Open Mike: Cabernet Franc.

All the recent discussions here regarding Cab Franc (and blends thereof) and the fact that I have not paid enough attention to this noble grape variety, makes me think we should attempt to see whats out there?
Eastern USA, Canada appear to be making great strides but one should not forget S Africa, Washington, Loire Valley and of course California.
There has to be some really good Cab Francs out there so hows about we take a looksie and see what we can come up with!

Myself, I am keen to try the Chatter Creek from Washington and Sandhill of the Okanagan seems to have a nice effort. Tim York can possibly guide us with wines he can find in Belgium and I hope Dale might be interested. He seems to have a love-affair with Chinon and surrounding area!!

Good luck, hope for some imput!!

[James Roscoe]

Well done Bob. This was the subject of last June's NiagaraCool. Perhaps someone more savy than myself might link to some of the fine reports from that festive occassion. In the meantime, I will have to pull one of Virginia's fine examples.

Hey Bob,

I had a 2004 Stratus Cab Franc (Ontario) back in August. Here are my brief notes:

Ripe red berries and cherries on the nose and palate, with none of the green flavours often associated with Cab Franc. Over time, it began to develop the smell and taste of coffee.

I have an '05 Hillside Estate from our visit to the Okanagan. It's young, but I maybe I'll give it a try this week. The Cab Franc was the only wine we liked in their tasting room.

Nicely Done Bob. I'm in.

Well done Bob. This was the subject of last June's NiagaraCool. Perhaps someone more savy than myself might link to some of the fine reports from that festive occassion. In the meantime, I will have to pull one of Virginia's fine examples.

Here's a link:
http://www.wineloverspage.com/forum/village/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=9178&p=74529

Have not opened the bottle, but I enjoyed the taste quite a bit: 2003 Sebastien Bobinet "Amateus" Bobi 2003. Loire Valley, France Natural organic/biodynamic wine. Imported by "Jenny & Francois." Picked up at my new Mecca, Terroir Wine Bar, Folsom east of Seventh, San Francisco.

I know it was the hot as hell year, and this wine may lack typicite (no raw bell pepper) and there may be some oak here, but this was a delicious explosion of blackberry fruit, savory notes, good acidity (even in 2003). The oak was definitely there, but it seemed to support the wine, providing structure, not vanilla.

This could actually be a ringer in a tasting of very good, more savory, Napa Cab Francs. Except-there is that mouthwatering acidity on the front and mid plalate. Yum. Not cheap, though (30s)

Well that seems like a nice start, thanks for the enthusiasm everyone! I would really like to get the feel for this grape variety, I too remember the green pepper of wines tasted years gone-by!! Of course there is more to it than this so look forward to the TNs coming up.

Thanks for the link Howie.The home-made sounds a treat!!
Brian, I did a google for good CF producers in California and there is quite a list...Lang and Reed, Cafaro, Carmenet, Chappellet, Ballentine seem to feature. No doubt, you can point us in the right direction!

I will happily make an effort to seek out something like a Chinon, good place here in town to look! I also understand that Friuli can produce some acceptable cab franc?

Before I get stuck into Saumur-Champigny, Chinon, Bougueil and Saint-Nicolas de Bougueil, which are plentiful round here and even in my cellar, here is an old WTN on two Cab francs from other parts of the world, more of the likes of which I will have to struggle to find.



Topic: TN: Ugh! Cabernet Franc from Joseph Swan and another better.
Author: Tim York
Date: Thu Mar 22 13:07:49 2001
Reposted with "TN"

Joseph Swan Cabernet Franc Russian River Valley - 1996

C: Deep but slightly opaque with some non-settled sediment.
N: Strong slightly synthetic raspberry jam (supermarket''s own brand not a quality manufacture ).
P: Full and rich seeming with similar strong synthetic raspberry aromas to N on attack with a soft centre reminiscent of over-ripe mango completed with a touch of soap. Little acidity and soggy tanins.

I didn''t know that it was possible to make a product so overblown and synthetic tasting out of Cabernet Franc which gives such deliciously zestful yet elegant wines in good years in Touraine and Anjou as well as Cheval Blanc, of course, an absolute summit. Curiously over-oaking ,a frequent problem in "modern" wines, was not apparent here.
Is this an aberration or is there a market for this sort product more redolent of the sweet-shop than the winery?

In order to replace this bottle, which I couldn''t finish, and to restore my faith in Cabernet Franc from outside France, I then opened -

Russiz Superiore Cabernet Franc Collio DOC - 1997

C: Deep
N: Subdued at first with slight herbaceous notes typical of CabFranc overlaying red fruit with cassis notes. 48 hours later the N was much more open and integrated with the herbaceous note hardly apparent except as an element of zest.
P: Somewhat closed and a little short at first but a lot more frank, honest and better balanced with acid and structure than the Joseph Swan. 48 hours later much more open and longer with discreet fresh red fruit fragrance and excellent balance and structure. Warmer and fuller than a Loire Cabernet Franc but still keeping the most of the zest and elegance with an added generosity. 48 hours under vacu-vin for a half full bottle did wonders.

A few months ago I also enjoyed an excellent Cabernet Franc from South African Warwick estates 1996 vintage. A bit more generous and a little less elegant perhaps than the Russiz Superiore but still infinitely better balanced, IMHO, than the Joseph Swan.

From my neck of the woods, here are a few other producers who I have tasted and enjoyed. I've not actually tried some of the "name" producers, though, so these are somewhat obscure:

William Harrison (Rutherford, Napa Valley)-Their Cab Franc, while definitely showing some oak and California alcohol, also has very nice dark fruit and a distinctive "cedary" flavor profile that I really like. Tiny producer, though-basically five acres of Estate grapes plus some Chardonnay sourced from Carneros

Napa Redwoods Estate: From high above Napa Valley in the Mount Veeder area, a quite elegant, if brawny, Cab Franc with again that darker fruit profile (blackberry, cedar, earth).

Vinoce I disagree with the Cellartracker comments on this one. Following the theme above, cedary, black fruit, some oak, quite high toned with good acid.

One of my favourites was enjoyed in Kelowna at Fresco Restaurant. We were celebrating an anniversary and the waiter suggested the Burrowing Owl Cab Franc (forget the vintage) to go with the lamb entrees we were both having. I had limited experience with this varietal, and thought it would be too light for the dish, but I was wrong. The wine was big, bold fruity and round, and went perfectly with the lamb. I have a bottle in the cellar, and should try it again.

Greg

Bob,
For those who enjoy Chinon, Bernard Baudry said the 2005 vintage was the best he has ever seem chez Baudry. And after trying the Croix Boissee of that vintage, I would not argue the point.
Further, the Breton, Beaumont from 2005 seems to confirm the quality of the harvest.
I need to start picking up some of the lower priced models from 2005 for more current drinking.
Best, Jim

For those who enjoy Chinon, Bernard Baudry said the 2005 vintage was the best he has ever seem chez Baudry.

Jim, I hear so much about Baudry on this forum, I know I am missing out on something!

Greg, I think Sandhill picks the grapes Burrowing Owl leave behind, according to one of the staff at Wines and Spirits on Jasper? Am gonna email them.

Warwick,Raats and Zorgvliet are to be looked out for according to Keith Protheroe, who lives in S Africa part of the year.

Lang & Reed North Coast Cabernet Franc 2006
I had the chance to taste this wine again at the Michael Skurnik portfolio tasting in New York last August. It had been a couple of vintages since it last touched my lips and I fell in love with it all over again (good because I'd been ready to write off CA Cabernet Franc.) In honour of this thread, I opened it and big brother today.

It really is like the ripest freakin' Chinon you could ask for. Medium bodied, but plush and juicy with just enough acidity to hold its course. Cherry and cranberry fruit, tobacco, and roasted bell pepper. Quite good if missing only a little tar and cabbage from warm vintage Chinon. This is my favorite from the new world (I like Smith Wooten too.)
14,5% alc. $23

Lang & Reed Napa Valley Cabernet Franc 'Premier Etage' 2002
The extra oak, bottle age, and overall 'Napaness' are very center stage, but it isn't without its charms. A more plump and sultry wine showing darker black cherry, red currant, cacao, cigar, white pepper and hickory liquid smoke. Much more 'Cabaret show' than the basic bottling. 14,5% alc, $40

Waters Crest 2004 Reserve Cabernet Franc- North Fork Long Island
Only 130 cases made, this wine was produced from 100% free-run Cab Franc and aged for 14 months in new French oak barrels.
In appearance the wine has a deep, dark, rich garnet color due to an extended maceration.
The aroma and bouquet is fairly complex, black fruit and berries seem to jump out of the glass quickly, mingles nicely with layers of black pepper, spice with a hint of smoked meat, dirt, and cocoa right behind it. Ditto on the palate. Good structure and balance. Medium-bodied wine but yet at the same time mouth-filling. The after-taste is pleasant and lingering. (Score 17.5/20) $35
The lamb chops, baked potatoes, and green beans we had for dinner tonight seemed to be a nice match for this wine. (I recommend decanting this wine before serving)

Salute

Bourgueil AOC “Le Grand Clos” 2002 – Yannick Amirault – Alc. 12.5% (€ 13 for 2006).

C: Medium depth and transparent.
N: Subdued at first but nice fresh red fruit then coming up.
P: Seemed light and a little thinly fruity with a faint bitterness on the finish at first but after a few minutes the fruit filled out, deepened somewhat, became better focused and the bitterness was masked; there was typical Loire freshness and minerality together with a less typical cherry hint in the fruit. This is a very nice, even rather elegant, glugging wine but neither very complex nor deep; 14.5/20.

Yannick Amirault is regarded by many as the leading grower in Bourgueil. He is aiming for a riper and earlier drinking style than traditional in the region. Don’t look here for animal aromas, which IMHO add complexity and depth to a lot of Loire Cab franc. Amirault goes for squeaky clean and looked at me askance when I expressed admiration his ripe and leathery Bourgueil “Les Quartiers” 1997; “that was a mistake” he said.

Contrary to the impression given by its name, “Le Grand Clos” is Amirault’s entry level Bougueil. Again somewhat paradoxically, “Petite Cave” is the most ambitious cuvée. There are good cuvées from Saint-Nicolas de Bourgueil, as well. 2002 was a great year for dry Chenin blanc and merely good for Cabernet franc with wines in a traditionally Loire fresh vein with some under-ripe cuvées and green tannins from lesser producers.

Here is the link to Amirault’s website - http://www.yannickamirault.fr/


BTW I have discovered a couple of bottles of an unusual Cab franc from the beautiful Vignamaggio estate in Chianti country. This is a good excuse to open one.

My goodness, who would have thought this Open Mike would create so much interest!! Great notes from everyone and quite an insight now. Keep `em coming..!!

Tim,or anyone? Have found a Sancerre from Domaine Vacheron and salesperson tells me it is CF. Any thoughts?

Cheers from a minus 40 here in central Alberta..that blasted pine beetle is going to get it eh. These temps should knock this pest off.

Tim,or anyone? Have found a Sancerre from Domaine Vacheron and salesperson tells me it is CF. Any thoughts?

If it's called "Sancerre" and it's red, it is supposed to be Pinot Noir. According to my reference books the Vacheron estate has 11 hectares of Pinot Noir and 32 of Sauvignon; no mention of CF. I think that your salesperson is talking cr*p.

Thanks Tim. I thought that was wrong too.
Google did not confirm CF but talks about PN.

I had two (well one was a blend) this week so I'll play.

2002 Catherine et Pierre Breton Bourgueil Clos Sénéchal
In a very nice place right now, the flavors have unwound quite a bit sine the last time I tried it a year and a half ago. Red raspberry fruit with a big mineral edge. This bottle had just a little Brett, more cinnamon clove than barnyard, which I found very enjoyable. Bright tart acidity with moderate tannin structure. Not the ideal match with chicken tamales, but the chicken wasn't too spicy and the wine was very good, so it worked somehow. The label states 11.7% abv, which is amazing to me. The fruit seemed perfectly ripe and there were no green or vegetal flavors.



2001 Serafini & Vidotto Phigaia After the Red

This is a blend of Cab Franc and Merlot from the Veneto. Contrary to the Breton, this was full of green flavors, ranging the spectrum from bell pepper to spicy tobacco leaf. Also this was better than the last time I tried it over two years ago as the oak flavors are now much more integrated. In the mouth the merlot shows up with tart black plum flavors. This had highish acidity, and the tannins were pretty soft. It was a good match with a mushroom and green pepper pizza. I think this wine is at a plateau right now. 12.5% abv.

Couple of lowish % alc there Marc? I am really missing out on reds from Chinon and Bourgueil so love your note. Cheers.

Found this,might be of interest to some.............http://wine.appellationamerica.com/grap ... Franc.html

2002 Catherine et Pierre Breton Bourgueil Clos Sénéchal
In a very nice place right now, the flavors have unwound quite a bit sine the last time I tried it a year and a half ago. Red raspberry fruit with a big mineral edge. This bottle had just a little Brett, more cinnamon clove than barnyard, which I found very enjoyable. Bright tart acidity with moderate tannin structure. Not the ideal match with chicken tamales, but the chicken wasn't too spicy and the wine was very good, so it worked somehow. The label states 11.7% abv, which is amazing to me. The fruit seemed perfectly ripe and there were no green or vegetal flavors.

This sounds a lot more interesting than my Amirault Grand Clos 02. He should relax and let in a little brett and his wines would gain a dimension.

OK, I'll add a few CF impressions from the last few months (all originally $15-$20 ish):

2001 Cabernet Franc, Lailey Vineyards, NIagara Peninsula VQA: Fairly dark, light bricking. Mid-weight with some plummy/pruney fruit, tobacco leaf and only a touch of bell pepper. Holding together pretty well, still shows some Bretty/poop notes that were also present on release. A decent effort.

2001 Cabernet Franc, Hazlett Vineyards, Finger Lakes: If you wanted to show that the Finger Lakes can produce a good red wine, this would be a nice example. Still very dark and youthful with a purple tinge. Some currant and herbs on the nose with maybe a touch of funk. More dark fruits (current/blueberry), no rough edges or green notes, nice dusty ripe tannins. Some cocoa emerges with time. Would be interesting to taste in another 5 years. Two odd things: no signature CF notes (e.g. bell pepper) and not a producer that I expect to produce a wine like this. Hazlett seems to do most of their business selling sweet red 'hot tub' wines to drunken crowds emerging from white stretch limos. They have some good vineyards and I wish more of their wines could be like this one.

2005 Bourgueil les Galichets, C et P Breton: Another inky dard red, somewhat cloudy. First tobacco, then fund and finally some bell pepper on the nose. Seems extracted, with black current , more tobacco, forrest floor notes on the palate. Green pepper becomes more noticeable as the wine airs. Some grainy tannins, earthy and rustic, but certainly CF. Maybe needs a bit of time to settle down.

WTN: `03 Cabernet Franc Alder Ridge Vineyard, Chatter Creek Columbia Valley Washington.

Small garage-type operation, last year I posted on an excellent Syrah.
Good natural cork, 13.7% alc, opened and decanted for one hour. No sediment noted, $26 Cdn.

C. Medium garnet, starting to show some light orange on rim. Thinnish intense centre.

N. Quite big aromas fill the room initially. Slight hints of tea and green pepper but nice cherry and herbs. Interesting to see what developes overnight.

P. Initial mouthfeel entry is tangy, smooth, soft tannins, juicy acidity.
Lengthy finish which gets more refreshing. Vibrant blackberry and later some blueberry. Plum here after 3 hrs when it really shows its stuff! Not sure how typical this one is but it ain`t green, has no green pepper/vegetative tones! Its very nice and great with Mancheqo cheese from Portugal. Am I supposed to find jalopena peppers here?
Will see what happens overnight but good start for me in my CF quest!!

2001 Cabernet Franc, Hazlett Vineyards, Finger Lakes: If you wanted to show that the Finger Lakes can produce a good red wine, this would be a nice example. Still very dark and youthful with a purple tinge. Some currant and herbs on the nose with maybe a touch of funk. More dark fruits (current/blueberry), no rough edges or green notes, nice dusty ripe tannins. Some cocoa emerges with time. Would be interesting to taste in another 5 years. Two odd things: no signature CF notes (e.g. bell pepper) and not a producer that I expect to produce a wine like this. Hazlett seems to do most of their business selling sweet red 'hot tub' wines to drunken crowds emerging from white stretch limos. They have some good vineyards and I wish more of their wines could be like this one.

Holy Cow Batman. This may be the first postitive TN I have ever seen for a Hazlett wine.