The annual tasting at this mainly Bordeaux and Burgundy importer in Flemish Limburg used to be a high spot in my diary. However, there has been a generation change in the management of the business and, both last year and this, there were both less interesting growers exhibiting and less remarkable wines available for tasting than in former years even though the firm’s catalogue http://www.justinmonardprovino.be/conte ... _11-08.pdf appears just as rich in fine Bordeaux and Burgundy and also has good selections from other regions. Several of the exhibitors were, as last year, showing older vintages mainly; this gives the impression that the firm has an inventory problem.
As usual, there were many more wines on show than I could possibly assimilate. This was my choice.
Bordeaux
2007 barrel samples
Each year, I only taste these out of curiosity because I find them difficult to judge and impossible to enjoy through the undigested oak and searing tannins. This year I enjoyed the four 2007s I tasted even less than their predecessors. Whether this is due to me or the wines, I hesitate to say. They were all ungracious and, with one exception quite short. Labégorce-Zédé was dumb and thin; Chassse-Spleen showed somewhat more amplitude and pleasanter mouth-feel; Sociando-Mallet showed more fruit, substance and structure and Léoville-Barton was also full of substance, harsher with unpleasing caramel notes but decently long. I duck rating them.
Château Phélan-Ségur, Saint-Estèphe, cru bourgeois exceptionnel (in suspended classification)
Frank Phélan 2004 (€19), second wine Merlot dominated, was pretty and quite with an initially pleasant tang which turned slightly bitter towards the finish; 15/20. The “grand vin” 2000 showed a fine upright structure and well shaped palate with complex fragrant fruit and gave a sense of still holding a lot in reserve; 16/20 with ++ potential. By contrast 1999 was at its peak singing in a caressing manner but with less finesse and stuffing than the 2000; 16/20.
Schroder & Schyler, négotiants - http://www.schroder-schyler.com/Accueil/?lg=en
I always enjoy talking to the articulate, Pierre Brousse, with his typically Bordelais elegance. He presents this firm’s wines here and, I think, manages Château Kirwan. Les Charmes de Kirwan Margaux 2005 (€33), Ch. Kirwan’s second wine, impressed me by its supple fruit, complexity and structure which made me regret that there were not more 2005s on show; 16/20+. Château Lousteauneuf cru bourgeois Médoc 2000 (€10) was flowery, very pretty and enhanced by a nice tang; ready 15.5/20+++. By contrast Château Fourcas Hosten cru bourgeois Listrac 2000 (€13) was still clearly holding back behind its complex fruit and solid structure; 16/20 with + potential. Château Pavie-Decesse grand cru classé Saint-Emilion 1997 (€50) was very evolved for its modest 11 years showing a ripe burnished maturity with attractive aromas of old books towards the finish which I think presage imminent decline but very nice right now; 16.5/20 ++ now with – potential. Château Larrivet Haut-Brion grand cru Pessac-Léognan 1998 (€25) was now fully open with nice ivy overtones showing the solid structure of its year; 16/20. Château Sociando-Mallet Haut-Médoc 1999 (€25) was quite open showing more structure than many 99s, rich fruit and length but with a touch of jamminess in its aromas; 16/20.
Vignobles Magrez – Château Pape-Clément
I have written in a separate thread about my dislike for the outrageously woody white Clémentin du Château Pape-Clément 2005 (€48) and white Château Fombrauge 2005(€39,50). Fortunately the reds from Château Fombrauge grand cru Saint-Emilion were much better balanced, if “modern” and quite “international”. 2004 was very ripe and quite jammy but this was well carried by impressive structure and depth; 16/20. 2002 was softer, fresher and less structured with malt touches; 16/20.
Burgundy
There was a rather disappointing line-up considering both the riches in this firm’s portfolio and the quality of the exhibitors in previous years. I was, however, pleased to learn about the first two estates below, which were entirely new to me. The reds here had nothing like the substance and class of those from Jadot and Bouchard P&F which I tasted a few weeks ago.
Domaine Alain Chavy, Puligny-Montrachet
I did not greatly like the basic villages Puligny-Montrachet 2006 (€26) which was quite generous but showed gluey touches and finished rather cloyingly; 13/20. Fortunately Puligny-Montrachet “Les Charmes” 2006 (€29) was much better and cleaner tasting with white meat, fragrance and mineral notes to lift the generosity; 15.5/20++ . Puligny-Montrachet 1er cru “Les Folatières” 2006 (€37) was another step up with greater freshness, finesse, minerality and amplitude; 16/20++.
Domaine Tremblay, Chablis
I do so love the purity of Chablis after the more sophisticated richness of the Côte d’Or. No new wood is used by this estate. Chablis Vieilles Vignes 2006 (€11) was delightfully crisp with the simplicity of pure spring water from the Highlands; 15.5/20++. Chablis 1er cru “Montmain” 2005 (€17) added greater mouth-fill with touches of honey, minerals and a sensation of stones in the brook; 16/20. Chablis 1er cru “Fourchaume” 2005 (€18) added a greater roundness and iodine notes; 16.5/20.
Domaine Maratray-Dubreuil, Chorey-les-Beaune
I first met this estate here two years ago, when the 2003 red Ladoix impressed compared to many other 03s. This year I found their offerings rather under-nourished. Chorey-les-Beaune 2007 (€13) was quite thin; 13/20. Ladoix “Les Nagets” (€16) had more amplitude but was still quite light and was aromatically closed with only light cherry notes; 14.5/20. Aloxe-Corton 2006 (€20) also showed muted cherry notes but more body and structure; 15/20 with + potential.
Domaine Pavelot, Savigny-les-Beaune (“SLB”)
SLB 2004 (€18) was light in colour and body but showed pretty cherry dominated aromas; 14.5/20++. SLB 1er cru “Aux Gravains” 2002 (€23) remained in the light and elegant vein but with more complex tenderness and body than the previous; 15/20. SLB 1er cru “Aux Guettes” 2004 (€20) was quite closed aromatically but showed more body and fruit; 15/20 with + potential. SLB 1er cru “La Dominode” 2004 (€23) was a step up to greater fullness and complexity; 15.5/20 with + potential. SLB 1er cru “Aux Gravains” 2006 was sappy, mineral and elegant; 14.5/20 with + potential. SLB 1er cru “La Dominode” 2006 was closed but with more body and structure than the previous; 14.5/20 with +++ potential. After these Pernand-Vergelesses 1er cru “Les Vergelesses” 2003 (€ 19,50) brought some welcome roundness, richness and hedonism with none of the candied and cooked notes which disfigure many 03s; 16/20.
Rest of France
Domaine Alain Brumont, Madiran
This estate is a regular here and the 1999 and 2002 vintages shown from Montus and Bouscassé had already been on show last year. At the previous day’s tasting, another Madiran exhibitor regaled me with a tale that the Brumont estate is now under bankers’ control following a bankruptcy. I couldn’t help thinking about this as the friendly and articulate presenter, who enjoyed the unusual job title “Sommelier Commercial”, showed the rather populist entry level wines and talked about Montus and Bouscassé now being made in a style for earlier drinking without sacrificing ageing potential. It is therefore a pity that they were not shown in more recent vintages.
Whites
Côtes de Gascogne Gros Manseng-Sauvignon 2007 (€6) showed good freshness and some “gras” spoilt for me by touches of cat’s pee and bonbon; 13/20.
Pacherenc du Vic Bihl sec “Les Jardins de Bouscassé 2006 (€9), made 100% from Petit Courbu, was a much more attractive proposition with aromas of orange peel, fern on a burnished and mineral body; 15/20+
Château Bouscassé “Cuvée Brumaire” Vendange Novembre Pacherenc du Vic Bihl molleux 1999 (€15), 100% Petit Manseng, was a complex burnished and rich wine with attractive white fruit, minerals and secondary notes; 16/20.
Reds
Vin de Pays des Côtes de Gascogne Tannat-Merlot 2005 (€6) was soft, fruity and just saved from sogginess by some tang; 13.5/20.
Madiran “Torus” 2006 (€9) is designed for early drinking and was surprisingly soft for Tannat with an attractive ivy tang; 14.5/20.
Château Bouscassé - Madiran 2002 (€ 8) has opened up since last year and shows complexity and roundness with a touch of liqueur, meat and plum notes and good structure; 16/20 and also a good QPR bargain at its discounted price.
An extra dimension, depth, complexity and length was apparent on Château Bouscassé - Madiran Vieilles Vignes 1999 (€15) which has also opened up since last year with a floral touch emerging as well as leather; 17/20
Montus - Madiran 2002 (€12) is fruity and round, jammier and more supple than Bouscassé, whose frankness I prefer; 15.5/20.
Montus - Madiran Cuvée Prestige 1999 (€18) showed dense and attractive fruit, “sweeter” and more fragrant and perhaps more complex than Bouscassé, with tar hints and a wood patina better integrated than before; 16.5/20. Although I prefer the lesser sophistication of Bouscassé, these are fine wines.
Domaine Paul Ginglinger, Eguisheim, Alsace
This producer aims for a dry style and even in the Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer grands crus where the high potential alcohol makes some RS inevitable, there is a refreshing directness (perhaps gothic grandeur compared to Zind-Humbrecht’s baroque).
Pinot blanc 2005 (€7) was nicely dry but perfumed with honey and minerals; M. Ginglinger considers it ideal with mussels but I prefer something less perfumed like Muscadet; good QPR 15/20. Tokay Pinot Gris “Cuvée des Prélats” 2006 (€11) was comfortingly dry for this usually unctuous grape but delicious and not short on tender richness with white meat touches; 15.5/20++. Tokay Pinot Gris grand cru “Eichberg” 2005 (€14) was burnished with noticeable RS but was beautifully balanced with minerals and acidity and was fresh, clean and not at all cloying in its finish; 16/20+. Gewurztraminer grand cru “Pfersigberg” 2006 allied a similar freshness and cleanness together with mild sweetness, depth and structure to the typically aromatic and spicy lychee of this grape; 16/20+.
For completeness I lift from Wine Focus this longer note on Riesling grand cru “Pfersigberg” 2006(€15) -
N seemed quite muted initially with some simple notes of white fruit with white meat touches but it gradually filled out and at the end the empty glass burst with complex aromas of minerals, white and tropical fruit and some spice.
P impressed with its directness, classical structure, amplitude and length and its tropical fruit mingled with crisp minerality with an attractively bitter touch on an almost “tannic” finish; delicious drinking now and should age beautifully; 16/20+ with ++ potential.