Madiran 1998, Ch. de Perron – initially closed in, with just suggestions of chestnut, iron and cedar that are overshadowed by a charry brett note; medium body, tough dry old-fashioned tannins obscure the other flavors. The next day, the remaining half bottle showed some development, with the pleasant chestnut-cedar notes becoming stronger, supported by minerally claret-like fruit with a long dry tannic finish with a bit of cocoa powder and wood. Old-fashioned and slightly rustic, the brett sticks out currently because Madiran typically doesn’t have a lot of aromatic drama and the wine is still quite hard. I’ll check in again after another 3-5 years. **(**?)
Pinot Noir Elsburg 2004, Willm (Alsace) – initially slightly reduced and funky with a touch of Pinot spice; with air, gamey-meaty and woodsy tones emerge; medium-light body, OK acid, moderate but slightly stemmy and bitter tannin, more game and Pinot spice. Not bad, slightly Jura-like, would probably be quite good with the right food – seared chicken livers on salad, mushrooms on toast with chives, kidneys and the like. **
Syrah Napa Valley Estate Old Vines 2003, Ballentine – the aroma features peppery, slightly raisiney fruit with a char tone; gradually mulberries and plum gather on the very weighty palate, behind a tough veneer of dry dense tannins and a touch of smokey oak; big, heavy and rather grumpy right now. *(**)
Beaune Toussaints 1996, Albert Morot – a maturing Burgundian aroma of Pinot spice, hearth, mushrooms and dried cherry; medium-bodied and somewhat lean on the palate with dead-leaf and cherries plus some rather dry and rustic tannins, distinct acidity. Nice nose, but still displaying the 96 vintage’s lean and hard quality even as it passes through middle age. I suspect this vintage doesn’t play to the Morot style very well. ***
