This was the first commercial tasting of the 2008 Autumn tasting season and a very good one, too. It remains to be seen whether the financial meltdown affects these events but already some of the négociants present were worrying that wine merchants may find themselves short of cash to replenish their stocks. Yesterday there were less people than usual but that may have been due to people staying out of doors on an exceptionally fine and balmy Autumn day.
There was a wide range of prestige exhibitors, including Bouchard Père & Fils, William Fèvre, Louis Jadot, André Lurton, Delas Frères, Domaines Perrin, François Lurton, Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi, Axial Vinos, Bodega El Portillo & Salentein (Argentina), Montes (Chile), Rosemount Estate, Croft port, Champagne Deutz and Champagne Henriot. As the Burgundies were unmissable, that left me very little scope for anything else before saturation from palate fatigue and alcoholic seepage (in spite of spitting).
I will split my notes on this tasting into two posts with Burgundy first.
William Fèvre (Chablis) and Bouchard Père & Fils (Côte d’Or and Mâconnais)
These wines were presented by the same competent and somewhat authoritarian lady as last year. She made a number of interesting general observations, namely –
- for reds, 2003 is their emblematic year with superb power and concentration and none of the cooked and candied flavours found elsewhere; certainly their Volnay Clos des Chênes was excellent.
- for whites, 2005 has poor typicity particularly the Chablis, which taste more like wines from the Côte d’Or.
- the woody notes which I found on a Meursault Genevrières were the product of the Meursault terroir; significantly I did not find the same notes on the Meursault from Jadot.
Whites
From William Fèvre, Sauvignon de Saint-Bris 2007 showed citrus and meat aromas and bright crisp acidity; 15/20. Chablis 2007 Domaine showed lovely aromas of minerals and soft white fruit and a gentle crispness on the palate (16/20), whilst Chablis 1er cru Les Vaillons 2006 Domaine added a floral dimension to the aromas and a touch of extra richness and finesse (17/20) and Chablis 1er cru Fourchaume 2006 was broader and more generous but perhaps less focussed on the palate with good minerality (16/20). This is a lovely range.
From Bouchard Père & Fils, I liked Pouilly-Fuissé 2006 which I found floral and quite rich (after the Chablis) but with a nice crispness (15.5/20++) but did not much care for Beaune 1er cru Clos Saint-Landry 2003 Domaine which I found round but lacking in brightness, showing too much wood and a cloying finish (14/20). Meursault 1er cru Les Genevrières 2006 Domaine was much better with fine wood and cigar box notes on the nose which became well covered by white fruit, “gras” and minerality on the long palate; 15/20 now with ++ potential. I somehow missed a Puligny-Montrachet.
Reds
These were all Domaine wines. I was pleased by how brightly and prettily the 2004s were now showing even if they are not built for the long haul. Monthélie 1er cru Les Champs Fulliot 2004 was very engaging showing very pure Pinot fruit with a lot of dark cherry (15.5/20+). Beaune 1er cru Clos de la Mousse 2004 was richer with more grip but still very engaging (16/20) and Beaune 1er cru Grèves “Vigne de l’Enfant Jésus” 2004 was even finer with extra layers of depth, fragrance and complexity (16.5). After this and returning to the “villages” level, Chambolle-Musigny 2004 seemed a bit simplistic with its nice soft fruit and sufficient grip (15/20+). However Gevrey-Chambertin 1er cru Les Cazetiers represented a big step up showing more structure than any of the previous together with richness and complexity; 16/20+.
Volnay 1er cru Clos des Chênes 2003 showed a lot more power, complexity and structure than the 04s, is beginning to be good drinking and probably has a lot more life in it; 16/20 with + potential. Pommard 1er cru Les Chanlins 2002 was rounder, fruitier, less structured, more elegant and feminine, the vintage characters over-trumping and reversing the usual commune characters; 16/20. On both these, after the purity of the 04s, I thought I caught an oxidative whiff on the noses. Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er cru Les Damodes 2006 was more closed than the others and its pure fruit was compromised by as yet ill-digested barrique induced caramel touches on the finish; 14.5/20 now but probably +++ potential.
Louis Jadot
These wines were presented by another very competent lady and with charm to boot. Here there were more 2005s on show which may account for my impression that the reds were more structured, if less ready, and the whites richer than those from Bouchard P&F.
Whites
Bourgogne Blanc Couvent des Jacobins 2006 was spicy with good “gras” and pure white fruit (no new wood) and I enjoyed it more than the two 1ers crus from Bouchard P&F which immediately preceded; 15.5/20. Côtes de Nuits Villages Le Vaucrain 2005 was richer and more generous though less mineral than from the Côtes de Beaune sites (15.5/20) whilst Marsanny blanc 2005 was slimmer and showed pretty hazel nut notes and minerality; 15.5/20.
I usually like the wines from Saint-Aubin and this 2005 was no exception showing more austerity than some but structure and minerality; 15.5/20. Meursault 2006 was naturally richer with a velvety entry and mineral finish (15.5/20++) and Santenay Clos de Malte 2006 was less luscious and more linear with bright acidity and minerality; 15/20+. Savigny les Beaune 1er cru Clos des Guettes 2004 showed more spice than the previous as well as good white fruit and minerals; 15.5/20. There was an extra dimension on Beaune 1er cru Les Grèves Le Clos Blanc 2005 with aromas of almond and brook rocks and richness cut by minerality; 16.5/20. Meursault 1er cru Les Charmes 2005 was the most luscious, even buttery, of the whole series but was balanced by structure and a strong squirt of mouthwatering acidity and minerals: 16/20++. Finally Puligny-Montrachet 1er cru Clos de la Garenne Domaine Duc de Magenta 1998 was hardly showing its age apart from a touch of goat cheese in the aromas; round, complex and integrated; 16/20.
It should be noted that on none of these Jadot offerings was I conscious of overt wood unlike on the two 1ers crus from Bouchard P&F.
Reds
There was a very interesting Beaujolais line-up here. As the presenter admitted, the style is far richer, more complex and age-worthy than the traditional early drinking, juicy and gluggable Beaujolais. I would never have identified these blind as coming from Gamay; more like a cross between Pinot Noir and Syrah. No doubt the impression was reinforced by the strong 2005 vintage. Morgon Château des Lumières 2005 was burgundian with rich cherry and almost jammy; 15.5/20. Morgon Côtes de Py 2005 was a touch more structured; 15.5/20. Moulin-à-Vent Château de Jacques 2005 was a fine upright wine with rich cherry and noticeable tannic structure (16/20) and Moulin-à-Vent Château de Jacques Clos du Grand Carquelin 2005 was even more concentrated and polished; 16/20+. These are very good wines but I would not reach for them when I want a Beaujolais fix nor, indeed, when I want Burgundian magic.
The lowly Bougogne Rouge Couvent des Jacobins 2006 immediately showed in its simplicity the magic of Pinot which was missing from the previous, impressive though they were; pure fresh fruit with some roundness and zip; 15/20. Santenay Clos de Malte 2005 showed aromas of cherry and meat, good fruit and a lot more grip and structure; 15/20++. Pernand-Vergelesses Clos de la Croix de Pierre 2005 was in a different league of charm but lighter and less structured; 16/20 now. Beaune 1er cru Les Boucherottes 2005 was more savoury and serious with good “gras” and structure; 16/20. Volnay 1er cru Clos des Chênes 2005 was similar with even more structure but the oak ageing obtruded somewhat at present in the form of caramel touches; 14.5/20 with ++ potential when the wood integrates.
Côtes de Nuits-Villages Vaucrain 2006 showed lovely cherry fruit and good grip; 15.5/20. Nuits Saint-Georges 1er cru Les Boudots was robust and solidly fruity but again with caramel touches at present; barely 15/20 now with ++ potential when the wood integrates. Gevrey-Chambertin 1er cru Clos-Saint-Jacques 2001 showed hints of evolution in its aromas, round and complex fruit, excellent freshness and length; 16/20.
I feel that I would rate these 2005 more highly in a few years time when they resolve their structure and when they digest their wood in a couple of cases; excellent potential is clearly here. The 2004s from Bouchard P&F are better drinking now.
I will revert to the non-Burgundian wines in a separate thread.