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A Brief Meditation On Brunello

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Dave Erickson

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A Brief Meditation On Brunello

by Dave Erickson » Sun Oct 19, 2008 11:21 am

Eric Asimov has an update on the latest in the Brunello "scandal" (I use the term advisedly--it looks more like farce to me), and it got me to thinking: The root of this problem is that the image of Brunello di Montalcino is far more appealing to a lot of people than the wine itself. And so Brunello producers are caught in a bind: They've attracted an audience of people who aren't reaching for the wine, they're just reaching for "Brunello." I know, because I'm dealing with these people with some regularity. And I'm in a bind, too, because I find myself in the peculiar position of discouraging some people from buying the stuff. How do I know they won't like it? Because the rest of their case is filled out with high-end Napa Cabernets and big tricked-out blockbuster Pinot Noir from the Russian River. These folks have learned to say "dry," but that's not what they really like. And Brunello (at least the stuff we carry) can be formidably dry.

I suppose this is really just a rant about people's pretensions outstripping their tastes; it isn't just Brunello that's the problem.

PS: Just to make myself clear--I'm not casting aspersions on anyone here! Quite the contrary, I'm looking for a sympathetic audience. OK?

Thanks for letting me vent.
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David M. Bueker

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Re: A Brief Meditation On Brunello

by David M. Bueker » Sun Oct 19, 2008 12:28 pm

Interesting. I was at a blind tasting the other night where a whole bunch of Brunellos were mistaken for Cabernet. Not big, brawny Napa Cab, but more like Bordeaux from a ripe vintage.
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Ryan M

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Re: A Brief Meditation On Brunello

by Ryan M » Mon Oct 20, 2008 12:40 am

I agree with some of the comments to the article. There's already an official DOC for super-tuscans from Montalcino: Sant Antimo. If you don't want to make a 100% Sangiovese wine, then you don't really want to make Brunello anyway. There's nothing wrong with Sangiovese folks. Drink your Napa Cabs and leave Brunello alone!
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Oliver McCrum

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Re: A Brief Meditation On Brunello

by Oliver McCrum » Mon Oct 20, 2008 6:25 pm

Dave,

I used to be in retail, I feel your pain.
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Perry Sykes

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Re: A Brief Meditation On Brunello

by Perry Sykes » Mon Nov 03, 2008 11:16 am

I think Brunello di Montalcino has been highly overrated in recent year. For some time there was a real boom where everyone, know matter if they were knowledgeable about wines or not knew the name "Brunello" and ordered it as you said just because of the name and not because of the wine. :?
I am not sure why and how this trend actually started. Anyway, personally I really like red wines and I am a big fan of Brunello and will always be. Still it is a pity that the wine only gained popularity because of its name and not of its taste
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Tom Troiano

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Re: A Brief Meditation On Brunello

by Tom Troiano » Mon Nov 03, 2008 12:14 pm

Perry,

Despite my WTN from today I don't drink much Brunello because of the price and because I've been disappointed many times.

Are you saying that to some the term "Brunello" is kinda like "Chablis" - a name that many folks recognize and want to buy/order regardless of the quality?

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Re: A Brief Meditation On Brunello

by Victorwine » Tue Nov 04, 2008 10:48 am

Because of the “scandal” and “press” involving Montalcino my tasting group in October had a Montalcino Tasting. It included “Baby Brunellos”, Brunellos, an “international” red from Montalcino (Shiraz) and a delicious Dessert or after-dinner wine.

Castello Banfi 2006 Rosso di Montalcino
Clear and brilliant, dark ruby color. Nice black and red fruit on the nose. Good balance and subtle use of oak. Very elegant, smooth and soft, a little light in structure. Definitely made in the “international”, “New World-ish” style. (15.5 avg score 14.5) $18
Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona 2006 Rosso di Montalcino
Clear and brilliant ruby red color. Subtle on the nose with a lot more of a bouquet dominated nose and palate (cinnamon, spice and hint of vanilla) with just a touch of red and black fruit. To me the wine was more “Old-World-ish” in style. (16.5 avg score 15.3) $23
Siro Pacenti Rosso di Montalcino Vedemmia 2006
Clear and brilliant ruby red color. Big nose, but not as big as Castello Banfi’s Rosso di Montalcino. Wine at first seemed slightly disjointed, out of balance somewhat. But with additional time in the glass and swirling it did seem to come together somewhat. The wine might need some more bottle aging (14 avg score 14.9) $25
Angelo Sassetti Brunello di Montalcino Pertimali 2001
Clear and brilliant in color, much deeper and richer red in color than the “baby” Brunellos. Earthy tones, raisins, with a hint of red and black fruit and leather. Pleasant and lingering aftertaste. Definitely red wine of the evening (17 avg score 15.9) $38
Fattoria dei Barbi Brunello di Montalcino 2001
Clear and brilliant dark red color with a slightly red brick color at the edges. Initially I picked up something “funky” on the nose, which “blew off”. The wine is nicely structured and balanced. Full-bodied wine with nice richness. The finish is fairly long and pleasant. (15.5 avg score 15.2) $45
Altesino Brunello di Montalcino 1997
Slightly brown on the edges (possible because of its age) but still clear and brilliant in appearance. Very nice nose with subtle red and black fruit with some spice and vanilla still lurking about. Still seems to be holding up nicely with good acid, tannin and fruit balance with some complexity still coming around. Pleasant and lingering aftertaste. (14.5 avg score 15.6) $56
Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona 2005 Fabivs
100% Syrah, 14.5 % alcohol by volume
Clear and brilliant dark red color. Found it to be a “typical New-World-ish” or “international” Syrah or Shiraz, fruity, spicy and “veggie”. (13 avg score 15.5) $44
Castello Banfi 2006 Florus Moscadello di Montalcino
Clear and brilliant rich bright golden color. Honey, nutty, dried fruit (Figgie) candied tropical fruit and floral notes on both the nose and palate. Nicely concentrated with good balance and structure. Nice acidity. Pleasant and lingering aftertaste. (15, avg score 16.8) $17

Salute
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Bill Spohn

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Re: A Brief Meditation On Brunello

by Bill Spohn » Tue Nov 04, 2008 11:41 am

I used to buy quite a few Brunellos (Brunelli?) of the old school, and still have a few from the late 80s and early 90s. My impressions are that many of the wines made after the middle of the 1990s were done in a different, more international style, with lower acidity and more fruit, and my impression (limited, so take with grain of salt) is that these new style wines may not have the same longevity as the older leaner style.

I do know that I won't be taking any chances on them given the pricing in recent years.

Damn, they were good, though. Had a 1988 Petimali awhile ago that (politely) kicked ass.

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