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WTN: Il Carbonaione '92-'05 + great Austrian and Argentine

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WTN: Il Carbonaione '92-'05 + great Austrian and Argentine

by Saina » Mon Nov 03, 2008 5:24 pm

Today Restaurant Carelia organized a fun tasting of Carbonaione. I didn't enjoy the sheer amount of oak in the first three, but the three older ones were better - I guess these need just plenty of time to come around.

  • 2005 Podere Poggio Scalette Il Carbonaione Toscana IGT - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT (11/3/2008)
    Purple. Sweet oak, toffee and some banana-bread aromatics. Much better palate with good acidity, strong tannins - quite refreshing despite the oak and the general sense of sweetness. I didn't enjoy it; needs time.
  • 2004 Podere Poggio Scalette Il Carbonaione Toscana IGT - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT (11/3/2008)
    Just like in the '05 and '03, the oak was simply overwhelming but I did see fleeting hints of actual bright, red fruited Sangiovese in there as well! Concentrated, refreshingly structured, strong tannins and needs time. I like the fruit and structure, I dislike the oak. Needs time.
  • 2003 Podere Poggio Scalette Il Carbonaione Toscana IGT - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT (11/3/2008)
    It does show both massive oak and the roasted, slightly raisiny character of a vintage that was too hot. But it also has attractive, dark fruit tones with a bit of lift and brighter, red tones to lighten it up a bit. Sweet, lower in acidity but still structured. Not bad at all if you enjoy a modern style of Sangiovese with plentiful oak aromas - it's not a victim of the vintage.
  • 1998 Podere Poggio Scalette Il Carbonaione Toscana IGT - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT (11/3/2008)
    After the young and too oaky trio of '03-'06 this came as a surprise and a welcome relief. The oak has largely integrated and the result is a very sweet, red toned wine, perhaps not terribly strongly Sangiovese in character, but at least pleasant. Full bodied, still with strong, burly tannins and nice acidity. Not bad.
  • 1996 Podere Poggio Scalette Il Carbonaione Toscana IGT - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT (11/3/2008)
    Dark colour; dark fruit more than red, but the oak is mostly integrated. It is perhaps a touch inky (tried too hard?) and not very like Sangiovese (and, indeed, rather international) but pleasant enough. Full bodied, burly tannins, moderate acidity - the components aren't all quite together, though. Not bad, not exciting.
  • 1992 Podere Poggio Scalette Il Carbonaione Toscana IGT - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT (11/3/2008)
    The first vintage. This was a very pleasant wine - maybe these just need a lot of time? It smells of bright red fruit and cedar, more like a well aged Left Bank Bordeaux than a Sangiovese, though. Still tannic, and with sweet, red fruit still so well in evidence that I wonder if despite the scent being seemingly so aged, this could go on and perhaps improve for a number of years still? Not much typicity, but it is a charming and thoroughly pleasant wine.

After the formal tasting there were a few others opened that Vittorio Fiore consults with:
  • 2007 Goretti Fontanella - Italy, Umbria (11/3/2008)
    100% Grechetto. An attractive scent of something slightly bitter (quinine?) and pineapple. Strong fruit, but fairly light body, moderate but refreshing acidity - a pleasant, unoaked white.
  • 2006 Goretti Il Moggio - Italy, Umbria (11/3/2008)
    100% Grechetto. It sees some oak treatment and though the vibrantly fruity and pineappley fruit is to the fore, for me the oak, rather than making the whole more complex, causes a slight annoyance and detracts from the purity of the whole. Medium-full body, more oak, good fruit and acidity. Probably very good for those who can handle oak better.
  • 2005 Poggio Torselli Chianti Classico - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico (11/3/2008)
    Quite an attractive, obviously Sangiovese aroma with its cherry and sandalwood aromas. But is a rather sweet and soft style, juicy and moderately light and quite a bit of fun.
  • 2004 Poggio Torselli Chianti Classico Riserva - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico (11/3/2008)
    Ripe, darker cherry aromas than the non-reserva, more dusty, less bright and red in its fruit; but also firmer tannins and more focused. Nice!


Finally some wines imported by Carelia and a few samples were tested:
  • 2004 Hans Igler Blaufränkisch Ried Hochberg - Austria, Burgenland (11/3/2008)
    A lovely Blaufränkisch, quite dark toned in fruit, perhaps a bit peppery and meaty like Syrah (though not as gamy as N. Rhône can often be), very pure and clean. Juicy like a good Gamay yet structured: strong tannins, moderate+ acidity. Really quite a lovely wine!
  • 2005 Hans Igler Zweigelt Classic - Austria, Burgenland (11/3/2008)
    Another lovely wine from Igler. A very pure Zweigelt nose with some leafy and rhubarb character but also bright red fruit. Juicy tannins, moderate acidity, fairly light but delivers plenty. Lovely.
  • 2006 Quinta do Crasto Douro Reserva Old Vines - Portugal, Douro (11/3/2008)
    The scent was quite lovely, full of red berries and flowers with some darker fruit tones underneath to bring in a bit of gravitas; sadly the palate was burlier than the scent promised and the 14,5% alcohol was noticeable. Lovely scent, but otherwise quite a brute.
  • 2006 Bodega Nofal Tempranillo Tunquelen - Argentina, Mendoza (11/3/2008)
    Reductive, and smelled like strawberry jam. So sweet that I guess it must have some RS? No oak that I could see, but I'm not convinced by this.
  • 2004 Bodega Nofal Malbec Tunquelen - Argentina, Mendoza (11/3/2008)
    Reductive, meaty, full bodied and quite simple. Unmemorable.
  • 2004 Bodega Nofal Malbec Santa Ercilia - Argentina, Mendoza (11/3/2008)
    This was quite a lovely Malbec: meaty, leafy, no new oak aromas that I could see, dark but elegant fruit, not overly sweet not austere either. Good tannins, but perhaps a bit high in alcohol (14% IIRC), but all in all a very positive taste.
  • 2003 Bodega Nofal Alonso - Argentina, Mendoza, Valle de Uco (11/3/2008)
    This was a revelation to me as I have never had something like it from South America. IIRC a blend of Malbec, Tempranillo and some others. Fully ripe, but not over-ripe and there is no new oak that I can see. Instead it is weightless but fruity as are the best "natural" wines I have tasted (though I have no idea if this producer goes for that philosophy). Meaty/bloody/gamy, red fruit, some sea-breeze - a very natural and unforced scent. Medium-full body, no oak, honest tannins and acidity, very light on its feet, almost weightless (the relatively low 13,2% abv for a special cuvée must have helped here) yet persistent. This is honest and unassuming and makes a very good impression me. More wines like this from the New World, please!
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Re: WTN: Il Carbonaione '92-'05 + great Austrian and Argentine

by David M. Bueker » Mon Nov 03, 2008 8:36 pm

Blaufrankisch and Zweigelt in the same thread! Impressive Otto! (I don't know squat about the wines that were the focus of your thread but I enjoyed reading about them.)
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Re: WTN: Il Carbonaione '92-'05 + great Austrian and Argentine

by Oswaldo Costa » Tue Nov 04, 2008 5:21 am

I've located the 03 Nofal Alonso down here and may give one a try in the name of science (perhaps not a violation of probation to corroborate another scientist's experiments).
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Re: WTN: Il Carbonaione '92-'05 + great Austrian and Argentine

by Saina » Tue Nov 04, 2008 4:24 pm

Oswaldo Costa wrote:I've located the 03 Nofal Alonso down here and may give one a try in the name of science (perhaps not a violation of probation to corroborate another scientist's experiments).


I think this is far from science, but I would still love to hear your opinions on it! Nofal is a property I hadn't heard of before, but it certainly was the most memorable wine yesterday.
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Re: WTN: Il Carbonaione '92-'05 + great Austrian and Argentine

by Oswaldo Costa » Tue Nov 04, 2008 6:29 pm

Otto Nieminen wrote:
Oswaldo Costa wrote:I've located the 03 Nofal Alonso down here and may give one a try in the name of science (perhaps not a violation of probation to corroborate another scientist's experiments).


I think this is far from science, but I would still love to hear your opinions on it! Nofal is a property I hadn't heard of before, but it certainly was the most memorable wine yesterday.


In the name of science is just a silly expression in English that never means what it says :wink: I will receive the Nofal tomorrow and perhaps even open it tomorrow night.

Last month in NY I also picked up a 97 Musar rouge and an 04 Musar blanc which I look forward to trying soon, perhaps with middle eastern food.
"I went on a rigorous diet that eliminated alcohol, fat and sugar. In two weeks, I lost 14 days." Tim Maia, Brazilian singer-songwriter.
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Re: WTN: Il Carbonaione '92-'05 + great Austrian and Argentine

by Saina » Wed Nov 05, 2008 1:26 pm

Oswaldo Costa wrote:In the name of science is just a silly expression in English that never means what it says :wink: I will receive the Nofal tomorrow and perhaps even open it tomorrow night.

Last month in NY I also picked up a 97 Musar rouge and an 04 Musar blanc which I look forward to trying soon, perhaps with middle eastern food.


I look forward to your note. The Musar Blanc '04 won't be released for a couple years, so I guess you must have the Cuvée Musar or the Hochar Père et Fils?

-O
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Re: WTN: Il Carbonaione '92-'05 + great Austrian and Argentine

by Oswaldo Costa » Thu Nov 06, 2008 5:39 am

Otto Nieminen wrote:The Musar Blanc '04 won't be released for a couple years, so I guess you must have the Cuvée Musar or the Hochar Père et Fils?


It's called Musar Cuvée Réservée and was inexpensive, under $15. Will taste them together at some point soon and will let you know.
"I went on a rigorous diet that eliminated alcohol, fat and sugar. In two weeks, I lost 14 days." Tim Maia, Brazilian singer-songwriter.

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