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WTN: Old Cabernet Tasting

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David Z

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WTN: Old Cabernet Tasting

by David Z » Mon Nov 24, 2008 12:45 am

I cleaned out my (tiny) cellar for a tasting with fellow members of my law school's wine club.

Flight 1: Introductory Wines

2004 Justin Cabernet Sauvignon: Red berry fruit, low acid, jammy, lots of vanilla, very pronounced alcohol on the nose and palette. Not my style.

2005 Joguet Chinon “Les Varennes du Grand Clos": Decanted for 30 min. Opaque and purple, with some initial brett that blew off. Identifiably cab franc from the first whiff, with a distinct herbal note, but surprising density of blackberry fruit and deep tannnins. Acidic, but not as lean or thin as Loire wines can tend to be. Improved throughout the tasting, as it opened up and got a more fruited nose.

Support from the group as a whole was split roughly 50/50 b/w the two wines, but as people revisted the Chinon it got more raves.

Flight 2: California Cabs (Decanted immediately prior to serving)

1986 Robert Mondavi Reserve: Orangey red to orange at the edges. Cherry fruit, some caramel notes, mushrooms, fine, but still noticable tannins. This was very good at first, but fell apart quickly as the tasting progressed as it lost fruit and gained what one taster called "those bad mushroom smells".

1986 Laurel Glen Estate: Initially very similar to the Mondavi in color, nose, and taste, except that it had slightly less fruit and slightly more "forest floor" aromas.... but as the tasting progressed, the Laurel Glen became exponentially more fruited and filled out, and by the end, it was blowing the doors off the Mondavi and was the 2nd favorite wine for most of the group.

In this flight, the Laurel Glen beat the Mondavi 7-3.

Flight 3: Bordeaux (Decanted immediately prior to serving)

1988 La Lagune: Brick-red and very clear. Like the Laurel Glen, this was initially quite reticent, with some roasted nut and forest floor notes, but dramatically opened up with time to reveal an amazingly intense nose of licorice. Tannins were initially noticeable, but receded to the background as the sweet licorice emerged. Very, very good, got better until the last drop was drunk, and the 3rd favorite wine of most.

1996 Cantemerle: Surprisingly evolved- in terms of color and clarity, it was indistinguishable from the La Lagune. This drank excellently when first opened, with a nice balance of fruit, forest floor, and a smokiness/spice note that was very hard to place, almost like smoked almonds. But unlike the La Lagune, it didn't really evolve in the glass; it didn't fall apart either, but just plodded along in a very good, but sort of unexciting way. At the end of the tasting, we had more Cantemerle left over than any wine but the Justin.

The La Lagune was the easy winner of this flight, 8-2. The Bordeaux flight was preferred to the Cal Cabs, 7-3.

Flight 4: One more Bordeaux

1983 Lynch-Bages: The obvious, and consensus, wine of the night. Red fruit and licorice on the nose, mint, cedar, integrated tannins, with depth, intensity, and a long aftertaste. Delicious. Can't tell you how it evolved because it was the last wine poured, and first bottle finished.


My personal ranking:
1. Lynch-Bages
2. La Lagune
3. Laurel Glen
4. Cantemerle
5. Joguet
6. Mondavi
7. Justin.
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Re: WTN: Old Cabernet Tasting

by wrcstl » Mon Nov 24, 2008 4:32 pm

Thanks for the notes. I have the '96 Cantemerle in the cellar and have not opened a bottle yet. Doesn't sound encouraging.
Walt
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Re: WTN: Old Cabernet Tasting

by David M. Bueker » Mon Nov 24, 2008 4:38 pm

Cantemerle: plodding, unexciting.

Yep, sounds like Cantemerle.
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Re: WTN: Old Cabernet Tasting

by David Z » Mon Nov 24, 2008 5:36 pm

wrcstl wrote:Thanks for the notes. I have the '96 Cantemerle in the cellar and have not opened a bottle yet. Doesn't sound encouraging.
Walt


I bought the Cantemerle in the past 6 months, so I can't guarantee that it was in representative shape, but I will say this: the bottle and cork were in impeccable shape. If this bottle was characteristic, then I wouldn't wait too much longer to crack one open.
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Re: WTN: Old Cabernet Tasting

by Jenise » Mon Nov 24, 2008 8:22 pm

David M. Bueker wrote:Cantemerle: plodding, unexciting.

Yep, sounds like Cantemerle.


Boy, not to me. At least based on the 99, which is spicy and interesting in a real old school kind of way and since I own a case, it's most of my experience with Cantemerle. Otherwise: have also liked the 00 and hated the 03.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Re: WTN: Old Cabernet Tasting

by wrcstl » Mon Nov 24, 2008 9:02 pm

Jenise wrote:
David M. Bueker wrote:Cantemerle: plodding, unexciting.

Yep, sounds like Cantemerle.


Boy, not to me. At least based on the 99, which is spicy and interesting in a real old school kind of way and since I own a case, it's most of my experience with Cantemerle. Otherwise: have also liked the 00 and hated the 03.


Jenise,s
Hate to say it but David does not know what he is talking about. He should stick to Rieslings. Sure hope he is not offended by that, but,what the heck. I also have the '99 plus '89 and '96. I do want to test the '96 since I have not opened this wine yet.
Walt

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