I have revived the notes below because they record the heights which Loire Cabernet franc can reach.
Topic: TN: An impressive vertical of
Chinon from
Charles JoguetAuthor: Tim York
Date: 20050427114656
This tasting was a revelation. Having bought a number of Joguet’s wines of the 1995 and 1996 vintages directly from the estate (the best of which are probably not yet at their peak) as well as Chinon of other producers such as Alliet, Couly-Dutheil and Baudry, I have rated Chinon as usually very satisfying but did not realise that it was capable of reaching the heights of, say, a really good Margaux or St. Julien. The form shown last night by the wines from the good vintages of the 80s demonstrates that they can indeed be well up to this level when mature. And the prices are sensible; EUR 18,60 for Chêne Vert 2002 and EUR 21,65 for Dioterie 2003 in Belgium which represents far better QPR than any Bordeaux and Burgundy in the same price range known to me.
Allowing for the usual vintage variation, the wines all showed great purity of fruit and aroma allied to good structure, great elegance and, in most vintages, length. This is undoubtedly helped by a sparing approach to wood ageing (no new oak only barrels of one wine up to five). The “brett” sensitive are, however, warned than there are sometimes leather and “animal” hints to which they may be allergic.
It is usually said that the Joguet estate went through a bad patch from the mid-90s to the end of the decade following the transfer of the business from Charles Joguet to the present triumvirate of Jacques Genet, Michel Pinard and Alain Delaunay. There was scant evidence of that from the 95 and 99 tasted last night and I still feel that my 96s could open up to rival or surpass, say, the 88.
Joguet makes separate cuvées from each significant vineyard parcel as well as basic cuvées of Chinon red and rosé. The estate also makes a white from Chenin grown just outside the limits of the Chinon Appellation. Full details of the wines and production methods can be found on
http://www.charlesjoguet.com .
All the wines tasted were from the Chinon appellation and 100% derived from Cabernet Franc.
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Cuvée de la Cure 2004. (Vineyards situated on alluvial gravel planted in the 70s). A barrel sample as an appetiser to demonstrate the fine form of the 2004 vintage. C: Deep. N: Dark plum fruit. P: Similar aroma with plenty substance and tannic structure. Very good balance of acid, flesh and structure. 14/20 with more potential.
Then followed a vertical of
Clos du Chêne Vert. This is a 2 hectare vineyard with a south-westerly exposure situated on calcareous clay; the vines were planted in the mid-70s.
- 1985. C: Brilliant red but quite light with little sign of browning at the rim.
Glories were revealed on the first inhalation. N: Complex deep dark fruit with
hints of pencil shavings, tobacco and aromas of strawberry and raspberry.
P: Medium weight but elegant and very long with the same delicately flavoured aromas as on N. Fully resolved tannic structure with leather hints on finish. Really lovely. 18.5/20.
- 1988. C: More amber hints. N: Delicately floral with hints of fine Darjeeling
tea. P: Lighter and less perfectly balanced than 1985 with more prominent acidity. Lovely delicate aromatics. Hints of dryness on finish. Long. 17/20.
- 1990. C: Much deeper and younger. N: Fleshier and sweeter than the two
previous. P: Much rounder and fuller with dark fruit aromatics but less
elegant than the two previous with hints of coarseness on the finish and
perhaps a little shorter. 17/20.
- 1989. C: Perhaps even deeper than 90. N: A different dimension of
complexity from 1990. Similar aromas to 1985 but more power and flesh with pencil shavings less marked. P: Deep, finely bodied, complex, elegant and very long; but still perhaps a touch a green on the finish. 18.5/20 with perhaps still potential for more.
- 1995. N: A step down. Rich dark fruit but less complexity of aroma and green
hints. P: Good flesh and substance with nice dark fruit aromas and hints of leather. Marked structure of dry tannins. Quite long but (in common with many reds in France in 1995) a drying finish. Will this dry out or will the tannic structure resolve into harmony somewhat like, say, the 1988? Meanwhile 16/20.
- 1999. N: Quite simple but attractive fruit but with poultry yard hints. P: Softly
fruity and less complex and structured than the previous vintages but very pleasant. A good effort for a modest vintage. 15/20.
- 2002 (first bottle). N: More complex and finer than previous but a sour hint and faint stink (not TCA). N: Aromas showing some finesse and class but angular and lean fruit and structure with slightly sour and dry finish. Immediately there was an outcry that we had an off bottle. I wasn’t so sure because I have met other 2002s with angular and slightly dry tannins.
- 2002 (second bottle). N: Smoother and more suave without the sour hint and faint stink of the previous. P: More flesh, more fruit, rounder tannins and altogether silkier. In fact potentially very fine. 16/20 now; potentially 18+/20?
For comparison we now looked at three vintages of
Clos de la Dioterie. This vineyard is also planted on calcareous clay but is North facing; its vines are mainly more than 80 years old.
- 1986. N: Fine delicate aromas of raspberry and strawberry with pencil
notes. P: Same lovely fragrances with, to me, an attractive mineral acid freshness (others incriminated VA). Lighter and shorter than some of the other and adequate structure. A good result for a cold vintage. 16/20.
- 2003. C: Almost black like Languedoc or even Australia. N: Deep, dark
aromas but some Cabernet Franc coming through on aeration. P: Likewise deep, dark and full with dark brooding but ripe tannins and some alcoholic warmth showing on finish. Yet there was also freshness and adequate acidity for balance coming through. None of the crowd pleasing candied sweetness of a lot of 97s. This could turn into a sumptuous if atypical wine. 15.5/20 now with ++ potential.
- 2004 (barrel sample). C: Deep but more luminous than 2003. N: Rich dark
yeasty stink. P: Enormously impressive. Big but more harmonious, more typical and less muscle bound than 2003. Great potential.
It looks as if 2002, 2003 and 2004 are going to prove an impressive trilogy for Loire reds. Sadly only 2002 is likely to prove great for the Chenin based whites; the 2003 heat turned out mostly flabby wines in dry and demi-sec ranges and 2004 has suffered from widespread rot.