So, it’s back to the west coast for the syrah harvest; finally the weather has warmed and kicked the sugar levels up. The fruit looks good and tastes even better; we should have deep wines this year.
A couple of bottles tasted this week deserve a comment:
2006 Overnoy, Arbois Pupillin:
I don’t know how anyone can do a better job with poulsard; this wine is translucent, aromatic, flavorful and perfectly balanced. With risotto Milanese it was just the thing – ‘cuts the richness but never overwhelms the saffron aromas and flavors – what a delight. And it has all the markings of wine that will cellar well. Finest kind.
2001 Edmunds St. John, Los Robles Viejos:
Most of Steve’s wines are examples of purity; here a CdP blend is focused, balanced and flavorful yet restrained. Accompanies our meal with nuance and counterpoint but never overpowers it. The way wine should be.
2005 Philippe Faury, Saint Joseph:
Good, earthy syrah that is not “too” anything but has plenty of complexity and poise. Elegant in delivery yet still intense and structured. An archetype for the AOC.
1998 Veiux Telegraph, CdP:
Could use some more time . . . but as long as it’s open; firm, earthy, complex and satin textured. Good length, too. Funny; I loved this wine on release and since then, not so much. But I have the feeling it’s getting there, gradually.
1999 Belle Pente, Pinot Noir Murto Reserve:
This has always had a lovely nose – cherries, flint, underbrush, a touch of spice; well integrated in the mouth and the texture of silk, great pinot flavors that mimic the nose, good concentration, acidity and depth; better than average length. This is coming into its own and was ideal with salmon.
1996 Chateau Lynch Bages:
In its early days, it was very Napa in style; it has crossed the ocean and is now quintessential Bordeaux; earth-driven on the with cassis, pencil shavings and stone elements; much the same on the palate as the sweet fruit flavors have receded and now are simply an element of the profile, good concentration, developing complexity, considerable tannin, nice balance and substantial length. The development of this wine has been a joy to experience; and certainly, the change has been dramatic. Still pretty young by Bordeaux standards. Superb with cheese.
Best, Jim