Here is a brief survey of wines consumed in the last few days. There was nothing outstanding but they were all honourable performers of the sort which I am happy to have on my table.
Carignan Vieilles Vignes Vin de Pays de l’Aude 1999 – Domaine Ollieux Romains – was made from vines 80 to 100 years old with a yield of only 25hl/ha and was bottled without fining and filtering; it showed good structure and depth of fruit with some raspberry aromas, tar but also barnyard which palled slightly and appeared more dominant as the bottle progressed; perhaps brett was amplified by a leaky cork; a pity because there were very good and interesting things here; enjoyable nevertheless but flawed; 15/20.
Saumur 2004 (W) – Château du Hureau (Philippe Vatan) – made from Chenin blanc shows firm white fruit with some apple, minerals, brightly appealing acidity and good length; dry white Loire wine as I like it; 15.5/20 ++.
“Symphonie” – Vin de Pays des Côtes Catalanes (W) – 2007 – Domaine Depeyre – is delightful fruity, savoury and crisp with excellent mouth-fill and structure and a pleasing touch of honest rusticity on the finish and 14.5% alcohol perfectly balanced; 15.5/20+++. (Apologies for lack of varietal information – probably a lot of Grenache blanc or gris.)
Several previous bottles of Rosso di Montalcino 2004 – Casisano-Colombaio - were so undernourished and thinly acidic that I wondered why I had bought them at a tasting. Now I know; it was because the sample was like this one; nice fruity aromas marked by sour cherry with good body, “gras” and Sangiovese tang and grip together with attractive minerals and mouth-watering acidity; 15.5/20+++. Another example of poor quality control in the bottling line?
Vouvray Le Haut Lieu (sec) 2004 – Domaine Huet - showed delightfully crisp acidity, minerality and citrus fruit but less flesh and a more raw finish than in a more climatically favoured vintage; 15.5/20.
Campo de Borja “Verasol” Garnacha 2006 – Bodegas Santo Cristo – is an exemplary QPR (approx. € 7) and gutsy young 100% Garnacha (Grenache) showing succulent fruit with touches of spice and good structure and grip; one comment (reproach?) – I cannot detect any contribution from this Spanish terroir to distinguish it from a good Southern Côtes du Rhône; 15.5/20++.
Coteaux du Languedoc Pic Saint-Loup 2006 – Mas de Fournel – is a model modestly priced (c. € 10) wine from its region; full bodied and supple with attractive red and dark fruit laced with spice and anis and carrying its 14.8% alcohol lightly; 15.5/20+. (Again apologies for no precise varietal information but Pic Saint-Loup is usually a cocktail of Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre and Carignan.)
I bought Vinho Regional Estremadura - Fernão Pires (white grape variety) 2007 – Quinta de Bons-Ventos – on an experimental impulse to accompany mussels and it was delicious showing a lovely floral nose with strong notes of fresh muscat grapes and oriental spice and a round grapey and spicy palate balanced by zippy acidity; quite unlike any other European whites and I shall buy more, especially considering the excellent QPR (< € 5); 15.5/20+.