Was in the mood for Chopin and, typing the following notes, did some comparative listening of his Sonata Funèbre: Alfred Cortot (studio 1933), Samson François (studio 1956), Vladimir Horowitz (studio 1962), Ivan Moravec (studio 2002), Arturo Benedetti Michelangeli (live in London 1959 and Torino 1962), Sergei Rachmaninoff (studio 1930) and Artur Rubinstein (live in Moscow 1964).
The trade tasting took place in Zürich on the 20th of October. Attended it with Oliver, Patrick and Remo, and because there were too many wines and too little time (admittedly also since I tend to run into people I know at trade tastings and chat more than taste), I tried to concentrate on my old love, Vintage Port.
Notes are presented alphabetically, not in the order in which I tasted the wines.
Champalimaud Vintage Port 2001
Berry complexity (clean raisins almost as in modern Recioto) is always impressive here, just not a powerful vintage, this is a tiny bit hot. Rating: 86
Churchill Vintage Port Quinta da Gricha 2001
This has grip, some complexity, good length, and is quite refreshing. Best 2001 VP I have tasted so far. Rating: 89+/90?
Quinta do Crasto Late Bottled Vintage Port 2003
A simple and medium-weight but tasty, quite fruity LBV. Rating: 81
Croft Vintage Port 1994
One of the least successful and most evolved 1994s I know, especially by a major house, but obviously a treat to be given to sample. Medium-plus complexity, sweet, medium-fat, round, rather mature for the vintage, quite long. But note this was a recent import directly from the producer – I would expect more coolly stored bottles to be (possibly significantly) more youthful. Rating: ~90
Casa Ferreirinha Douro Callabriga 2005
A blend of Tinta Roriz, Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca, aged in new oak for one year. From vines in Quinta da Leda and neighbouring vineyards. A bit nutty, not weighty enough, a bit worn out by the oak, almost frighteningly evolved for such a young wine, a perplexing effort. Rating: 81
Casa Ferreirinha Douro Reserva Especial 1997
A blend of Tinta Roriz, Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca, aged in new oak for one and a half years. From vines in Quinta da Leda and neighbouring vineyards at higher altitude. A bit more concentrated and complex, longer on the finish. A very far cry from the Barca Velha this is apparently meant to replace in 1997. Rating: ~84
Graham Vintage Port Malvedos 1998
Broad and loose, medium body and length at best, already verging on soapy. Rating: 83-
Niepoort 20 Years Old Tawny Port
Very (wal-)nutty, sweet and dry, flavourful – I personally prefer either fruitier (more balanced or younger, depending on each producers’ house style) Tawny, or then high-end Colheitas that show greater mature complexity (some of the finest I have had were by Niepoort, by the way: 1900, 1912 and perhaps 1983 most readily spring to mind). Rating: 86
Niepoort Late Bottled Vintage Port 2003
Nice, medium-complex, if lightly tired fruit, hefty alcohol, slightly short and bland finish. Expected more here given the quality of the VP from the same vintage. Rating: 83+/84?
Niepoort Vintage Port 2005
An elegant Vintage Port with nice alcohol integration that should please those who tend to find this category too big and powerful. The elegant dry surface of a Taylor (the importer’s sales person agrees), not too full-bodied, with firm, marzipan-tinged fruit. A nicely balanced, unusually easy to interpret medium-plus weight and mid-term ager. Should turn out just about outstanding with bottle age. Rating: 88+/89(+?)
Quinta Nova de Nossa Senhora do Carmo Ruby Port Reserve
Sweet, warming alcohol, quite big and lush for a wine that only costs 4 Euros at the winery. Fairly hot on the aftertaste, though. Rating: 84
Quinta Nova de Nossa Senhora do Carmo Late Botted Vintage Port 2004
Already quite smooth. Medium-complex, quite a spicy LBV, warming alcohol. Rating: 85(+?)
Quinta Nova de Nossa Senhora do Carmo Vintage Port 2006
Chocolate, plum, coffee, fair enough body and length. Rating: 84+?
Quinta do Noval Vintage Port Silval 2003
Elegant, medium-sweet, grapey, with a little alcoholic warmth, and marzipan as if of new oak (are these aged in barrique?), long finish. Rating: 88+?
Quinta do Noval Vintage Port 2003
More complex and deep than the Silval, with more integrated alcohol. A relatively unexotic 2003, potentially finesseful and harmonious. But clearly modern-styled. Already much less one-dimensional (and tired!) than at release, this seems quite promising. Rating: 92+?
Quinta do Portal Colheita Port 1994
Balanced and harmonious, a typical example of the vintage. Lightly nutty, evolved enough, nice medium-plus complexity and nutty tertiary characteristics and oak spice. Long finish. Delicious. This should go well with chocolate-based desserts. Rating: 88
Quinta do Portal Vintage Port 2003
Medium weight, somewhat superficial, some ink, medium-short. Rating: 81+
Quinta da Romaneira Vintage Port 2004
A misplaced tasting note that I am pretty sure (but not entirely) I am attributing correctly. A slightly mulled wine like medium weight, way too easy given its youth, but tasty enough. Rating: 82+/83
Quinta de Roriz Douro Prazo de Roriz 2005
Poured by one of my favourite winemerchants, Raymond Silvani, who – after I commented what a stylistically agreeable little wine this is – shrugged and told me this was so reductive at release (needed so many hours of decanting to be at all enjoyable) that it was virtually impossible to sell, and that it still calls for knowledgeable wine lovers to understand what a bargain this is at 16.80 Swiss Francs. Tasty, not too modern, earthy fruit, a firm and sappy mouthful of wine, quite long. Does wine like this really pose such a interpretive problem to the average customer? Rating: 84+/85
Quinta de Roriz Douro Reserva 2003
More concentrated, powerful and ageworthy, but from a stylistic perspective (plus taking into account it costs more), I like it less. Good density of nutmeg chocolate fruit, oakier wine that I was told appeals to many more customers... Rating: 86+
Quinta de Roriz Vintage Port 2001
Sweet, medium-complex, softly tannic, medium grip overall, good length. All in all, not memorable. Rating: 87
Warre Vintage Port 2003
Harmonious, ripe and warming fruit, quite complex, more evolved than the Noval, more traditional in style, lovely wine. Rating: 91
Greetings from Switzerland, David.
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„J'ai gâché vingt ans de mes plus belles années au billard. Si c'était à refaire, je recommencerais.“ – Roger Conti