WTN: 2 Chateauneuf du Papes

Last night, we met Charles and Ursula of Paumanok Winery, and Ray and Fran, who drove 1 1/4 hours from Manhasset, for dinner at a restaurant not far from the winery.

Without planning, Charles and I each brought a Chateauneuf du Pape. Ray, who is a hardcore California syrah and cab drinker, brought a syrah.

We started with the CdPs. The 1998 Bosquet des Papes Chante Le Merle Vieilles Vignes that Charles brought was the showier of the of the 2. The other being my 2000 Pegau. The Bosquet des Papes burst open with ripe fruit, tricking us into thinking it was a baby. Roasted meat and herbs followed through - a beauty. Fast forward 2 hours, the remaining wine in my glass had lost its fruit. However, a little while later, another pour showed some of that original intensity. Puzzling, but quite enjoyable.

2000 Pegau - At first whiff, I was glad that it didn't show brett, which I have noticed in the past, although Charles thought he detected some. Strong Asian spices framed a core of ripe, sweet fruit. Tannins were soft. After a couple of hours, the spice receded with more fruit showing. Started out good, but turned out better.

2006 Eric Kent "Big Boy" Syrah - Clearly, this is not my style of wine. Big and sweet with searing alcohol. Now, it is monolithic - I wonder if it will show some complexity as it ages. There are some California syrahs that I enjoy. I had a 2001 Havens Hudson Vineyard over the summer that I loved. I enjoy Radio Coteau Timbervine and there might be one or two others. We saved this wine for the end as there was no dish that it could complement. When I want a syrah, it is usually a Rhone that I crave. Thankfully, there were two very good Rhones last night.

[David M. Bueker]

Thanks for the note on the 2000 Pegau. I've never had a brett problem with that vintage (unlike the 1999), so I would have expected a clean wine. It's always been a soft wine. Sounds like it needs a decant though.

I did have one undrinkable, due to brett, 2000 Pegau a few years ago. On the other hand, I have not had a 1999 Pegau that was troubled by brett. I believe there is quite a bit of bottle variation with Pegau. Any idea what their production is?

[David M. Bueker]

Any idea what their production is?

No. I'm sure there are numerous, conflicting, authoritative accounts on eBob though.

Any idea what their production is?

I'm not an authority and never will, and since I am online as I read your post, I tooka quick glance at their website and, accordingly, their annual Pegau "Reserved" production is 75,000 bottles.

2006 Eric Kent "Big Boy" Syrah - Clearly, this is not my style of wine. Big and sweet with searing alcohol. Now, it is monolithic - I wonder if it will show some complexity as it ages. There are some California syrahs that I enjoy. I had a 2001 Havens Hudson Vineyard over the summer that I loved. I enjoy Radio Coteau Timbervine and there might be one or two others. We saved this wine for the end as there was no dish that it could complement. When I want a syrah, it is usually a Rhone that I crave. Thankfully, there were two very good Rhones last night.

Dianne, I am not a huge California syrah fan, but if you get a chance to try any of the Edmunds St. Johns (ESJ) syrahs, then do yourself a favor and buy them. Honestly they are some of the best stuff coming out of California, regardless of price.

Dianne, I am not a huge California syrah fan, but if you get a chance to try any of the Edmunds St. Johns (ESJ) syrahs, then do yourself a favor and but them. Honestly they are some of the best stuff coming out of California, regardless of price.

Robert,

Have you tried Novy or Cedarville? Both make nice California Syrah IMHO. I'm not sure if Arrowood still makes a Saralee's, but that was always interesting as well.

We started with the CdPs. The 1998 Bosquet des Papes Chante Le Merle Vieilles Vignes that Charles brought was the showier of the of the 2. The other being my 2000 Pegau. The Bosquet des Papes burst open with ripe fruit, tricking us into thinking it was a baby. Roasted meat and herbs followed through - a beauty. Fast forward 2 hours, the remaining wine in my glass had lost its fruit. However, a little while later, another pour showed some of that original intensity. Puzzling, but quite enjoyable.

I find the 1998 Chantemerle (I was under the impression that it changed to "Chante Le Merle" with the 1999 vintage) really quite undrinkable. For me there is no freshness to the fruit at all, it's all soy sauce and balsamic, meat and animal fur, hot and baked fruit. Every time I have tasted it, it is the same. I like secondary and non-fruit characteristic in wine, but these wines just taste over-ripe, raisined and volatile to me. The straight Bosquet de Papes CdP displays similar character, although noting quite so over the top, and so I prefer it. I tasted both within the last week.

[David M. Bueker]

I've only ever tasted the '98 Chantemerle (indeed the name change was for 1999 - though some late release bottles have the new name) once & found it very ripe and raisiny, but the 1999 is delicious. Of course 1999 was a "fresher" vintage, and I happened to like its particular charms. It's a shame we do not get years like 1999 anymore.

Chris - very often, different bottles mean different wines. The Chantemerle Charles brought was nothing like the bottle you drank. As I said, it had a freshness that astounded us from a 1998 vintage. I preferred the Pegau, but the Bosquet des Papes was very nice until it changed gears and lost its fruit. Did you decant your bottle? We did not, and it drank best just after pouring.

Bob - I forgot about ESJ - I haven't had a bottle in a couple of years, but I very much like his style. Thanks for the reminder.