WTN: Dellchen, Goldloch, Heimbourg, Himmelreich...

[David M. Bueker]

Last night Salil Benegal prepared a lovely Indian meal, and opened some fantastic German (and other) wines for Laura and me. The paneer, cauliflower and biryani were all first rate (the biryani especially so, incredible stuff). Salil needs to be pestered into sharing some of his family recipes in the Forum Kitchen.

We also drank very, very well. My blind tasting skills were utter rubbish last night, but that didn't affect the quality of the wines. You know it's a good night when you can place a top shelf Donnhoff wine fourth in order or preference!

2005 Donnhoff Norheimer Dellchen Riesling Spatlese (Nahe)
This was initially a huge glass of rich fruit and not much else. Blind it certainly did not speak of Donnhoff to me, but of something from a warmer area (e.g. Pfalz). An hour or so later it gained in elegance, minerality and spice. Ultimately it was very fine, but I do think it's just starting to close into its shell, needing a good bit of air to show itself. Drink very soon or wait several years for the next phase of its life.

2002 Schlossgut Diel Dorsheimer Goldloch Riesling Spatlese (Nahe)
This is just beginning the second phase of its life. Subtle smoky and petrol tones are just coming into play, but the wine's full complement of fruit is still evident over a very salty, stony base. Delicious and eclipses the Donnhoff on this night.

1998 Zind-Humbrecht Heimbourg Gewurztraminer Vendange Tardive (Alsace)
Alas for the days when Z-H VT was $45 a bottle. I brought this wine to match with the subtly spicy, and incredibly aromatic & flavorful chicken biryani. It did not disappoint. The spice and pineapple elements of the wine were a perfect compliment to the food, and the sweetness played off the spice. Age has not tamed this wine, but rather added burnished and smoky elements that serve to make it more complex and fascinating. This was Laura's wine of the night, and while I am certain it has even more in store for the future, I would not have wanted to miss what it showed last night.

2006 J. J. Prum Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese (Mosel)
Salil opened this wine on Friday night, decanted it Saturday morning, and served it at about 7:00 PM Saturday night. The air was very beneficial, as only hints of that "Prum stink" remained, and the wine showed not only great richness, but also penetrating minerality. It's a very big auslese & held its own against the Z-H Gewurztraminer. There's not much more to say other than stunning & potentially immortal. My wine of the night.

As if that wasn't enough, Salil generously opened two half bottles for "afters."

1990 Lingenfelder Grosskarlbacher Burgweg Scheurebe Auslese (Pfalz)
This is auslese in its final phase of productive life. Orange peel, clove and smoke initially dominate, and only an hour of air manage to coax out some of that Scheurebe tropical fruit. It's an interesting wine, but more for those who enjoy the final evolution of a wine's life (count me as a fan). Drink up.

1983 Chateau Doisy Daene (Sauternes)
Lighter in color than the Scheurebe (by a shade) and sporting a lively butterscotch aromatic over spice, tangerine and lemon scented honey. This is fully mature yet lively, with more ultimate flavor interest than the Scheurebe and a pleasing end to a fun and fascinating evening.

Thanks again Salil!

1998 Zind-Humbrecht Heimbourg Gewurztraminer Vendange Tardive (Alsace)
Alas for the days when Z-H VT was $45 a bottle. I brought this wine to match with the subtly spicy, and incredibly aromatic & flavorful chicken biryani. It did not disappoint. The spice and pineapple elements of the wine were a perfect compliment to the food, and the sweetness played off the spice. Age has not tamed this wine, but rather added burnished and smoky elements that serve to make it more complex and fascinating. This was Laura's wine of the night, and while I am certain it has even more in store for the future, I would not have wanted to miss what it showed last night.:

I've suspected for some time now that a wine like this (Gewurz VT from Alsace) might be a good pairing for certain Indian dishes. I've tried lots of drier Gewurz over the years, and it always seem to flirt with being a great pairing, but falling short. It seems the VT character maybe brings it to where it needs to be. Thanks, David.

-Michael

That was a really fun evening - was a pleasure having you and Laura over. Really glad you both enjoyed the food, and I thought the wines all showed very nicely. The ZH was a real treat and my personal favourite of the lineup - thanks a lot for bringing that. That was just a stunning wine with a ton of complexity and depth there, and I thought the combination of sweetness and the exotic spiciness made it a perfect match with the food.

The other wines didn't suck either. I thought the Diel was fabulous and drinking superbly - that combination of intensely bright primary fruit and minerality with the petrol and smoke notes that were starting to emerge just blew me away with each sip. Really delicious, and (unfortunately for my wallet) I think I need to buy more Diel. The Spatlesen I've had from him so far have all been really stunning (although I don't see myself running after the GG anytime soon!)
The Donnhoff I felt needed more time - with air that just kept getting better and better with the complexity and minerality slowly coming out. Would be interesting to see how my other bottle of that shows with a LOT more air in advance. The Prum was amazing - a real wow wine, already very complex and layered, and the mouthfeel was quite incredible. For an 06 Auslese it was incredibly elegant, light on its feet and almost seemed polished in terms of texture. I loved how well the three Rieslings went with the meal btw - just another example of how versatile those wines are in terms of matching foods.

The two half bottles at the end were fascinating experiences, especially as I hadn't tasted an Auslese at that stage of its life before. I loved the burnished, smoky elements both those wines showed, although I enjoyed the Doisy Daene a little more for the more forward fruit/complexity it had. A really fun evening though - looking forward to doing it again some time soon (and maybe with a South Indian menu then).