WTN: Barolo and Verdicchio

With a shrimp/escarole sautee with grilled polenta, the 2007 Colle Stefano Verdicchio di Matelica. What a great little wine. Clean and lively acidity, crisp, bright citrus and melon fruit with a snappy finish. A few years ago I would have sneered at the idea of loving a Verdicchio, but I'm realizing more and more that lots of "lowly" grapes can do well in the right hands (and soil). Gets fuller with time, with more almond/nuttiness and minerality. Very good QPR ( $14). B+

Last night I was in charge of dinner. Marinated some skirt steak in a black vinegar/Shaoxing/shoyu/garlic combo, stared at my broccoli before deciding to use up veggies in the fridge (sauteed some arugula, plus leftover cabbage and roast vegetable). Wine was the 1997 Ceretto "Zonchero" Barolo. I drank up my couple of these, but this was a recent gift. Pleasant, ripe, red cherry fruit with a bit of sandalwood and Christmas spice. Certainly enjoyable, but can't say it screamed Barolo at me. This seems fully mature, tannins are resolved, low acid but not flabby. I enjoyed, but wouldn't buy. B

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.

Dale,

the Verdicchio may have surprised you because it's from Matelica, rather than Jesi. Matelica is at much higher altitude, and the wines have much more interesting structure as a result (better acidity). But there are very few of them over here.

I import Colle Stefano. I was delighted to see that the Colle Stefano just received Tre Bicchieri from the Gambero Rosso for the second year in a row, quite a feat for an unoaked, zesty white made by a producer with no PR department...

I had the 97 Zonchero earlier this year and agree with your review. Nice but ain't going anywhere from here (the Asij was the same).

I somehow expect more weight and longevity from my Barolos and don't collect the ones that fail to offer those attributes.

A few years ago I would have sneered at the idea of loving a Verdicchio, but I'm realizing more and more that lots of "lowly" grapes can do well in the right hands (and soil).

I'm sure many people said the same of melon de bourgogne until Muscadet hip the hipsters playlists.

Oliver, sometimes I think an elevation marker would be very handy on wine labels.
Congratulations on carrying yet more good stuff. If I were in your market, I think your name would be a sure buy signal for me.

Bill, yeah, pleasant enough, but why not spend a few dollars more for Marcarini (or about the same for a Produttori single vneyard Barbaresco).

Mark, I would have been one of those people. Up until 5-7 years ago, my Muscadet experiences were limited to mostly negociants , and I thought light and forgettable was all melon dB could aim for.

Dale, you've made my day.

The '97s had a falling-off-the-bone quality even when young, the first of the modern hot vintages and many producers didn't know how to handle it.