeyroux Côte Dorée 1999 – Domaine l’Aiguelière was superior to the bottle of 1998 opened a few months ago and, indeed, a rare example of a Languedoc wine achieving real distinction. This cuvée is Syrah old vine dominated and it showed delicious cherry liqueur tinted black fruit aromas with a faint but lovely touch of varnish, a quite full-bodied and caressingly velvety mouth-feel and resolved structure with a classically elegant shape on the palate and good length; 17/20+.

Côtes du Roussillon Villages Les Calcinaires 2006 – Domaine Gauby (red), as always, showed elegance and fresh purity of red fruit unusual for the region allied to tobacco and pepper notes on a full body with generous mouth-fill; however, after the first sip a curried sauce swamped its finer points; a heavier and sweeter more traditional Roussillon might have lost less; 16/20.

Chiant Classico Felsina Beradenga 2003 – Fattoria di Felsina showed sweeter and more ingratiating fruit and more fat than usual but none of the candied notes which spoil a lot of 03s and enough of its usual acidity and tang to remain a fine food wine; 16/20.

Saumur “Faucon Noir 1003” 2003 – Domaine du Pas Saint-Martin was made from organically grown grapes, Cabernet-Sauvignon according to the wine merchant, and showed almost caricatural black currant aromas with a strong resinous note, a full body and somewhat green tannins towards the finish; rather one dimensional; 14/20.

I bought these bottles of Côte Rôtie 1991 – Clusel Roch as bin-ends and I think that they would have been at their best three or four years ago. The aromas were round and rich with a lot of quite sweet cherry but there was an over-ripe hint and a loss of purity; the palate was full and velvety but there was a lack of freshness, focus and grip with a pasty note towards the finish; none of this was helped by the wine having become too warm as conversation extended before dinner; 15/20+. A second bottle, though even warmer, was better with a tad more grip and less pastiness; 15.5/20. Rather surprisingly, the Aiguelière was a much better standard bearer for French Syrah.

[David M. Bueker]

I skipped the 2003 Felsina CC & moved directly to the 2004 in my tiny Italian section of the wine cellar. While I am glad to hear it was very good, I guess I should not be all that surprised given that it's Felsina.

Domaine Gauby

Wonder why this name rings a bell? La Soula?

The very same Gauby. This one is from his own estate where he has been working on making a less alcoholic and more elegant and digestible style of wine from this warm region. His whites are especially remarkable for that climate. The Wine Doctor report looks a few years old.

Tim thinks....The Wine Doctor report looks a few years old. You are right, some TNs are from years back but one has to wonder how these bloggers find the time to do all this! Chris is a doctor I believe which makes it even more amazing that he finds the time.
(I feel that reading the old TNs can still give the reader an impression of say the house style).

(I feel that reading the old TNs can still give the reader an impression of say the house style).

I would agree with you normally, Bob, but Gauby has been transforming his style, as Wine Doctor acknowledges, and the last vintage reviewed by him is 2002. It would be very interesting to have his update. This is no criticism because I realize that he has heavy professional commitments.

I hope that Gauby gets invited again soon to one of his importers' tastings.

Point taken, thanks Tim.

Picked up some nasty weather here today, minus 40 tonite! Port drinking time eh. `97 Noval LBV.