WTN: 2004 Heidler Gruner Veltliner

[Jenise]

2004 Heidler Gruner Veltliner
Kamptal, Austria $21

This is one of the best young Gru Vee I've had. Full-bodied but not heavy, it has that wonderful minerally nose with notes of green pea, parsley and lettuce along with the fruity-but-not-sweet promise of a just-peeled green banana. On the mid-palate, lemon and sea shells and on the finish, as much white pepper as I've encountered in any white wine in recent memory. All of that's built on near-perfect acidity. There's so much going on that you're encouraged to slip very, very slowly for fear of missing something. Drinks well now, but this one will reward holding.

[Karol Slisinski]

Are you sure that this is Heidler? Maybe Hiedler? Weingut Hiedler is one of the best wineries in Langenlois (Kamptal), Austria.

[Jenise]

Karol, you're right. 'I' before 'e'. Hiedler. Loved this wine. And welcome to the forum, I don't recall seeing your name before.

[Jeff Grossman/NYC]

I had some Hiedler 2002 Riesling "Steinhaus" that was just splendid. I was introduced to it at the Slanted Door by none other than our friendly host and sommelier, Mark Ellenbogen.

[David M. Bueker]

My first Hiedler wines go back to the 1997s. The Gruner Veltliner 'Maximum' from '97 is still delicious today. I don't seem to buy much Hiedler (I buy more Hirsch), but I think the Hiedler Gruner Veltliner Thal is one of the best/best value GruVees on the market for ageable, complex white wine.

[Jenise]

Jeff said:

I was introduced to it at the Slanted Door

Ah, the famous SD wine list strikes again. Must get back there, and hopefully next time with someone like Stuart or Hoke (or you!) around to make sure I get the royal treatment.

David said:

the Hiedler Gruner Veltliner Thal is one of the best/best value GruVees on the market for ageable, complex white wine.

Thanks for the confirmation. And you remind me to seek out more of the Hirsch--not the Veltliner #1 but something above that, priced around $17. We had it a few months ago with a Vietnames pho style dish topped with beef carpaccio and a spicy cabbage slaw seasoned with fish sauce. The match with the Hirsch was stunning. I know it was every bit as good as this Hiedler was, but I've not seen it around since.