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WTN: Mature Cote-Rotie, Lambrusco & Pavie

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Ian Sutton

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WTN: Mature Cote-Rotie, Lambrusco & Pavie

by Ian Sutton » Sun Nov 23, 2008 4:54 pm

Recent drinking - an obscure set of wines, all older than most would drink them.

1979 Jean Pierre Brotte Côte-Rôtie - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie (11/23/2008)
Slightly wary of this one, as the appellation is not one that's excited me to date (including older versions).

The colour is promising, quite a depp claret, showing some browning at the edge, but not excessively so for it's age (29 years old).

The nose shows plenty of aged complexity, a little stinky, but also balsamic, mushroom/earthiness and a touch of tangerine in the background. Certainly plenty there.

Texturally very soft on the entry and this gives the impression of a slightly earthy canvas on which the rest of the wine is painted. The acidity is well-judged, but seems to sit with the higher notes and separate from the earthy base. What fruit is left is carried with the acidity and it's difficult to separate them. Good (but not great) length to the finish without being powerful.

I like this, but barring picking up the odd bottle cheap when the opportunity arises, I don't think I've yet been swung over as a fan of the appellation.

1971 Château Pavie - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru (11/21/2008)
Still-healthy medium weight claret colour at the core, but showing layers of age at the rim. On the nose smoke/tobacco to the fore, with fruit vaguely in support. On swirling there's an agreeable sweeter facet to the nose, bringing together the aged & bramble-like fruit a touch of caramel and together quite vibrant.

On the palate it's pleasantly mid-weight, with subtle fruit, a touch of earthiness and refreshing but not excessive acidity. Some complexity but let's say the complexity isn't bursting at the seams...

A more than pleasant wine, fading, but fairly interesting and certainly enjoyable to drink

2004 Cleto Chiarli Lambrusco Enrico Cialdini - Italy, Emilia-Romagna, Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro (11/16/2008)
Age has softened the edges a little and provided a touch more complexity, though that's a trade off against the vibrancy of the fruit. For my palate I reckon it equates to similar enjoyment.
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