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WTN: Dunn, Pernot, and Domane Wachau

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Dale Williams

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WTN: Dunn, Pernot, and Domane Wachau

by Dale Williams » Wed Oct 22, 2008 10:17 am

We had invited a friend & her dog over for dinner Monday night. Then on weekend my brother called that he would be in area for business, so he could come to dinner. Betsy did 2 small chickens, with roasted veggies (parsnips, carrots, turnips, and shallot) and a bok choy salad with walnuts. Dana is solely a white winer, my brother prefers red. So we
opened two bottles:

2006 Paul Pernot Bourgogne Blanc
Generally one of my favorite Bourgognes annually. Really ripe Bosc pear fruit, bigger than most years, maybe just a touch blowsy. Really pleased the CalChard drinker, for my tastes a bit more acidity and definition would be welcome. B-

1991 Dunn Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley)
OK, Dunn might be a bit much for roast chicken. But I wanted to open something a little special for my brother, and thought 17 years would be enough to tame some of the tannins for the basic Napa bottling. Nope. I was shocked how tannic and stern this was at opening. Big and leathery. With some time, pretty good black plum and cassis fruit started peeking out. This was way too much for the chicken, and I ended up grabbing remaining half of a bottle of Morgon. A taste of the Dunn as I finished loading dishwasher was best, solid dark fruit with cedar and leather, the tannins still there but less dominating. We'll see how this fares overnight. A C- with the chicken, this needs a
steak, but overall I'd give this a B counting potential. Let it rest.

Good to see my brother, our friend, and to watch the dogs romp together.

(note: On day 2 Dunn's got a good dark fruit core, but still tannic, with a leathery edge. Reminds me a bit of some of the better-fruited '75 Bordeaux a few years ago. '06 Pernot is a bit boring on 2nd day.)

Tuesday we were having leftover roast chicken, along with some red cabbage and pancetta. Cabbage made me think dry Riesling from maybe Alsace or Austria, but actually came upstairs with a different Austrian, the 2006 Domane Wachau (Freie Weingärtner Wachau) "Terrassen" Gruner Veltliner Federspiel . Light to medium body, nose of flowers, peas, and white pepper. Green apple and peach fruit, good acidity, just a hint of spritz. A little saline/rock edge to finish. Not especially complex, but quite enjoyable, and a deal at about $12. B/B+

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.
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Jacques Levy

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Re: WTN: Dunn, Pernot, and Domane Wachau

by Jacques Levy » Wed Oct 22, 2008 10:28 am

I like all the Pernots I have ever had, but I am surprised by your note. I have not opened any 2006 White Burgundy, do you think it may be a vintage thing?

I am now convinced that Dunn stays tannic for decades. 1985 Dunns drank last year were still unyielding. I am not averse to some rough tannins, but I like fruit in my wines
Best Regards

Jacques

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