As always there was an interesting line-up of French top-class artisan producers at the Autumn tasting of TGVIns/Le Vin Passion.
Domaine Charles Joguet, Chinon
Chinon Les Petites Roches 2007 (€12) suffered from reductive aromas and was a bit thin and inexpressive right now; 13/20.
Chinon Les Varennes du Grand Clos 2006 (€16) showed more wood than I recall in past vintages and a jammy touch to its otherwise quite closed aromas but there was a lot more substance than in the previous; Jacques Genet, the new commercial manager, explained that this cuvée still sees no new wood but, in an effort to tame “animal” flavours, i.e. brett, he had decided to eliminate older barrels that had seen more than two or three wines; this explains the woodier impression at present; 15/20. (There used to be a parcel of ungrafted vines in Varennes du Grand Clos but phylloxera has invaded and they are in the process of being grubbed up.)
Chinon Clos du Chêne Vert 2006 (€24) opened up noticeably in the glass and showed much rounder fruit than the previous with leather touches (acceptable to M. Genet) and no wood; the palate showed fullness and depth and velvety tannins; very promising 16.5/20++.
Chinon Clos de la Dioterie 2006 (€24) showed a return towards jam and wood but not to the extent of Les Varennes and there was a good density on the palate with mineral touches; 16/20.
White Chinon can be delicious and so was Touraine Clos de la Plante Martin 2007 (€12), 100% Chenin, which was long with citrus, honey and mineral (a lot of flint) notes; 16/20.
This is another Loire producer joining Yannick Amirault in the squeaky clean brigade. Is nice funky Loire Cabernet franc condemned to disappear?
Domaine Belle & Fils, Crozes-Hermitage
Crozes-Hermitage Les Pierrelles 2005 (€12) was deliciously exuberant and fruity with nice notes of ivy and sour cherry; 15.5/20++; while Crozes-Hermitage Louis Belle 2005 (€16) was more closed but showed greater depth and seriousness; 16/20+ potentially. At present Hermitage 2004 (€39) showed blackberry and jammy notes on its deep matter and structure; I liked it less now than the two Crozes and it needs time; 15/20 now with +++ potential probably.
The white Crozes-Hermitage Les Terres Blanches 2005 (€13), Marsanne/Roussanne, showed generosity, tropical fruit and a little undigested wood; 15/20. Hermitage (W) 2004 (€35) was quite closed but one could sense ample matter and depth with tropical fruit and minerals; needs time; I guess potentially 16/20+. (M. Belle says that white Hermitage evolves strangely; into and out of closed and also oxidative phases; never ditch the remaining bottles if one appears oxidized.)
Domaine du Clos Marie, Coteaux du Languedoc Pic-Saint-Loup (“CDL-PSL”)
This has become one of the best estates in Languedoc.
CDL-PSL L’Olivette 2006 (€11), 60% Grenache and the balance Syrah and Cinsault, was delicious for early drinking with dark fruit, a lot of plum, minerals, good freshness and structure; 15.5/20++.
CDL-PSL Simon 2006 (€18), Syrah and Grenache with 10% Mourvèdre, was clearly a step up with some ageing potential showing greater complexity with tangy fruit and leather and also some elegance and length; 16/20+
CDL-PSL Métairies du Clos Vieilles Vignes 2006 (€19), Carignan, Grenache and Syrah, continued the progression in depth and complesity with silkier tannins; 16.5/20+++
CDL-PSL Manon blanc 2007 (€14), Roussanne and Macabeu, was a deliciously fresh and mineral white with citrus notes; 16/20.
Domaine Gardiès, Côtes du Roussillon Villages (“CRV “)
This estate vies with Gauby and Clos des Fées for the place of my favourite for table wines in Roussillon. Following immediately upon Clos Marie enabled me to confirm my impression that Roussillon reds tend to be more generous, richer and sweeter but perhaps less complex and classy than their neighbours from Languedoc. (A bit like right versus left banks in Bordeaux.)
CRV Les Millières 2006 (€12), Grenache and Syrah 40% each with Carignan and Mourvèdre, was typically exuberant with sweet fruit, tar and leather; 15.5/20++.
CRV Tautavel Vieilles Vignes 2006 (€18), 70 year vines of Grenache 60%, Carignan and Syrah, was deeper and more tannic with notes of tar and liquorice; 15.5/20++.
CRV La Torre 2006 (€28), Mourvèdre 70%, was a more serious proposition with structure, length and notes of prune and tar; not yet ready; 16/20.
CRV Tautavel Les Falaises 2006 (€38), 90 year Carignan and Grenache vines, was the most closed of the series with a lot of depth and structure; potentially 16/20+.
Domaine Labet, Côtes du Jura (“CDJ”)
It was a clever move to place this fine mineral range after increasingly powerful reds.
CDJ Fleur de Savagnin 2005 (€13,50), made in a non-oxidative style, was deliciously crisp and mineral with hints of apple; 16/20.
I did not like CDJ Fleur de Chardonnay 2006 (€13) so much; more ample, generous, creamy and honeyed with a slightly cloying after-taste; 15/20. The 1998 had a touch of over-ripe orange peel in its aromas and was rounder and more complex but less fresh on the palate and showing caramel touches; 14.5/20++.
I much preferred the mini-vertical of CDJ Fleur de Marne la Bardette, 100% Chardonnay. 2005 (€17) seemed to combine the virtues of the young Fleur de Savagnin and Fleur de Chardonnay being full of white fruit, minerals and vigour; 16/20++. 1997 was darker, deeper and more subtle with citrus and tropical fruit; 16/20. 2000 was my favourite at present with the depth and complexity of the 97 but much greater freshness and minerality; 16.5/20.
CDV Savagnin 2002 (€17), made in the oxidative style, showed tangy fruit with a lot of apple perhaps made more generous and mouth-filling than the Fleur de Savagnin by the oxidative treatment; 16/20.
CDV Vin Jaune (vintage ?), was much more focused, linear and trenchant than the previous not unlike a fine dry sherry with an extra nutty component; 16/20++.
CDV Vin de Paille was richly raisiny and malty; not really my thing but enjoyable once in a while; 15/20.
Vin de liqueur Macvin du Jura (€18) is even less my kind of thing – it is made from 1 part eau de vie de marc (= grappa) to 2 parts of grape must; rough herbs, grape pips, anis and a dab of chemicals come to mind; NR.
Domaine Vial-Magnères, Banyuls
This is a new estate for me. These Vins Doux Naturels (“VDN” = fortified like port) seemed more tangy and characterful, if slightly rustic, compared with the more suave Maury from Mas Amiel.
Banyuls Tradition 7 ans d’âge (tawny style- €14)) showed a nice tang on its Grenache fruit and some minerals; 14.5/20.
Banyuls Rimage 2005 (vintage style- €16) had backbone and a slightly resinous note; 15.5/20.
Banyuls André Magnères 1998 (colheita tawny style- €33) was on a different plane with fine subtle aromas and more structure and tang but perhaps less elegance than in equivalent tawny port; 16.5/20.
Domaine Berthoumieu, Madiran
Vin de liqueur Tanatis (€19) is, as its name, implies a VDN wine made from Tannat in the Madiran area. It was a remarkable effort; more austere and perhaps classier than the Banyuls but full of sap, power and structure with its RS humanizing the Tannat; this would be great with Stilton and it was also fine with chocolate presented by Darcis, one of Belgium up and coming chocolatiers; 16.5/20+.